Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 With Twin Afm's, If I Get Them Mixed Up Will The Car Not Start?


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im trying to figure out why my car aint starting, i suspect my cas is the fault(as we dropped it), but i was thinking, if the AFM's were switched when plugged in, would this cause the same problem???, im sure ive plugged them in correctly, but just want to make sure,for me to test this though, id have to remove the arc air box etc, bt of work invloved, as one of the plugs can only reache to the afm, which is the reason why i think i have them setup correcty....is there an easy way to test this???as my car aint starting at all right now!, will my car start without the afms plugged in?

thanks

Edited by nsta

None of the above will stop the car starting. Check for trouble codes in the ecu. Have you puled the cas out and turned it by hand to see if the injetors are clicking yet? A troubled CAS will pull a trouble code in the ecu.

Hey, yes when i turn the cas unit, i hear the injectors clicking.....does this mean that its working fine?, i just refitted my new head, and since its not working.....Timing is spot on, when i turn the keys, car almost starts, then a vacuum sound comes through the intake, and then nothing....i dnt know what it is...

If i can hear clicking in the injectors with the cas unit, does this usually mean that the cas unit is fine?

Replaced cas, car started immediately, but was running very rough....is it usual for my engine to have noisy lifters for awhile after replacing headgasket and doing a bit of headwork?....im scared as someone said thats usual, while another said that could be your valves bent:(.....knocking in other words...i dont know how to tell the difference, someone is coming to have a look at it tommorow....

Well the timing and everything is spot on, i removed everything and rechecked, but my car seems to be still rattling, i thought it was the lifters, as they were noisy before i even replaced the gasket(when the motor was fine)....but this sound is amplified by 10!, i mean the more revs, the more noise they make, which makes me think they are knocks, im getting a mechanic to check today...

Thats something the head reconditioner's would have done (hope they did)......could this be the noise?, if so, im going to be annoyed if i have to remove head again because of something they didnt do......

i did recheck the timing, and it was off by maybe a tooth, so im going to get the guy whos coming around to redo the timing and see if that helps, will having the timing off by a tooth cause bent valves and danger zone?....i heard someone who was out by 2 teeth and was running shit performance, but fine otherwse.....

Im crossing my fingers its not Big ends (knocking).....could knocking occur due to wrong timing?

If BB says it can get noisy then yes that could be the noise :(

What head work did you get done? Was there cam work? Maybe the head guy thought your tuner would do the clearances.

You can set the clearances with the head on - just need to take the cam covers off (no shit huh?)

incorrect valve clearances will definitely give you a noisy valve train and often it's difficult to pick bottom of engine noises from head noises. it's possible they didn't think it worth checking (unlikely), or maybe couldn't get a hold of the shims needed (less common these days, than it used to be), but I wouldn't point the finger just yet. this is just a diagnosis phase. I don't think having the timing out by 1 tooth would cause any engine damage, but at the same time I wouldn't promise that it wont either. get that fixed and try again. some one with a good ear for RB26 should be able to tell you what the noise is. It can be tough as there are lots of noises going on. injectors are noisy, clutch fan is noisy, and the valve train is a little noisy too (though usually not as loud as the injectors).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...