Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

barbell and dumbell are two different things though.

I can lift heaps more (not that its much) on barbell then what I can with dumbells.

stabaliser muscles all come into effect with DBs and one arm can compensate for the other (to some degree) with BB. I also find that I go a lot lower with DBs then I do with a bar

That you can barbell flat bench 100kg or more for reps

Fair enough, easy assumption to make then. There's a few factors that contribute to it being "low".

For starters, unless I'm mistaken your flat bench should always be higher than your incline. The 35s are max weight sets, so they are done after 2 sets of 30s, after 2 sets of 25s...and after 6 sets of flat bench...which all leaves me pretty wrecked by the time I get to them! I've never tried incline dumbells fresh, they are a supplementary exercise for me, so the numbers aren't too important for me to compare. I also started flat benching long before incline, so flat bench has had a lot more time to gradually step up :)

Sort of related:

Was flat benching lastnight and I always like to push it (pun) until I can do no more...this can mean 10 long seconds to get the bar up on the last rep...during which time other people helpfully/annoyingly come over and go to grab the bar, thinking I'm about to drop it lol. It's nice that they have your back, but when you're putting everything you have into it, it's extremely difficult to talk and politely tell them "don't touch the f**king bar!".

Good answer Birds, what weight we lift on assistance exercises is not important, far too many factors, as you pointed out

Its like some dick telling us how much he curls, irrelevant

Again, a case of majoring in the minor shit

Not one of my lifters has ever maxed an assistance exercises before doing the main lift. Even our 250-300kg box squats are done AFTER squatting

Sort of related:

Was flat benching lastnight and I always like to push it (pun) until I can do no more...this can mean 10 long seconds to get the bar up on the last rep...during which time other people helpfully/annoyingly come over and go to grab the bar, thinking I'm about to drop it lol. It's nice that they have your back, but when you're putting everything you have into it, it's extremely difficult to talk and politely tell them "don't touch the f**king bar!".

I've always been under the impression that you should stop 1 before you max out to failure.

In saying that, if your form is the same as the first one guess you're not failing.

Good answer Birds, what weight we lift on assistance exercises is not important, far too many factors, as you pointed out

Its like some dick telling us how much he curls, irrelevant

Again, a case of majoring in the minor shit

Not one of my lifters has ever maxed an assistance exercises before doing the main lift. Even our 250-300kg box squats are done AFTER squatting

See, we're not so different afterall :P

What are the benefits of box squats after squats, as an assistance exercise?

With different size boxes we can target the lifters weakest part of the lift, where his leverage cant overcome the weight, everyone has this point on every lift, others we would never fail lol

We also do pause squats to teach confidence in the hole, and finish with BB lunges, maybe GHR afterwards

I can't bench much more with the bar than with dumbells. On incline I can probably do more with dumbells actually. I think tha is purely because I have just always used dumbells because it was slightly safer when training alone.

I do incline bench first and then flat bench, because my upper chest was lagging a bit...

Mitch, can you do me a favour mate, can you please post up an Anatomy chart and show me the upper chest

I've looked long and hard, cant find one.

Check where the pec insertion points are, the entire muscle contracts

Its a bodybuilding myth, you cant alter the shape of your muscles, and if it doesnt exist on an anatomy chart, it doesnt exist, unlike the different heads for deltoids, which are on the chart and do exist

Just sayin

I no I'm the Lone Ranger on here, but the truth is the truth

Look again?

The pec has two heads. Sternal and clavicular, named after where they originate from. Sure they share a common tendon and both heads will contract in flat bench and incline. But in incline bench the emphasis is placed more on the clavicular head due to position on the arm in relation to the torso.

Just because two seperate heads of a muscle share a common tendon doesn't mean the same movement will impact both heads equally. Take you deltoid example. 3 heads originating from slightly different spots and all insert at the same point on the humerus. So why doesn't overhead press give you big rear delts? Because of the position of the arm in relation to the torso. Sure the rear delts will still contract in overhead press but not to the same degree that they do in reverse flyes or barbell rows and that's why they don't get big doing only overhead press.

I wasn't suggesting I can alter the shape of my clavicular pectoral head, I was saying I wanted to stimulate growth in it more than my sternal head to even them up. Which is why I changed to doing incline first, where I can lift a bigger weight for more rels and recruit more motor units in the clavicular head than I would doing it afterwards in a fatigued state. Which hopefully helps stimulate hypertrophy in the clavicular head.

Sorry if I was unclear with my statement.

Edited by Mitcho_7

Any decent anatomy book will clearly label the clavicular pectoral head.

But i get the feeling you are just nit-picking at the fact I called it "upper chest" instead of specifically referring to the clavicular pectoral head. In which case, chill out and excuse me for being a bit lax with anatomical terms on a forum. Even my anatomy professor has called it the upper chest.

If you are saying there isn't actually a clavicular pectoral head then that's more of a worry.

Edited by Mitcho_7

Mitch, all I'm saying is for years people think that by changing an angle or a grip they are hitting a different muscle etc, like guys that do preacher curls for lower biceps and concentration curls for the peak

They are trying to train muscles that dont exist, just like the upper pecs

Do incline presses, my guys do them every single bench session because they are an awesome exercise, not because they are hitting a fantasy muscle

We love the training effect we get out of them.

Our "upper" pecs are no more developed than anyone that doesnt do them

ps What did your anatomy professor press?

Edited by markos

A variety of resistance exercises can be used to train the pectoralis major, including bench pressing (using dumbbells, barbells or machines at various angles such as decline, incline and flat where the hips are above, below and level with the head respectively), push ups, flyes (using dumbbells or machines at either flat or inclined angles), cable crossovers or dips. This muscle is often said to consist of four portions (upper, lower, inner and outer) but the pectoralis actually contracts evenly across all heads during most exercises and as such no portion can be 'targeted'

I f**king hate having to go look for references on a topic I know through 30 years of lifting and training people. And I didnt need a proffesor to tell me.

Anyone thats ever lifted would know this if he paid attention, rather than read it in a book

I'm not saying your not correct because you have probably forgotten more than I know about strength training.

However, until you send me a link/point me in the direction of a reference that is valid, which shows that, then I'm inclined to remain skeptical.

At the risk of sparking another debate...

Stepped up the behind neck military press tonight. Usually do 45kg x 10 x 3 and 50kg x 10 x 3. Now onto 50kg x 10 x 6. Interestingly, the last 3 sets felt easier than they did when I was doing 45kg for the first 3 sets (mind trick because I'm starting off with max weight?), despite wrecking myself more by the end of it.

The next increase will be 55kg for the last 3 sets. Don't know what I'm shooting for here...I think it would be cool to eventually do bodyweight (79kg) for reps - I'm a while off that though.

Should probably start a build thread instead of spamming this one with changes to my workout :)

Related: discovering the beauty of 1.25kg plates for incremental increases on deadlifts and squats. Only just notice the difference in weight, but it's so negligible, you can still push out the same reps. Can only imagine 750gm plates would be even better!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...