Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well guys ive been thinking lately what system to purchase and i am thinking of getting a full kicker system set up? i know they dont make head units so i will have to buy a different brand for that but yer do these give out good sound? and are they worth getting?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202203-full-kicker-system/
Share on other sites

for subs you get good bang for bucks with kicker subs, if you got cash and want something better get jl 12w7.

If you want splits get focal I got jl z650 components dam expensive and pretty dam good also made in germany.

If i was to do it again i would get focal 165K2P they sound real good it also has better warranty 3yrs if installed by professional and 2yrs with jl i think.

MTX is a waste of time. Your going to need an amp again I would go JL again need one for sub and one for components or just get 4 channel jl 4x75 when you know car audio you know jl has got the goods where it matters. JL stuff is all practical exactly what you need and nothing that you don't trust me.

One more tip do it right once and then you won't need to look back.

Depends on many things, if I were you I'd rather invest my money in a brand such as Earthquake, but the JL 12W7 is definitely a good choice also. If your budget allows though, look at the Earthquake Subzero range, even the Holees range if you dare haha. Can't beat it really. Only others I would bother with are the Pioneer SPL range (TS-W5102SPL or if you can --> a TS-W5000SPL which is its predecessor, also would be cheaper due to being old stock) models. In terms of the amplifier, both and Earthquake and Pioneer offer purpose built amps for their top subs, so that's one option. You can always mix the sub with a different brand of amplifier.

Speakers... Earthquake once again, anything from tweeters to 700W 6x9's and 600W 6.5 inchers. There's a guy on here - NEMZ I think, who has an almost complete Earthquake system, except for the subs (who knows why :blink: probably coz they're a fair bit if you purchase them in AUS - and relatively rare).

:D

OK well all the brands listed are fine .. apart from rainbow they are awesome .. but somthing that is on par and are just wonderfull is DIGITAL DESIGNS .. holder of the worlds loudest car for 5 years running is saying somthing .

i have a full DD audio sys in my R31 and i love it splits up front coax rears 4ch amp and single sub and my car plays perfect sound . they have awesome imaging .. but at the end of the day u need to not just sit on the comp and ask ppls opinion go out to shops and demo them. if u are near autobarn in sunshine melbourne come in and see me and i will demo them for ya

  • 2 weeks later...

Im no expert when it comes to audio, but i know a little. My last system was fairly cheap, under a grand id say - All Kenwood too, and i thought that for how much it cost it went alright, was pleanty loud enough, but not loud enough to draw attention and sound quality was pretty good. The only thing that let it down was the sub and amp, i needed a different brand sub and a bigger amp, then it would have gone alright. If your short for cash have a look at Kenwood, their stuff isnt too bad and really easy to use.

From what ive heard kicker subs are meant to be really good for the price you pay for them.

Also if you are strapped for cash look for a brand that deals in Highs, Mediums and Lows, compared to brands like pioneer which only deel with highs (from what i heard).

Dont rush into buying a system, read up about it, Hot 4s mag usually do a pretty decent write up on audio gear each month, which is usually pretty honest, so if u have the time learn n then shop.

My 2cents

post removed by moderator

Wow. just wow.

So you obviously aren't really into high range car audio then if you have heard of Rainbow. Rainbow are a German made brand, Click here to find out about what you think is a 'cheap' brand.

I would definitely rate Rainbow and Digital Designs better then Pioneer and Earthquake.

Now, to the original poster, any reason why you want a system full of the same brand?

HAHAHA, ok bro, ok. OK no worries "mate"

PS: Digital Designs, just in case you don't get my blatant sarcasm above, do NOT, hold any type of record, and DEFINITELY is not the world's loudest for 5 years in a row (if ever LOL).

The World standard for car audio SPL competition is dB Drag Racing, surely even you has heard of this? www.dbdragracing.com

Please visit the site and select the "dB Drag Racing" from the menu on the left, then "Leaderboard"

Select the year, start 5 years back, 2003 and “dB Drag Racing”, then “next”.

Then select "Maximum Certified SPL" and "List Standings"

This brings up a list, in 2003 "Team dB Warriors" hit 173.3dB using Digital Designs (DD) woofers.

Search 2004 at the top is "Team Loud" on 176.1dB

If you look further you will see they too used Digital Designs (DD) woofers.

Do the same for 2005:

It's a tie at 178 for Team Loud (DD) and Edge Audio (Pioneer).

However in Deathmatch competition at the World Finals, (a five minute average!), Team Loud hit an incredible 175.1 (non stop for 5 minutes!), while Edge Audio managed just 104.8dB

Now 2006:

Team Loud, 179.5 - guess what, again with Digital Designs woofers

2007:

Alan Dante - 180.5

Alan is the loudest man ever, the first ever over 180dB.

Alan uses a SINGLE Digital Designs 18" woofer and only four amps to hit 180.5dB!!!!

For the record Edge Audio came in at number 2, with a still impressive 179.8 using 13 Pioneer woofers and 52 amps.

There you have it. DD have been number one in the world for five years running. We also hold every Australian record. I should know, I've built the loudest car in Australia since 1999.

So who ever has been filling your head with these lies, tell them to do some research. :D

Phil

Edited by raz0r$harP.UK
Perfect sound from one 4channel amp.. haha

Absolutely, for example our Digital Designs S4 is a high end asymmetrical amplifier. It is rated at 2x100 and 2x200Wrms. It also features on board 24dB/octave bandpass crossover.

It can deliver 2x100Wrms into front components and 1x700Wrms into 2 ohms mono for sub(s) from a single compact package.

I'd be happy to demo a vehicle and show you what you've been missing all these years. :D

Autobarn Capalaba were the 2007 Australian SPL champions. :laugh:

Over 162dB from just two DD woofers, in a car with standard windows.

Phil

post-47184-1201870314_thumb.jpg

Edited by raz0r$harP.UK

Apologies for that - I've never heard of Digital Designs before in my life, also I'm going to sue Pioneer for false advertising on their site, stating they've won the main world wide SPL comp many a year in a row. However I still don't see how a 12" sub pushing a max of 1000watts is anywhere near the class of a 15" pushing 15,000 peak and 7,000 continuous... with 4inches of excursion. Sorry I just don't see it happening. Referring to the "Rainbow" subwoofers now. Also, to FIGJAM who stated that as far as he's concerned, Pioneer's range only deal with high frequencies.... refer to http://www.pioneer.com.au/products/car_ent...ange/index.html

I guess we'd need to know whether this guy wants to spend a lot of money or not, whether he's looking for SPL or dB performance, and whether he's after gut wrenching bass or something to make his hip hop and rap sound like pop candy tunes. Personally I'd prefer low hard hitting bass with plenty of excursion and QUALITY, rather than just raw volume. I haven't even checked out the DD range or anything, but from the information Phil gave up there, it gives me the impression that they can handle much more power than what they're rated at. Anyway, wasn't trying to pick a fight simply help the guy. Honestly though, I'm going after Pioneer for 10million.

No problems mate. But to be fair, if you haven't listened to the rainbow or DD gear, you should definitely check it out...they both manufacture some fantastic gear.

You should also check out the Car Audio Australia forums at http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au - I would rate that as one of the better local sources of information on car audio gear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...