Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got a KEAS shift kit installed in my R33 auto. Gear changes are lightning fast and it cherp's second no worries. Shifting from 1st to 2nd can be harsh at low speed but overall impressive. What i want to know is, are these shift kits safe or will my auto box terminate in the near future? I could not imagine a transmission company like KEAS making these shifters for auto transmissions if they were a ticking time bomb.

Overall very impressive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203634-shift-kit-in-4-speed-auto-r33/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

as i understand the kits reduces flaring of gears, thus reducing wear

i can see that it might increase temperatures though, so have you considered a trans cooler?

i ran a shift kit and trans cooelr on my R32GTSt auto for about 1.5years and it ws perfectly fine :(

$385 for the unit. Takes about 2 hr to do. Box has lasted so far 3 weeks! still going strong. I think i will get myself a big trans cooler, they are cheep as.

Any one know a good size cooler to get?

Pipe size? and where is the best place to install it?

i mounted mine just behind the front bar infront of the drivers side front wheel.

get as big as you can fit.i got a V8 size one.but there is bigger still.

Just get the same size line as the outlets on the cooler,it will say it on the box.

  • 1 month later...
Just got a KEAS shift kit installed in my R33 auto. Gear changes are lightning fast and it cherp's second no worries. Shifting from 1st to 2nd can be harsh at low speed but overall impressive. What i want to know is, are these shift kits safe or will my auto box terminate in the near future? I could not imagine a transmission company like KEAS making these shifters for auto transmissions if they were a ticking time bomb.

Overall very impressive.

hey man

my name is nathan. i am planning of building a burnout car, using a vl commodore body and bolting a rb25det engine into it. i dont want to run a manual bearbox, as i was thinkin about using a r33 gts-t auto trans box, torque converter and flexplate. what are the auto trans boxes like? do you know of anybody that does tricking up of the autotrans boxes so they can take a bit of a thrashing for doing burnouts? please let me know dude. very much appreciated. cheers

nathan.

far as i know, less heat is generated from autos with shift kits due to less slippage on clutches in them, therefore less heat. its the diff you have to worry about. all the hard shifting is not good for them.

hey everyone do you know if these shift kits are available in the US or if anyone of the shops over there would be willing to ship one to teh states if so email me slimseidel@yahoo.com thanks a million im not sure but i think i have a 4 speed auto early series 2 like a 95 ecr33 with series 2 motor

ive had my shift kit from mike at mv automatics for like 9months maybe a year and it has been fine i always check fluid in auto to see if it was burning but its still a nice red color

spun me out the first time i got back in the car from mike take off and changes gear alot more solid fills good when you give a little test and chirps my 19 no worries but be careful in the wet he will say i can vouch for that.

get it and see what a real auto feels like. :P

hasnt screwed my box or diff yet

  • 3 years later...

hey everyone do you know if these shift kits are available in the US or if anyone of the shops over there would be willing to ship one to teh states if so email me slimseidel@yahoo.com thanks a million im not sure but i think i have a 4 speed auto early series 2 like a 95 ecr33 with series 2 motor

Mike ships all over the world:

MV Automatics

1 Stirling Rd, Blackwood, SA 5051

p: (08) 83700430

Hey im looking at getting a shift kit around the ipswich brisbane toowoomba area, and whats involved in installing these kits or alternativly what businesses would install them and does anyone have a rough estimate on price? (wow thats alot of questions :P)

  • 5 months later...

i have one of these kits, gearbox lasted me about 3 years, now the clutches in the 3/4 drum are gone and up for over 2k worth of repairs. so it does take its toll on the car, it was making 225rwkw, and rebuilt it and made 255rwkw and started to slip on the dyno.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
×
×
  • Create New...