Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I’m a bit perplexed….

Have had the Skyline (Series 1 R33 GTS 25t) for about six years now…came with a 3inch cat back exhaust system….was running well….in the last six months I have done the following….

Full 3 inch exhaust system

Greddy V-Spec FMIC

Apexi Pod Filter

Apexi Mechanical Boost Gauge

Turbotech Manual Boost Controller (the eBay one).

After I installed the exhaust, intercooler, and pod, I noticed that when flat out accelerating, in 3gear, a slight hesitation (miss??) around 5000rpm would occur – boost was at 7lbs (0.4Bar). This would happen intermittently, in cold and warm weather.

Just recently installed the Turbotech Manual Boost Controller and increased the boost to 10lbs (0.7 Bar) and this hesitation (miss(?) with a backfire) was more pronounced at the same RPM – around 5000.

Took the car out today on the highway and gave it flat to the floor acceleration from a standing start in 1, 2, 3, 4 gear, and it seemed to backfire when it reached the higher revs (above 4000rpm), making popping noises out of the exhaust, and surging forwards – it would lose power with every pop, then pick up again….so I stopped this very quickly, and drove it home, off boost, and it ran fine. It also runs fine when accelerating hard at low rpm, but as soon as it gets to around 4000 - 5000rpm+ it seems to miss and backfire – can’t hear any pinging though?

I have read on these forums that re-gapping the spark plugs to .8mm may help when turning up the boost (as they are 1.1mm stock I think), so I’ll probably buy some new plugs with the smaller gap, but was wondering if it could be anything else?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Pete

PS: I reset the ECU after every modification as suggested in other threads.

so I’ll probably buy some new plugs with the smaller gap, but was wondering if it could be anything else?

You don't buy plugs with a smaller gap!!! You buy plugs and then use feeler gauges and set the gap by knocking the tang on the plug in or bending it out a bit. Or you could just do it to the plugs you already have in it. A set of feeler gauges will set you back like sub $5 [you can get a bigger set for $30 approx.]

Thanks axe s and tridentt150v...I'll regap the plugs using feeler gauges to .8mm or .7mm and see if it makes a difference....

race snooze I didn't get the car retuned, nor am I using a SAFC, I only reset the ECU - should I be considering these options for such low level mods??

Thanks,

Pete

Fuel pump may be dying.

Increased power, increased boost - standard fuel pump in an older car wont last too long.

I did similar mods ages ago, and same thing happened.

I replaced fuel pump and also got a powerFC. Best mods ever.

Yourself now, I'd be looking at some sort of engine management also.

spark plugs and yes you can buy 0.8mm gapped plugs NGK coppers bcrp6es cost you f**k all and isn't dodgey

coil packs have probably had it as well,

stock ecu runs the engine pretty average at that boost pressure (very rich),

I also get flat spots (not missfire) up around the 5k mark with stock ecu & 10 psi,

I threw my un-tuned PFC in it and it ran perfect to the redline out of the box (tune coming soon)

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

Ok, cool...thanks for the additional info VB, sevenangry, and evil weevil....I'll definately look at the plugs as numer one priority (hope that's all it is!)..(BTW thanks for the reference number for the plugs sevenangry).

Hopefully this wont lead me down the path of replacing coil packs or the fuel pump....so I'll sort the plugs out first and see what happens...

I'll definately consider an aftermarket engine management in the future as well, evil weevil and sevenangry - once funds permit.... :P

Pete

Took the car out today on the highway and gave it flat to the floor acceleration from a standing start in 1, 2, 3, 4 gear, and it seemed to backfire when it reached the higher revs (above 4000rpm), making popping noises out of the exhaust, and surging forwards – it would lose power with every pop, then pick up again….so I stopped this very quickly, and drove it home, off boost, and it ran fine. It also runs fine when accelerating hard at low rpm, but as soon as it gets to around 4000 - 5000rpm+ it seems to miss and backfire – can’t hear any pinging though?

PS: I reset the ECU after every modification as suggested in other threads.

