Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm getting an AVC-R fitted tomorrow and I just realised that I should probably be taking along a fuel pump..

I'm just wondering how many rwkw's the standard R34 GTT fuel pump can handle?

I know it's been asked before, I searched but couldn't find..

My S2 stagea has ~160awkw which translates roughly to 180rwkw. If I raise the boost even just 1-2psi it hits "boost cut" (R&R, but it cuts the fuel briefly).

I've been told by a workshop that around 180rwkw is approaching the limits of the standard fuel pump. I have standard regulator/injectors. I believe the standard regulator and injectors can go a bit higher, maybe 200rwkw? anyone know for sure?

I'd like to run 14psi through mine and would like to think that a fuel pump is all I need also...so I'm quite interested in this thread...

id say around 200kw + ish is around the max

i wouldnt use it with a larger turbo basically

its probably pretty good & fine for the std turbo

220kw is do-able with std pump - it just depends - i mean it could be on it's knees and only just making it or it could be fine

a dyno plot with afr and fuel pressure will tell you all you need to know

i guess its important to note if it cant keep up and you lean out and you dont notice - rebuild time

mate i ran 220rwkw on stock fuel pump and injectors, but no one believes me. so yeh lol

rays dyno is like 20kw out i reckon, i've seen a dyno sheet from an r33 with a hks25/30, stock injectors making 250rwkws on his dyno, i dont believe it haha.

Is the bosch 044 a straight drop in on the R34 GTT?? or does it need to be modified??

needs to be strapped to the craddle and needs to be mounted really low inside the tank.

staight drop in pumps are like $400+ from nismo or tomei.

From a dollars and cents point of view often the relivant series R32/3/4 GTR pumps can be good .

I'd be asking if R33 or R34 GTR pumps fall in and go that way for a mild upgrade .

Given a choice I would prefer slightly larger injectors over higher fuel rail pressure but it naturally costs more . The flow on benefit (yeh I know) is that at the std fuel rail pressure the pump should be able to keep its volume capacity up a little longer .

The Bosch 044 pump moves a lot of fuel at low pressures and you can at times have fuel temperature issues because so much fuel is doing circuits from the tank and back . Could be a case of too much overkill .

Cheers A .

so if we're talking about a bit over 200rwkw on an r33 (stock turbo), you think the stock fuel pump would be a concern? considering it is working fine, and doesnt seem to struggle on the dyno with afr's, or on the road, ie surging etc.

Edited by Munkyb0y

It might not struggle now, but get it checked every 6 months or so on a Dyno IMO.

Plenty have not been upto the task @ 200rwkw when AFR's lean out too easily.

So as long as you keep a tab on it regularly it will be 'ok' if you want to risk the couple of hundred

Just change the stock fuel pump. Its not worth tryin to save a couple hundred bucks when it can result in a lean out and engine rebuild. Also if you choose to do other mods in the future its going to have to be changed anyway. Its not worth being a cheap ass over.

I have run the GTT pump to it's limits.

224rwkw when auto so add a few more kw to compare to manual. I did a track day and I can honestly say that I scraped through. The colour of the exhaust changed markedly as it was running very lean. Somehow I didn't blow it then so I decided to blow it later. (jokes - but I did blow it).

DO NOT TRUST A WALBRO PAST 240RWKW. Have I emphasised this enough? Pay attention.

its important to note the flow rates of the walbro's are rated at 15v

if you install a wallbro in your std skyline it only gets 12v

so you either need to step up to the next model or run direct wiring from the battery

most people dont do this so it could explain why its "performing less than expected"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...