Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Could you direct me to someone who sells the GTR wide fenders and rear guards to convert my body of the GTT to GTR spec?

Either that or im going to do some sick custom work >_< Expensive tho :'(

Im also using the eastbear front bar (gtr conversion crap) so need the front fenders designed to fit a GTT front bar.

If anyone can help please do, Really want to start collecting parts\

Thanks

Im expecting URAS to reply, hopefully hes looking around the forums and will let me know if hes found a 2 door wide kit provider in japan :P

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200927-gtr-style-wide-body-for-gtt/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey DECIM8, Topstage do front and rear fenders for R33. I am going to get some when i get bigger spacers on the rear.

Here's there site- http://topstage.com.au/

I think they look really good and they are really good quality to.

And at $240 a pair they are good value.

Hey DECIM8, Topstage do front and rear fenders for R33. I am going to get some when i get bigger spacers on the rear.

Here's there site- http://topstage.com.au/

I think they look really good and they are really good quality to.

And at $240 a pair they are good value.

I think DECIM8 is looking for R34... his car is R34 GT-T...

and its GT-T -> GT-R..

Yeah thanks guys been ringing around, can only order from japan none seem to be sold here.. the search continues

If you have pics of what you're looking for (GTR rear and front fenders you can find on yahoo auto japan but you gotta search through over 400 pages of items if you can't read and type japanese) then ask www.rhdjapan.com if they sell it. They'll most likely find it for you and price it. They are native English speakers and they ship EMS so everything should be smooth.

Edited by chak8080

so you want wide fenders, but you want the east bear front bumper? doesn't work like that... for the east bear bumper, you only need to change the bonnet and the bumper fits up to the standard GTT guards.

If you go factory GTR fenders, then you can source OEM of aftermarket GTR parts

Oh and to SS, You can buy guards that line up to factory front bumpers but are flared more than GTT guards.. Like the Z tune ones for GTT which are being made, Still waiting if they are finished :)

Thats what Ill be getting as fitting a front GTR bar and side fenders is a painful process.

And the eastbear kit is alot nicer :)

Oh and to SS, You can buy guards that line up to factory front bumpers but are flared more than GTT guards.. Like the Z tune ones for GTT which are being made, Still waiting if they are finished :blink:

Thats what Ill be getting as fitting a front GTR bar and side fenders is a painful process.

And the eastbear kit is alot nicer :blink:

right o, well you better be damn sure that it will fit. East Bear don't muck around, they charge the earth, but the quality is second to none. If the aftermarket guards you put on aren't good, the front bar ain't going to fit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...