Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What motivates me the most is looking at other people who are more physically developed, fit, muscled and chiseled. I then use this drive, determination, and want as my motivation.

I set my self certain goals to achieve which never ends, this is how i get by my gym routine for the past 7 years i've been working out.

Say i achieve my goal, i set my self another one to next level up. I work hard to get to that goal and once i think i've reach that goal, i look at my body in place which would need improving.. it's a never ending pattern.

Another great motivational tool is listening to others around you envy your fit athletic body, getting endless compliments.. to be honest, it feeds my ego hahahaha. It makes me feel superior and the girls love a rock hard athletic body wanting a bit of touch and feel of you.

Edited by Barbarian
from what I've read so far, it's best to do really hard excercise for say an hour a day to increase base metabolism whilst modifying diet accordingly?

exactly mate.

focus on doing difficult movements. the ones that take the most out of you.

example - heavy squats.

it uses heaps more energy and muscle groups than bicep curls.

get your workout done within an hour or 45 minutes.

then just eat like a horse and sleep.

it's that simple.

simple on paper (or pixels in this case) but very hard to do.

Google "starting strength" and read up on that.

it seems simple.

Monday

squat 3 sets of 5 reps

Bench 3 sets of 5 reps

deadlift 1 set of 5 reps

Wednesday

Squat 3 sets of 5 reps

Standing Overhead press 3 sets of 5 reps

Power cleans 5 sets of 3 reps

Friday = same as Monday

easy yeah?

try it.

each time you can get the number of reps for the number of sets, you make note to increase the weight next time.

so if you did 3 x 5 squats with 60kg on Monday, wednesday you try for 3x5 of 62.5kg or 65kg if it was really easy on Monday

etc.

to work out what you should start at, get under the bar and keep doing sets of 5 reps of squats and increasing the weight each set.

when you get to the point where you can't get the 5th rep, go back to the weight you were using 2 sets ago and make that the starting weight for that exercise.

same for the other movements.

and eat!

so to start the ball rolling on this, I'm going to need a gym membership aren't I

If you want, to start with you can get away without the gym membership if you haven't done anything in recent years and will be good to prepare the body for greater loads. So you can hit the gym and get greater value from it.

There are some simple movements that require little or no equipment that will start the ball rolling and then there is basic stretching. There is plenty of info around on some of these movements and I am sure some of the guys on here can suggest some too. One thing to address early that is essential to developing more muslce is range of motion (ROM).

Sometimes the job and lifestyle can lead to a big lack of flexibillity.

If you sit at a desk alot then the hips, lower & upper back, shoulders and hamstrings will most likely need a little work to get to a point where you have sufficient ROM to perform excersises without issues. There are some minimums you want to get sorted in that regard before you jump into any heavy compound routine or really any routine. Not being able to touch your toes is a good sign you need to get some daily stretching in 'before' you go nuts. If you can't touch your toes then squats, deadlifts and a bunch of other things are out for you till you can. A basic stretch between sets is a good idea and certainly during the week to offset the reactions the muscles have in terms of swelling and the resultant reduction of ROM but, if you can't touch your toes you are going to be going backwards or get injured when the spine is taking up the slack.

Easy to get started. Find some stretches for hips, back, legs and whatever else you are going to train that need some basic ROM help. Set goals such as 'touch you toes' and do a few stretches every day / second day to get there. Shouldn't take long. You might find however that if you have had a desk job for many years you will need a session at a physio to get the knotted muscles relaxed (prepare for some pain). It won't be unusual to find everything from your rotator cuff to the calf muscles are knotted up if you have had the classic sit at a computer job.

Excersise wise, things like squats and deads can be performed without any weight or with light loads from around the house when you start out, it will develop you and help with form training and give the slow developing skelatal and nervous systems time to prepare for the faster developing muscles it has to support when you go harder. Variations of simple things like pushups can provide loads equivalent to gym based excersises. For example, doing push ups with your feet up on a wall, you can vary the angle to increase the force all the way to hand stand ones (impress your friends and you WILL have shoulders that indicate you can do this). You can do chin ups with a pergola, chuck a towel over the cross beam to prevent splinters etc. Lots of stuff to do and I reckon there might be a bunch of movements the guys on here can suggest also.

Later, even if the money runs out for the gym , you can train at home even up to a fairly advanced level with some plyometric movements that require little or no weight but, will apply forces of the same magnitude as weight loaded bars. Like anything caution to good form and rest is required. The bonus with these is you develop muscle speed. I do a cycle every once in a while.

Before having a good go at anything though you need to get someone to tell you or preferably show you how to perform things with good form, so you don't get hurt.

There are 'core control' and muscle control techniques which are a part of 'good form' which ideally should be mastered before you go silly on a variety of the big load compound movements. Things like scapular retraction (pulling the shoulder blades together , chest out), you need to develop control with this one, lots of movements require it to ensure safety and maximum efficiency. Good form will not only keep you safe from injury ( I haven't had a single one yet and have lifted pretty heavy) but, will ensure you extract the maximum from your lifts.

