Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All I hear is whinging about techniques and width of equipment. At least you can move both your arms and do the friggen exercise. If I could do dips between two shopping trolleys with a couple of retards holding them in place I would.

angry_birds___red___super_high_quality__

yes and yes

an olympic bar is 7', 20kg, bearing collars and takes olympic plates (the big hole ones)

standard bar is the stuff you have.

they also make an olympic ladies bar which is 6' and 15kg. the collars are shorter and the gap between the collars is the same as the 7' ones.

just incase you want the lady version.

Sell your shit on ebay, add some more money to your funds and get a cage/bar and plates package like this..

http://www.cyber-market.com.au/cyberfit-power-rack-100kg-olympic-weight-flat-bench-p-591.html

More than you'll need for a while.. and you can always buy more plates as needed.

or if you want to retain your plates you could get something like this..

http://www.gymdirect.com.au/item/5-Package-Deal-_-BPR02-Power-Rack-with-high-low-pulley--+-FD3-flat-bench-+-100kg-barbell-dumbell-set-$865/109.htm

Just trying to follow your logic on buying an entire kit if there's an option to just buy a longer standard bar. Doesn't seem like there is any unless the goal is to ultimately move to Olympic gear.

So I have a new attitude towards this shoulder injury. I thought f**k it...I'm gonna come out the other side of this thing with a positive: huge f**k off legs. Time to make up for the years of neglecting legs in favour of upper body.

So until the physio gives me the all clear on upper body movements, I'm gonna smash the shit out of legs 3-4 times a week. This will involve:

Squats

Squats

Leg press

Hamstring curls

Calf raises

Possibly more squats

Legs progress shot from me.

8637151882_1f28bf8731_z.jpg

Congratulations dude, you're my motivation to put some serious size on my legs over the next 8 weeks or so.

Exactly!!!

I can't do chest so have trained legs twice this week. Tonight was shoulders and traps but before that did 10mins on the bike as warm up and then 5 sets of squats.

Want my legs to get heaps bigger and stronger in the next month.

Fark that session felt good. Hamstring curl smashed my hamstrings in a way that deadlifts can't. And it'll be good to balance out legs with some calf work for aesthetics :)

Satisfaction at the end almost makes up for no upper body work during the session. More energy for squats too, which I normally save for the end of the session.

Sounds good Birds. Hope it all goes well for you mate. An old PT mate of mine stuffed a tendon in his wrist (forget the exact injury but basically sheared off the bone I believe) but it was depressing the number of exercises that ruled out. He found ways to use wraps or particular machines to work around it as much as possible until it healed up completely

With legs being such a big muscle group too I think it should help burn the calories up

I've always had decent upper legs, they would be my best body part. Have never had to do too much to them to maintain volume and they respond well for me. Whereas back , shoulders etc I seem to need to work continually to maintain any size. I'm going to focus on the calves a lot more and hope for some sort of development there. apparently for some people it doesn't seem to matter what you do they just wont respond.

Advice/help from those in the know please.

I have a fairly noticeable size difference between legs due to an old knee injury and would like some guidance as to how to even them up. I have full range of movement but the injured knee isn't as stable as my good knee.

My lower body workout currently consist of the following once a week: Walking lunges, Squats (parallel), Deadlifts, Hamstring curls, calf raises, single leg dead lifts and jumping squats.

Try to do cardio twice a week, HIIT resistance circuit, HIIT on rowing machine/stationary cycle, if I have time XC mountain biking. Also do two upper body days a week, a three day split works best for me so I can keep workouts short after a long day at work. No training Sunday/Monday.

Some people tell me to do single leg exercises and do more reps for the weak leg, others say start with weak leg and only do the same amount of reps for both sides. Other people insist I should keep doing what I’m already doing and just concentrate on driving with the weaker leg more.

I train for general health and to blow off steam after a 13+ hr shifts.

I do need to have a reco at some point but time, money and rehab process put me off the idea while it mostly works ok.

If anyone can help me out that would be great as it's really starting to shit me.

EDIT: I just worked it out MORE SQUATS!

Edited by numleg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...