Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use an OS Giken OS Giken STR2BD (which is not as harsh as a C apparently) twinplate in my daily. Its quite driveable in heavy traffic, and still gives enough grip for trackdays n the like. Regular clutches feel so shit now after using the twinny (not to mention my foot goes straight to the floor cos they don't give as much resistance). Although I'm kinda tired of people telling me there's something rattling on my car whenever I put the clutch in.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im looking @ purchasing this Nismo Super Coppermix - Twin Plate Clutch

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/super-coppermi...in-plate-clutch maximum rating of 670ps.

For $1947 delivered.

What you guys reckon?

Got a K Style car shop twin plate in my silvia and it's a pain in the ass...

Mainly because when we did the auto to manual conversion we started running out of time so didn't get to do a full bleed of the clutch and never got round to finishing it so to get it in gear you have to push it down a fair way... but it won't start to engage again unless it's really close to the top

So instead of the engage/disengage point being at the same pedal position if you're doing a hillstart for example you push the clutch pretty far in then hold the revs up and slowly let it out until you can find the magical pickup point which usually ends up in either wheelspin or stalling or huge clutch riding

I use to have 3 plate clutch and it was a nightmare to drive, now gone to 4 plate OS and it is great, a lot less pedal pressure required and you can slip the C$$p out of it. Quite loud when sitting there in neutral but once you push the pedal in it is a lot quieter. Best clutch I have ever had on the GTR.

:domokun:

Im looking @ purchasing this Nismo Super Coppermix - Twin Plate Clutch

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/super-coppermi...in-plate-clutch maximum rating of 670ps.

For $1947 delivered.

What you guys reckon?

For that type of $$ I'd be getting an NPC twin plate ($1800) + it's rated to 1000HP, got one in my GTST and it's user friendly and has taken a huge amount of abuse with 500RWHP.

i'm currently looking at replacing my fried OS Giken twin. im after a twin plate that has a heavy pedal feel, bites good and is not too harsh on the gearbox. id prefer a rattling clutch :D although i wouldnt base my decision on that.

also was wondering if anyone has got or driven a Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Competition Model ?

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...tch/sctwin.html

Edited by Lagsta
Im looking @ purchasing this Nismo Super Coppermix - Twin Plate Clutch

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/super-coppermi...in-plate-clutch maximum rating of 670ps.

For $1947 delivered.

What you guys reckon?

Best. twin. plate. ever.

Easy to drive, takes abuse well, no noise, feels like a stock clutch thats a tiny bit grabbier than usual. Get it!

  • 3 months later...

Iam now driving with exedy triple plate. It is a fcking nightmare, it is a killer. When i bought it, it was used... reason = low price. Now i would pay thousands of dollarz to get nice clutch. I ordered nismo coppermix twinplate... hope it is easier to drive in the traffic!!!!

Ps, turned off the engine four times with gay exedy in the same traffic lights... consecutively!!! that pisses me off.

Best. twin. plate. ever.

Easy to drive, takes abuse well, no noise, feels like a stock clutch thats a tiny bit grabbier than usual. Get it!

Agreed.

i had a light switch ORC twin in my GTR32 and swapped it for the Nismo Twin.

All this talk of "big men" with "hardening up" and "get used to it"

A properly engineered product can take 1000hp and feel stock. Why would you make something difficult to drive if it doesn't have to be?

to be a "man"? lol

fark you guys are funny.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...