Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dose any one know how the yellow plastic fuel pump holder is clipped in or held in the tank for a R32 GTR, I want to take it out to make better mounts on it to mount my aftermarket fuel pump in the tank. Or try and make a better pick up as I am getting fuel surge in right handers at Oran Park GP,

It seems to be clipped in some how and has a slight amount of movement all of 3mm where it's clipped in from but I can not find a release clip,

Don't want to push to hard on it as could be bit brittle from having over 15 years of fuel on it, and don't want to be fishing plastic bit out of my tank.

Or how do other people mount aftermarket fuel pumps in the tank?

I don't want to fit a surge tank in the boot as I need boot space when I take the car on holidays, hate listing to noisy fuel pumps from a surge tank, or fit a fuel cooler to keep fuel temp down when a surge tank it fitted. Just want to get the best possible use out of the standard set up with a bigger pump.

Any help would be great!

the clips are at the base they are about .5cm high and are on each side of the bracket right at the bottom. can be very stiff after all this time, but if you break them you will need a new bracket (otherwise it will float around the tank)

the standard fuel pump has a little arm with a sock filter on the end that goes right to the bottom of the tank. aftermarket like the bosch pumps dont normally have this but you might be able to refit the arm to the aftermarket ones

but really, the best way to stop the surge is just run a little more fuel (over 1/4 tank) Oran Park off the bridge is about the worst it gets.

i did a fuel pump installs on a few r32's and have realised that the 044 fuel pump with an earls fitting on the end of it seems like it was purposely fabricated for the r32 fuel tank and bracket. i mounted it on the standard bracket with no dramas at all, and sat around 5-7mm from the bottom of the tank.

this is what it looked like after getting it on, but this was on a gts-t, im not sure if its the same on a gtr:

post-13452-1199885181_thumb.jpg

pm r32woohoo as he supplied the fittings for his install.

the 044's have their own strainer, just like the 040's. if you have a look inside the pick-up there is a fine steel mesh.

Thats Duncan for your help, was able to get the whole mount out, mount the pump on there better played around and

got it as low as possible.

Also thanks Security for your help looks like the pick up is totaly differnat on GTS-T to GTR?

GTR pump mounts on the bottom of the tank in a little cradle surge pot.

Thanks again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...