Hi Peter

you are most likely experiencing the rich/retard syndrome. It is a failsafe threshold in the factory ECU, designed to not let you exceed a certain power limit. Search "rich + retard" and you'll come up with plenty of reading on the topic.

By installing the less restrictive FMIC and pod, you are effectively allowing the engine to swallow a larger MASS of air at the same boost pressure. Then when you increased the boost, well it is just trying to exceed that boundary by a larger amount. The ECU responds as it is programmed to do, and your car stutters and stammers as described.

There are ways around it, either by fooling the factory ECU (use a piggyback interceptor), or using a different ECU.

With the mods you are running, there is no sound reason to be running smaller plug gaps IMO.

cheers

i would put money on the fact that it missfires at 4500rpm.. SPOT ON 4500RPM..

Gapping the plugs isnt the answer.. I did that and it fixed my missfires.. but also induced pinging..

now i could be wrong here (i often am) but wouldnt putting a smaller gapped plug in, slightly advance the timing (therefor inducing pinging..) Spark doesnt have as far to travel.. so it sparks slightly earlier?

based on coilpack design which work on resistance?

Im having the exact same issue.. but im getting a SAFC2 installed and tuned withing the next 2 weeks.. so ill let you know the outcome

EDIT* just noticed Dale FZ1 has the same idea i do.. I believe it is rich/retard.. simply as it missfires DEAD ON 4500rpm everytime.*

so hopefully the SAFC2 will fix the issue

Edited by MotoMan

oops got the code a bit wrong its bcpr6es

smaller gap wont increase timing!, its done to because when you increase the boost pressure it can effectively blow the spark out so closer gap makes it easy for the spark to jump across. If your coils are a bit tired the smaller gap helps also.

I doubt its R&R you really know when you hit that and it happens up about the 12psi mark

wont hurt to check your new cooler piping too if it leaks under boost the car will run really bad

+eleventy billion for safc or something

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins
I doubt its R&R you really know when you hit that and it happens up about the 12psi mark

Sorry, mine did hit R&R with exactly the same mods as Peter described, and running stock boost. There was absolutely no doubt that I had hit it either.

And it is a Series 1 R33 also...

As an aside, the coils in a vehicle that age would be getting a tad tired.

Sorry, mine did hit R&R with exactly the same mods as Peter described, and running stock boost. There was absolutely no doubt that I had hit it either.

fair enough.

stange how each car can be so different, I have same mods also minus the turbo tech, I cranked my boost up and up till i hit the R&R just to see what it felt like (not cool)

I find it hard to believe that you hit it with stock boost though but I have been proven wrong many many times before

Edited by SevenAngryPenguins

The other thing it might be is a vacuum leak?

I had a very annoying misfire/cutting out issue and I tried all the above (SAFC II retune, changed AFM, Splitfire coils, new 0.8mm plugs) with no luck, turned out to be a really small cut in one of my joiners. With your new intercooler, and other bits teeing off boost lines. I figured there might be a small chance this is it.

More likely to be one of the other solutions in other posts but still worth checking I guess.

Sorry, mine did hit R&R with exactly the same mods as Peter described, and running stock boost. There was absolutely no doubt that I had hit it either.

And it is a Series 1 R33 also...

As an aside, the coils in a vehicle that age would be getting a tad tired.

Edited by aaron_25t

Definately a tuning problem, youve increased the airflow/density accross the board

Yes the stock ECU has room to move; adding a pod or slightly bigger FMIC is ok, but the combination of the two coupled with higher boost pressures is just crazy- especially if you expect it to work hunky dory

Get a SAFC2, PFC, or EMU

Edited by Jmaac

Before trying anything just try gap the spark plugs down...its free and easy to do and youve got nothing to loose really. safc blah blah all cost money. I have had the spark blow out before sounds like the same story here, but cars are funny things..

hey mate i have just been through the same shit, you do need to gap down the plugs. but your ECU wont like the new mods at all. in the end i had to get...

