Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A CAMS license is required, you can buy one on the day though, either a Day License or a Year License :(

$150 - Full payment for No limit car club members

$165 - Full payment + No Limit Car Club Membership payment for non members with current CAMS L2S licenses.

$190 - Full payment + No Limit Car Club Membership + CAMS L2S day license payment.

$260 - Full payment + No Limit Car Club Membership + CAMS L2S year license payment.

So is a CAMS license required or not?? Or is it just the $165??

A CAMS licence can be sorted out for you on the day. But given they are less than $100 just organise yourself a level 2S and then you wont have to worry about it for the rest of the year. Note that a prerequisite for a CAMS licence is affiliation to a club - the Nolimits mob have a club.

See here.

http://www.nolimitevents.com/e107_plugins/...viewtopic.php?2

Some things to note:

I understand you can only get one day licence per year.

A day licence is $25 (plus membership) whereas a yearly is all of about $70 more. So just get the yearly.

Edited by djr81

Well it might be worth using up that one day licence there and then, if I like it I'll get a year one...

I was under the impression that a CAMS licence required some sort of 'demonstration of competancy'... I guess I was wrong....

I don't think I'll get the yearly, I've got to get a knee op soonish, then I'll be out of my car for six weeks... After that I dunno... However I really, really want to see what the GTT has got, even though it is next to bone stock, at least I can give it some in a safe and legal environment....

Highly recommended event. Long track while the sun goes down and short track under lights. Awesome array of cars on display and some lightening times progress as the temp drops! Great event for beginners and pro's alilke.

Edited by DOGBOX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...