Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm getting an AVC-R fitted tomorrow and I just realised that I should probably be taking along a fuel pump..

I'm just wondering how many rwkw's the standard R34 GTT fuel pump can handle?

I know it's been asked before, I searched but couldn't find..

My S2 stagea has ~160awkw which translates roughly to 180rwkw. If I raise the boost even just 1-2psi it hits "boost cut" (R&R, but it cuts the fuel briefly).

I've been told by a workshop that around 180rwkw is approaching the limits of the standard fuel pump. I have standard regulator/injectors. I believe the standard regulator and injectors can go a bit higher, maybe 200rwkw? anyone know for sure?

I'd like to run 14psi through mine and would like to think that a fuel pump is all I need also...so I'm quite interested in this thread...

id say around 200kw + ish is around the max

i wouldnt use it with a larger turbo basically

its probably pretty good & fine for the std turbo

220kw is do-able with std pump - it just depends - i mean it could be on it's knees and only just making it or it could be fine

a dyno plot with afr and fuel pressure will tell you all you need to know

i guess its important to note if it cant keep up and you lean out and you dont notice - rebuild time

mate i ran 220rwkw on stock fuel pump and injectors, but no one believes me. so yeh lol

rays dyno is like 20kw out i reckon, i've seen a dyno sheet from an r33 with a hks25/30, stock injectors making 250rwkws on his dyno, i dont believe it haha.

Is the bosch 044 a straight drop in on the R34 GTT?? or does it need to be modified??

needs to be strapped to the craddle and needs to be mounted really low inside the tank.

staight drop in pumps are like $400+ from nismo or tomei.

From a dollars and cents point of view often the relivant series R32/3/4 GTR pumps can be good .

I'd be asking if R33 or R34 GTR pumps fall in and go that way for a mild upgrade .

Given a choice I would prefer slightly larger injectors over higher fuel rail pressure but it naturally costs more . The flow on benefit (yeh I know) is that at the std fuel rail pressure the pump should be able to keep its volume capacity up a little longer .

The Bosch 044 pump moves a lot of fuel at low pressures and you can at times have fuel temperature issues because so much fuel is doing circuits from the tank and back . Could be a case of too much overkill .

Cheers A .

so if we're talking about a bit over 200rwkw on an r33 (stock turbo), you think the stock fuel pump would be a concern? considering it is working fine, and doesnt seem to struggle on the dyno with afr's, or on the road, ie surging etc.

Edited by Munkyb0y

It might not struggle now, but get it checked every 6 months or so on a Dyno IMO.

Plenty have not been upto the task @ 200rwkw when AFR's lean out too easily.

So as long as you keep a tab on it regularly it will be 'ok' if you want to risk the couple of hundred

Just change the stock fuel pump. Its not worth tryin to save a couple hundred bucks when it can result in a lean out and engine rebuild. Also if you choose to do other mods in the future its going to have to be changed anyway. Its not worth being a cheap ass over.

I have run the GTT pump to it's limits.

224rwkw when auto so add a few more kw to compare to manual. I did a track day and I can honestly say that I scraped through. The colour of the exhaust changed markedly as it was running very lean. Somehow I didn't blow it then so I decided to blow it later. (jokes - but I did blow it).

DO NOT TRUST A WALBRO PAST 240RWKW. Have I emphasised this enough? Pay attention.

its important to note the flow rates of the walbro's are rated at 15v

if you install a wallbro in your std skyline it only gets 12v

so you either need to step up to the next model or run direct wiring from the battery

most people dont do this so it could explain why its "performing less than expected"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...