PFC

z32

bigger fuel pump

highflow injectors

and of corse a tune

and im still having boost problems.

the morel of the story is, if you mod 1 thing you need to mod the rest!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Either the WG is reaching full opening, or it is not. The "it is not" case could only occur if there was not enough time available to swing the valve fully open during that boost event. I would consider that to be unlikely, as this is a commercial product that is in use elsewhere, so it really should work. But in your case, because there is definitely SOMETHING wrong, it should not be assumed that things like that are working as they should. You should put a video camera where it can see the actuator (if at all possible) during a run to see how far it is moving.
    • I think you're mostly on the ball there. With the straight gate, I suspect the weight of the spring will determine how quickly the gate can close, when not run with active pressure drive on both sides of the diaphragm. Otherwise, with drive on both sides of the diaphragm, you could almost go without a spring at all, only needing one to make sure that the thing was actually closed while completely off boost and not having pressure available to drive it closed. Butterfly valves have mostly symmetric loading when there is flow going through them, meaning that the gas hitting the upstream part of the blade is balanced by the gas hitting the downstream part of the blade, which means you don't need actuator torque to overcome any non-symmetric flow induced loads. But the gas flow does impart a purely normal load against the shaft, which transfers into the bush/bearing at each end of the shaft and does increase the torque required to make the shaft turn. Only a little, but it is there. I have no feeling for the amount of force involved in a WG application, but it certainly could make an argument for a decent spring weight being required. But all of this is just peripheral to the actual problem here.
    • The answer to this would be I followed the documentation from Turbosmart which said each spring pressure could achieve a maximum of 5x it's rated pressure so the included smallest spring being the 6psi had a range up to 30psi. I went with the 12 because I figured it'd likely hover around 15psi as a base pressure however I was obviously wrong.    I have a log here that I'll dig out that is purely wastegate and no Mac valve controlling anything.   If it can't hold anywhere near 12psi, does that mean the straight gate is virtually wide open during a run? Or am I thinking about this all wrong.   I could Tee Piece into the cooler pipe pre intercooler where the wastegate gets its feed, and send that to the ecu and see how that reads, I just don't have a spare pressure sensor currently that's all.
    • lol nice, I wouldn't worry about sanding back the filler to check for rust then. Yep very much a thing. Personally I don't do the panel beating, its very easy to have a panel beater sort that out for you. If they aren't doing any prep work the actual panel beating generally doesn't take long at all.  Have you taken before pictures before you started this project? I'd be keen to see the before and afters when you're done.
    • Some good discussion in here, for the most part I can't really add too much to it - thought I'd add some notes to the datalog screen shot that probably aren't news to anyone but a good prop... this is assuming 25psi-ish should be the boost ceiling given the first post refers to 23psi.   To state the obvious, this issue seems super weird.  Turbo speed seems pretty lethagic to build, like the turbo isn't getting as much drive as it needs - and it doesn't help that wgdc keeps rising AFTER boost target then completely shuts duty at a point, which in theory should have the straight gate dump heaps past the turbo and funnily enough causes the huge drop off.  It seems like pretty blunt boost control tuning but I'd not call that the primary issue, so much as possibly not helping the situation. I'm curious, what does a pull look like with purely mechanical boost control?  Like purely wastegate?   There are things in this log and story that make it sound like there could be a significant restriction in the intercooler piping or something - but then it's also overshooting boost target which is NOT what you'd expect with a restriction.   I can see where people are coming from with the non-linear wastegate bypass (not that any valves are linear for this kind of thing), but it still doesn't make sense that it can't hold <20psi on a 12psi spring.    Have you, or can you try measuring pressure pre-intercooler?  Be pretty interesting to see what's happening there vs in the intake manifold - sorry if I've repeated old ground, I've kinda skimmed over but I could have missed something.  In terms of comments regarding the wg spring being closer to boost target, I haven't used a straight gate but part of the reason for having close to wg target is about fighting backpressure as well - I might be wrong, but I'd have thought that part of the point of using a butterfly valve like the straight gate does you actually don't have to resist pressure at all, on EITHER side of the gate.   It shouldn't need too much leverage to start opening, the spring being more to do with where it triggers opening as opposed to resisting boost & EMAP, though smarter people can correct me if I'm wrong there.  
×
×
  • Create New...