Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just bought a GTR 33 and its either got a twin or triple plate clutch in it.....

I hate it with a passion!!

Its noisy, makes terriable *Ting* sounds etc etc

Its hard to get used to... You let the clutch out slowly.. nothing nothing nothing nothing then ALL the clutch is fully out... theres no play in it or riding the clutch....

Does anyone else have one? Whats your thoughts?

Are they put in for big horse power aplications? is that the reason... cos i hate it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202896-triple-or-twin-plate-clutches/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well I have a twin plate. It is perfectly driveable (lightened flywheel effects aside) but when cold rattles like a bitch.

And yes they are used because they have more torque capacity than most single plates.

only when cold it rattles??? mine as soon as u touch your foot on the clutch it rattles like s**t...?

If its "that" bad it's probably a triple

Best bet is to wait until you're at a skyline meet, an ask if anyone has a triple and wouldnt mind you driving it around the block. Then see if its the same (within reason as all clutches will be different).

Or just pull it out and put a single plate in there

I have an excedy twin plate in my GTST which is my daily driver, and I now I really like it. But at first I was exactly like you and hated it, the rattle really pissed me off (now I dont mind it) and it took me a good month to become 100% efficient with the on/off nature of the beast(hill starts in the wet were a killer).

But honestly now I love it, drive yours for a while, get use to it, enjoy it.

If its "that" bad it's probably a triple

Best bet is to wait until you're at a skyline meet, an ask if anyone has a triple and wouldnt mind you driving it around the block. Then see if its the same (within reason as all clutches will be different).

Or just pull it out and put a single plate in there

Was thinking about it but to be honest i guess i want to spend money on making it go better and then i guess the clutch is already upgraded so no need to worry about it... was just wondering what other people thought of them thats all... and ive never come across one before and was wondering if it was adjusted right etc and had to make the noise etc...

I have an excedy twin plate in my GTST which is my daily driver, and I now I really like it. But at first I was exactly like you and hated it, the rattle really pissed me off (now I dont mind it) and it took me a good month to become 100% efficient with the on/off nature of the beast(hill starts in the wet were a killer).

But honestly now I love it, drive yours for a while, get use to it, enjoy it.

PHEW thats what i was hoping to hear....

Yer drove it today to work... at a set of lights on a hill.... thank god i was the only one at it lol... roooooolling!

only when cold it rattles??? mine as soon as u touch your foot on the clutch it rattles like s**t...?

Well yes it only rattles when you put your foot on the clutch. If the gear stick is in neutral & your foot is ff the clutch the plates are engaed & there is nothing to rattle.

What I was saying was that once the clutch itself has some heat in it when you depress the pedal it doesn't make anywhere near the same amount of noise.

You can, I'm sure find a more driveable example. It is only ever about the friction materials & whether or not it has a sprung or unsprung centre.

There are good twin plates and bad ones. Good ones still drive just as nice/easy as a single... or at least very close to. Then there are really crap ones that have no give in them.. pain in the ass to drive, you can get used to them however.

There are good twin plates and bad ones. Good ones still drive just as nice/easy as a single... or at least very close to. Then there are really crap ones that have no give in them.. pain in the ass to drive, you can get used to them however.

HAHA GUESSING MINES SHIT THEN! LOL

I *believe* I have an OS Giken twin plate clutch, it has a very small slipping point and groans and rattles IF you take off with low revs or attempt to slip it.

Give it a little power when your just near the friction point (ie. something like 1200-1500RPM) and then let it out fairly quickly and its nearly silent. Ie. don't try to slip it too much.

Last time I tried to drive a normal car I couldn't feel the clutch too well, so I think I might be used to it now.

Although, as others said you may have a triple plate which are said to be much harder.

More importantly than your clutch concerns, congratulations on your purchase!!! mine is purple too :)

not sure if your aware that multiplate clutches of the non-damper type are horribly on/off in operation, and for street your best off with a sprung centre, or damper type, that makes the on/off transition as good as a nice single plate amongst the better ones.

I just purchased an OS giken STR2CD twin plate for my gts, cost about 1700 delivered through greenline, apparently has very light pedal pressure and very easy to use. My GTR has a pretty heavy rebuilt OS twin plate, must be the TS2CD. Its still a damper type, but is quite on off, and makes your leg tired in stop/go traffic situations!

End of the day, if you use your car regularly, from my experience its eventually worth spending the $ on making it more driveable or friendly. if its a bit of a pig you may not look forward to driving it as much! My old clunky mechanical diff would put me off driving in the city!

cheers

Just installed a extreme 1650kg clamp load single plate with alloy flywheel.

Pedal feels like its just a fraction harder than the standard unit, although it judders a little on take off due to the button clutch plate but very happy with the performance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...