Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

watched 2 fast 2 furious today. >_<

near the start of the movie when he first comes to race in the r34, as he drives through the pack of people he gives it revs or something and gas, steam or something comes out of the side of the car... i think it comes out of flutes in the guards or something.

i thought it was pretty cool.

NOW. does anyone know how its done or what creates this cool effect? is it something to do with releasing pressure in the atmosphere via turbo/turbos? and if its possible for it to be done with a wider range of vehicles? or is it just a movie thing....

and i know it would be illegal... :laughing-smiley-014:

cheers

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Heard a rumor of people using fire extinguishers as fake tanks with thier sytems and using CO2 mixed wit something. Heard watever it is strips your paint. Anyone come accross a wanker with something similar to this on thier car (hopes and prays its not on a skyline) >_< ??

i dont keep the bottle in the car at all for daily driving, only goes into the car when at a show for dyno and track use only.

it is defectable, and yes i know that.

touch wood nothing happens.

its a blue led light you can buy separatly for the effect, as it gets higher it looks like this :

it definatly draws a crowd!

if u watch this vid my car is in it within the forst 30 seconds, and shows the purge

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkeOdyVPpps

Edited by MissR34

fact 1: the fast and the furious is not a guide for modifying your car

fact 2: if you decide to go this route, be f*cking careful, its all well and good to see paul walked spray it over some chick and get 'the look' from her, but reality dictates that nitrous oxide can cause cold burns (i think lol)

don't ever nitro purge near someone who's smoking :)

its more wank than anything else as portrayed in the movie... betcha half the muppets that run the system after watching that movie don't even realise its to get the air out of the lines. Cos you know... running a nitro purge for more than a couple of seconds really is pointless. the air's out of the lines... now get the f**k on with it and stop wasting the shit.

the other reason would be to relieve the pressure buildup from expanding nitrous stuck between the solenoid and the closed bottle after you use it on a run. if you don't relieve the lines the pressure can wreck your solenoids and connections in the long term. bet you don't see any cars in F&F venting after their runs.

its a blue led light you can buy separatly for the effect, as it gets higher it looks like this :

it definatly draws a crowd!

if u watch this vid my car is in it within the forst 30 seconds, and shows the purge

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkeOdyVPpps

thats a really cool effect, it looks alot better than large amounts of it comming out the side like in the movie

can also make i giggly and sleepy :)

Screw date rape drugs, just nitrous purge the chick for a minute until she starts passing out :(

I have a nitrous bottle sitting in my room, so tempting to get it refilled and install it in the skyline, hmm maybe one day.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...