Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How is that going to help though, sure it means both sides are doing the same amount but it still means the left side is weaker and the right side is not being pushed as much. I might just have to start using my left arm for more things so it's getting used throughout the day more.

I'll add the planking for now, I'm not sure my back would enjoy reverse crunches at the moment with squats, deadlifts, and barbell rows putting some strain through it, it's pretty weak. Cheers for the ideas.

It will help, your right arm will get used to the reduced number of reps as it's working load and will become slightly weaker, bringing it down to your left arm strength whilst the latter catches up. It's like being able to push 100kg on bench and then dropping the weight to 80kg for a month...by the end of the month you'll struggle to do the 100kg that you used to.

When I was doing concentration curls, I used to do the extra set with my left arm to make up for the reps that I missed out on for the last set. It did even things up a bit, but you will never get it 100% even simply because you are not ambidextrous. Regarding your back issues, I'd be avoiding concentration curls, as even with good technique these exert a lot of pressure on your back - not terribly good for people trying to sort out back problems. Does your back ever feel sore afterwards? Standing hammer curls with a twisting motion are a good alternative - done strictly they should also have a slightly better range of motion.

I've since ditched the freeweights for my bicep curls, in favour of parallel floor pulleys...these keep things very even, my biceps are now close to the same strength. I've also seen better results in terms of strength/size from these than I did with the freeweights.

Question for the protein gurus...is there any harm in using a blender to mix up protein powders? I wouldn't have thought so, but I recently pondered if protein is better for you in slightly thicker/clumped form vs completely liquified...or if it didn't matter at all.

No back pain from concentration curls that I have found, back got tender a bit when building the weight on squats and SLDL and beginning to go ass to grass in the squats also + doing bent over barbell rows but I felt that was to be expected somewhat and it's not a compounding discomfort if you get me, it's gone before the next session.

I'm sure I make it sound very one sided. She doesn't like big muscly guys or the attitude that many of them have so I'm guessing she's reacting that way because she thinks that's where I'm headed back to.

Question for the protein gurus...is there any harm in using a blender to mix up protein powders? I wouldn't have thought so, but I recently pondered if protein is better for you in slightly thicker/clumped form vs completely liquified...or if it didn't matter at all.

I don't really see the logic behind this question, just mix it up however you want and drink it! Or eat it, I put it in my oats.

Oh and Dan, pics of gf?

Edited by Dani Boi

I know it sounds silly, but I'm no chemist, and I'm asking if how it's mixed in any way affects it's contents or what it's supposed to do. On that note, is there such a thing as diluting it too much, with too much milk or water?

LOL I think that's what she thinks goes on in here Nick, though she has met a few SAUers at DECA and that was all good, she gets along with the likes of Leon and Campbell just fine (even when tanked)so she's no nose up bitch. She's been by my side for 5 years and I'm not exactly the worlds finest specimen in many respects.

I was just taking the piss, she seems cool... I can't stand high maintenance women

seriously though, if obsessing about your appearance is the worst you do I'm sure she'll cope... you WILL cop shit though... my wife is constantly giving me shit for checking myself out in the mirror lol... its a little vain but so is checking out your car or taking pics and posting them etc

plus a lot of us solely rely on the mirror + pics to gauge progress... not many of us are rocking skin fold calipers, measuring tapes, scales etc

Believe me I know all about the shit you get if you are too vain, another reason I toned it down so much, that and growing up.

Sif post pics of unhappy GF in thread with you lot.

Attend DECAs etc, she comes to pretty much most of them when I go and will be in heaps of photos, though she won't be at this one sorry guys.

Birds I wondered that one before, but resolved myself to fact that the product would have specifics about mixing if it was detrimental to its effectiveness.

Edited by ActionDan

I know it sounds silly, but I'm no chemist, and I'm asking if how it's mixed in any way affects it's contents or what it's supposed to do. On that note, is there such a thing as diluting it too much, with too much milk or water?

I don't think it would effect it in anyway, but I'm only taking a guess here.

I have no idea how you do leg shit with no knees. kudos to you.

:)

awesome feeling doing freeweight angled leg press. Smashed legs today again, weights gave gone up for hamstring curls and leg extension. Doing the leg press in the Panatta rack is the hardest thing I've done at the gym; takes all my effort to push it up (knees start at my chest) and knock out some good sets, loving it! Best thing is I haven't had patella-tendon soreness afterwards whereas they'd be sore after cable leg press.

Finding it hard to end my sessions - just want to keep on going, energzer bunnylike.

Body is starting to respond to my 5x 90min workouts. Give me a few years, and........ :P

Question for the protein gurus...is there any harm in using a blender to mix up protein powders? I wouldn't have thought so, but I recently pondered if protein is better for you in slightly thicker/clumped form vs completely liquified...or if it didn't matter at all.

Funnily enough I've actually heard that you should just shake it up and drink it immediately... apparently blending it/letting it sit too long ruins the protein (just like you wouldn't mix it up then stick it in the fridge). Either way though protein is protein and if there is any difference it would be utterly minimal lol, as long as you're consuming heaps per day it shouldn't matter what way you do it.

In terms of evening out arm size and strength (biceps in particular), focus more on the compound movements that include bi's. Little bit of advice here, ditch the curls lol. So many people doing curls but not realising isolation movements don't build size and strength, they just tone and chisel the muscles (e.g. preacher curls will give you awesome biceps peaks, but they won't necessarily grow the muscles). If you want to increase the size of your biceps do all sorts of chin up variants, focusing on close and neutral grips. Stick to 8-12 reps when trying to increase hypertrophy, and 4-6 for strength. Add weight plates on a belt when your bodyweight becomes too easy to lift. Another thing you may/may not realise is that the size of your arms relies heavily on grip strength and forearm development. I guarantee most people will have a slightly bigger or stronger arm on their dominant side (duhh) because you use that arm daily to grip things. If you want to even out your arms, you have to even out your forearms and grip strength on both. By the way, focus on your triceps and your biceps will follow in growth... do weighted upright dips.

The whole reason I got into gym was from doing nothing but bicep curls with a set of dumbells when I was about 15...they definitely got bigger (it's funny how much people notice muscles when the rest of the muscles in your body are still small) and I definitely added plates to the dumbells over the period that I did them. Isolation can and does increase the size and strength of a particular muscle group!

I think there are too many people doing nothing but isolation movements, neglecting major compound movements and expecting their whole body to get big and wondering why they aren't packing on the kg. I have a friend who does 3 different exercises each for biceps and triceps, whilst the deadlifts and bench press are secondary for him...then bitches about weighing less than 70kg...he never listens though :/

ok been a few more weeks since ive started my strict diet...

first is 96 second is 92kg and 3rd pic is 91kg

I reckon theres a bit of difference, main thing i was worried about was losing muscle mass though i think ive managed to at least keep most of it

seems to be going well

post-47556-0-13391800-1330300833_thumb.jpg

post-47556-0-65711300-1330301016_thumb.jpg

post-47556-0-64748300-1330301058_thumb.jpg

Good work, though 1kg is marginal and can be the difference between dropping the kids off at the pool or skipping a meal, does look better in the second. How much more are you planning to lose? You will probably lose a tiny bit of muscle mass and strength, but not that much and it's definitely worth the trade off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...