Jump to content
SAU Community

Aircon Regassers In Melbourne That Use Hychill Hr12 Gas


Recommended Posts

not that much work to "convert" to HR12 unless the car has already been converted to R134a. if the car still has the old R12 gas in it, then it just needs to be tested etc. Degassed and regassed with HR12.

Ill have a quick guess at around $300 mark?

Someome correct me if im wrong please

hahah, tow car... you make it sound like something normal! should get the plates, A380 or something - if it's the massive beast i'm thinking of...

did you go with Hychill refill??

Hey,

Haven't seen this before.

I've had my R32 GTR for 5 years now and have never had air con.

It was never gassed since it came over.

Where around croydon or ringwood does this regassing with hychill?

I also have got to get the pulley bearings looked at as they are very noisy.

Any suggestions on where to go?

Hey,

Haven't seen this before.

I've had my R32 GTR for 5 years now and have never had air con.

It was never gassed since it came over.

Where around croydon or ringwood does this regassing with hychill?

I also have got to get the pulley bearings looked at as they are very noisy.

Any suggestions on where to go?

Hey.

The gas were talking bout is known as either Hychill or HR12.

A lot of A/C places will try to talk you out of it cos they dont know much about it themselves or have had too much R134a crap thrown at them to know any better. HR12 is essentially a natural refrigerant replacement for the old R12 systems that we have in R32's.

The HR12 works a lot better then the R134a stuff. Enough for you to cool a can in front of your air vent! it also wont corrode your A/C system like R134a does.

Sorry i dunno any places around your area that knows their stuff. I think my brother mentioned that his mechanic has it. ill find out soon.

Good luck finding a place.

I didnt really get a chance to talk to ya at the midnight cruise apart from trying to figure out where we were!. will hafta talk properly next time.

Hey.

The gas were talking bout is known as either Hychill or HR12.

A lot of A/C places will try to talk you out of it cos they dont know much about it themselves or have had too much R134a crap thrown at them to know any better. HR12 is essentially a natural refrigerant replacement for the old R12 systems that we have in R32's.

The HR12 works a lot better then the R134a stuff. Enough for you to cool a can in front of your air vent! it also wont corrode your A/C system like R134a does.

Sorry i dunno any places around your area that knows their stuff. I think my brother mentioned that his mechanic has it. ill find out soon.

Good luck finding a place.

I didnt really get a chance to talk to ya at the midnight cruise apart from trying to figure out where we were!. will hafta talk properly next time.

Yeah cool, will have to chat next cruise.

If you could find out where a good place is that can do my air con let me know.

I dont mind a drive, if it gets done properly.

Cheers.

hahah, tow car... you make it sound like something normal! should get the plates, A380 or something - if it's the massive beast i'm thinking of...

did you go with Hychill refill??

the two most reputable people is spoke to talked me out of it..... gave me the option but i ended up going R134 :happy:

Stupid A380 needed new hoses, TX valve and receiver drier been open for too long.... i wanted the a/c to be perfect so took to anything that could be suspect... lucky the conversion used xf falcon gear so its only the hoses (20ft of hose :D ) that is dear.

Attached a pic of what it should look like once finished. 10 stud FTW

post-34927-1257941082_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS

As stated in an earlier post (although in 2008 lol), JNK Auto does HyChill...

I just called them up now and spoke to Tim. What a champ, he spent like 20mins chatting to me about it explaining it all. Good thing was he was honest and said he is still acquiring his licence to do ac gassing and he doesn't personally do it, his boss does (John). Shows to me he's pretty clued up even though he doesn't personally do it.

Anyway, I'm book in for next week. Their contact number is 9873 2622, located in Mitcham.

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Quoted $132 GST inclusive for the full works (i.e. full flush, lube and dye, and recharge etc.).

Edited by AnDyStYLe
As stated in an earlier post (although in 2008 lol), JNK Auto does HyChill...

I just called them up now and spoke to Tim. What a champ, he spent like 20mins chatting to me about it explaining it all. Good thing was he was honest and said he is still acquiring his licence to do ac gassing and he doesn't personally do it, his boss does (John). Shows to me he's pretty clued up even though he doesn't personally do it.

Anyway, I'm book in for next week. Their contact number is 9873 2622, located in Mitcham.

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Quoted $132 GST inclusive for the full works (i.e. full flush, lube and dye, and recharge etc.).

Excellent mate.

Will give them a call for sure. Thanks.

Ok guys, doing the whole works including fault testing, full flush, change of receiver dryer, and gass fill...

John mentioned that they is not point doing the full works if you don't change the receiver dryer as it acts as a filter. All up if all goes well it'll actually be about the $220 mark!!!

The lubricate they'll be using is Wurth Ester Oil with U/V Dye (http://www.wurth.com.au/catalogueview.asp?pdf=A04_0601.pdf). Just done some research and found positive reviews. Better than PAG oil.

Will keep you all posted...

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Ok, now found that POE = POE Polyolester (type of oil for A/C) according to acronyms.thefreedictionary.com, so if I'm not wrong that means the Wurth Ester Oil with U/V Dye is POE which is what level323 recommends. Hope that's the case!

Edit #2: Found the MSDS for the Wurth Ester Oil with U/V Dye - http://www.wurth.com.au/msds/1892_764_334.htm

Edited by AnDyStYLe

Ok boys, update...

Ran into issues with the a/c where we found out that the a/c compressor sh!t itself... My options where either to repair, replace brand new or second hand. 1. Repair was going to be like $500, 2. Brand new $1k :P , 3. Sourced my own second hand unit for $100 :(

So anyway, I picked up the compressor on Friday morning which we only found out this morning when the original one was removed to be replaced, it was the wrong one. Needed to go back to the wreckers to exchange for the correct one...

Anyway, to cut the long story short... John/Tim from JNK Auto sorted it all out today and has done an excellent job. I am bloody wrapped!!!

All up I spent $260 to JNK and $100 on the second hand compressor. I gotta say JNK looked after me pretty well and would recommend them for sure!

Unfortunately John wasn't too keen on a "group buy" as in his past experiences, many of the people in the "group buy" ruin it for the others by not turning up. John would prefer a individual case by case like mine.

Cheers,

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...