Hope that helps :D

Edited by rev210

thanks rev210, I'd seen some 25L water buckets around the house that I figure I could use at least to start off with (with varying amounts of water), I had assumed that good stretching would be integral to not being hurt - luckily I have not worked at an office job - my sedentary lifestyle has only been kicked off by unemployment - I can still touch my toes thank god, but starting off with stretches sounds like a good idea.

thanks rev210, I'd seen some 25L water buckets around the house that I figure I could use at least to start off with (with varying amounts of water), I had assumed that good stretching would be integral to not being hurt - luckily I have not worked at an office job - my sedentary lifestyle has only been kicked off by unemployment - I can still touch my toes thank god, but starting off with stretches sounds like a good idea.

The 25L buckets = upto 25kg when full of water so thats a pretty decent amount to get you going.

Face down and side facing bridges are good to throw in as stretches as well. Work up to being able to hold them for 3 - 5 minutes as a good base. If you can do that then you will have a starting step for the core control training and it's good for your lower back.

big work load

how long does that take you?

I'm not doing that program any more while pre-season is on as with the 3 nights of running a week, the 3 squat sessions take their toll, as do the deadlifts when you've already strained both hamstrings in the past.

But it took me about an hour when I was doing it.

Great thread chaps, it's been a really interesting read for me. There's obviously a lot of knowledge in this thread, so I'll explain my scenario and maybe you guys will have some good advice for me.

I play squash two or three times and week, and cricket a couple of times a week. I run a couple of times a week if i'm bored, but prefer to play sport than run if I can. I'm 6'6", and only weigh 88kg, so i'm lean.

For strength training, all I do is pushups, military presses, and situps.

What i'd like to do is improve the power in my legs to get that little extra court speed. A little extra strength never hurt either. I notice you guys all emphasise the importance of rest/recovery between sessions. I find it hard to fit weights routines in between sport, and so I don't think my body's getting adequate rest time. Can you suggest a way that i can improve my overall strength, most importantly leg strength, without compromising my sport performance too much?

On what days do you play what, and at what times during the day/night? If you can give us that information it'll better help us fit in a proper routine for you to do exercise. If you're getting inadequate rest days perhaps you should be doing your exercises on days when you play sport...then you have the next day to recouperate.

I know you prefer to play sport than run but for body speed IMO there's no better training than the motion itself. Static leg exercises will give you stronger leg muscles and it's better than nothing, but the motion of running is rather unique in the muscles and joints that it uses - this is what I think you should target. Perhaps try increasing the resistance of your running, i.e. fast sprints up hills and/or extra weight added on. Given your requirement for short agile movements (e.g. squash court), an emphasis on lots of short sprints is probably more ideal rather than long distance running.

Great thread chaps, it's been a really interesting read for me. There's obviously a lot of knowledge in this thread, so I'll explain my scenario and maybe you guys will have some good advice for me.

I play squash two or three times and week, and cricket a couple of times a week. I run a couple of times a week if i'm bored, but prefer to play sport than run if I can. I'm 6'6", and only weigh 88kg, so i'm lean.

For strength training, all I do is pushups, military presses, and situps.

What i'd like to do is improve the power in my legs to get that little extra court speed. A little extra strength never hurt either. I notice you guys all emphasise the importance of rest/recovery between sessions. I find it hard to fit weights routines in between sport, and so I don't think my body's getting adequate rest time. Can you suggest a way that i can improve my overall strength, most importantly leg strength, without compromising my sport performance too much?

small amount of plyometric training will be the go. There are excersises to look up that will get what you need around those specifics. Look up plyometrics. Hope that helps.

  • 2 weeks later...

I had another gut wrenching leg work out tonight, although my body could only tolerate a hard 160kg squat work out.

By the time i was finished i was perspiring in in the bucket loads, feeling dizzy, very pale and had this massive urge to vomit out... :)

Thought that's it, i've finished all my energy for tonight so head home. After i got home i took a nice dump and felt my body return back to normal.

Contemplating on going back again right now to finish off leg press, leg extension and calf workout

I've also begun cardio these days making sure i do a 2.5km jog before i head out of gym

trying to get my self into the mood by watching Johnnie Jackson

Edited by Barbarian

yeah..

and he did quarter depth squats, quarter depth leg presses, half arsed leg extentions with no 6 second holds up top (shock horror)

good genetics and but load of drugs do wonderful things don't they.

Why would you follow the routine of someone like Johnny Jackson?

do you have the muscularity that he has?

where doing isolation exercises might be of some use?

Do you also do your leg ext with that ROM?

and do you squat and leg press with that tiny ROM?

you'll do well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
×
×
  • Create New...