Jump to content
SAU Community

The Skyline and HP...... debate and comment (PLEASE NO MUD SLINGING)


Recommended Posts

Greg from Flatout karts GTiR ran a 1.4 60 footer at the plex with an exhaust change only but got to 3rd gear and the box broke.

GTRs and EVOs seem to be the only 4wds with a half decent gear box. Every time i run my GTiR i have every thing crossed hoping the box won't die even tho its the close ratio rally box.

R33s are to big to be a strip monster but they are a quickish car thats easy to live with and don't sound like water cooled VWs.

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Exactly DCIEVE...... consistancy.... the R33 all with similar mods seem to be over over the shop with times.... I would love to see quicker times out of R33 (my favorite line), hense the reason of the thread....

Does anyone know that the stock turbo can flow on the r33 (eg what is its CFM - Cubic Feet per Minute of flow)......

Daniel

hahahahah steve .....

GTiR are awesome cars, love these pulsars on steriods. Is the gearbox in them the limiting factor as well. Do they run the same sr20 motor as the s13/14/15. Dont they have a quad throttle body setup?

And Steve, some of prefer the lumpy sound of the water cooled VW's over the drony/hollow princes..... ;->

Daniel

The gearbox is very weak.I,m putting a modena box in it for next season.

The GTiR motor is an SR but has a lot better head and stronger con rods etc.My GTiR is a Dakar and ran 12.7 as a standard car with a good exhaust and a totally stuffed turbo that didn't last the first pass so it only went 20ks faster from 1/2 track to the end.

Jim richards Dakar ran 12.45.

Originally posted by rob77

got enough money together to replace the clutch and gearbox? ask denver (xrw) how many gearboxes he has chewed.

None actually..

I had the 3rd/4th gear cluster replaced to fix a crunchy syncro, and the current failure isn't the gearset at all..

a circlip that retains the centre diff has come askew and gone through the feed gears for the output shaft, taking the corner off two teeth on the output shaft gear, and ten or more corner off the feed gear..

the gearset itself has no missing teeth, just semi sad syncro's, oh and a loose nut on the end of the input shaft which was causing 5th to pop out all the time..

And that was over 2 years of giving it a hammering, and a fair slab of horse power through 4500rpm side step the clutch launches..

as for AWD taking the skill out, it doesn't, unless you know how to drive you won't get a quick time, be it drags or a motorkhana, you can be quicker than someone with 3 times the horsepower if they don't know how to peddle it to begin with..

when launching the awd makes it heaps easier, dial in revs and dump or slip it. a big power, heavy, rwd skyline on the other hand i imagine would be an absolute pain in the arse to launch. i guess this isnt really driver skill, just launching ability but its makes a huge difference at the strip. i never mentioned motorkhana's, which of course come down to driver ability more than anything else.

Rob, I know bugger all, but the whole WRX gearbox thing is so overdone (not starting a shitfight but its the same thing with LS1's and oil....). Dont listen to rumours..... :)

2 or 3 very close mates have wrx's in the 12's (one with a 12.1 and should go better with a decent drive) and not one of them has had gearbox problems. One drives his very hard, the other two drive normally.

Dan is right in saying that mod for mod WRX will probably get better times (but you cant compare apples to oranges).

I'm not biased in any way either. Both are awesome cars when set up right

Cheers

Mat

The only thing making a wrx fast is the 4wd launch, I think a rolling start between a wrx and a r33 would be interesting, stock ones. I think if I had the choice between a wrx and a GTR I'd take the GTR, with the r32 being quite cheap now and I've seen 95-97 r33's from $40k.

The guy who used to work at Fremantle Bob Janes (until it closed) had a WRX that ran 12.02..... and he was telling me he has been through 2 gearboxes in that thing.

They are still awesome cars. If you really want bang for buck you cant beat a 2 litre Silvia/180... Those things fly with FMIC, exhaust and boost control.... but lack the class of a line or WRX :)

Originally posted by Strich9ine

Ben,

was that WRX white ? with goodies like FMIC, stickers down the doors and a GT wing ?

if so, he now works at rocko bob jane :)

Yeah thats him. His names Brad. Hes from down Albany i think. Has had bunnies splatted in that FMIC hehe

Dan - you started the thread by saying that everyone seems to go for HP figures and not much else and asking what else people think should be done..

By saying upgrade the turbo and the ecu you're pretty much following the crowd.. which I thought the point of this thread was to throw some new ideas in?

Cam - i think the turbo is what MOST PEOPLE touch last. Out of all the R33 out there I bet less than 5% have modified/or complete aftermarket turbos. Most would be stock.

What I'm saying( and I may not be right, its just a opinion)... Is i would buy the Garret TURBO first (after full exhaust of course), and not waste my time on safc, ecbs, massive front mounts, etc. I would do zorst and turbo first then ecu. With those mods and putting a little boost and putting a cheap fuel regulator on (i think they can be had for < $150) you would be into the 12's easy (even on stock ecu) - if thats what you wanted, and some suspension parts and you also have a great handler as well as a straight line monster.

I think the biggest mistake is people are trying to overcomplicate things.

So my mod path would be...

1. full xzorts

2. garret turbo

3. fuel regulator (cheap way of leaning out fuel)

Daniel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...