Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Full exhaust with tuned length front pipes, and an ECU with the speed limited and I assume a few other things altered, and that is it power wise.

But your right one tap of the throttle and shes right on boost, I guess it's because I'm still in the early part of the ownership cycle where you notice every little thing about the way your car drives, what the gauges are doing and when etc.

At the moment I have done a mix of highway and stop start driving and I have done ~260K's on half a tank so thats about 12.5L/100K's with normal driving.

I find that not fanging it when cold does wonders for the fuel consumption. Generally I try to avoid giving it to the car when the oil temp gauge is below 70c, that way things are up to operating temp.

You will get poor fuel ecconomy if you use 5th gear at speeds slower than 90km/h, I know some people who use it at 50/60kmh!

Not necessarily - I use 5th gear at 60km/h if I'm holding speed and/or the road is going downhill. The motor isn't labouring at all, in fact it cruises along quite nicely. It's actually pretty surprising how little throttle is needed to hold it at 60 in top gear, unless of course the road rises, in which case you use 4th (or 3rd if it's a hill rather than a rise). Personally, I've found as a general rule of thumb, if I can go another gear higher and not use any more throttle (or even less sometimes, as it doesn't need as many revs) then it'll use less fuel. You can sort of just tell when the engine is happy at a particular rev - do what the car feels like it likes. That's just the way I drive though, it won't work for everyone.

Mine gets given the herbs fairly regularly, and it's very unusual for it not to get at least 450-500km out of a tank, with the majority of that being ligth city driving (driving in the city but not much traffic). Most I've ever got from 65L is around 950km... all highway driving, and it was on the Xmas/NY holiday, on the way to the North Coast, up one of the most ridiculously over-policed highways in the state (Bruce H'way).

hehe that was me who used 5th at 50-60km/h. I stopped doin that now, but still didn't really improve economy. A new 02 sensor and i got about 30km more and still to do a new crank angle sensor. Currently gettin 330-350km from a tank with cat back, bov and filter.....stock boost.

  • 3 weeks later...

I've been keeping a log recently and have got the following figures:

DATE | PRICE PER LITRE | NO. LITRES | TOTAL $ | DISTANCE | L/100km

22/10/02 | 96.7c/L | 26.75L | $25.87 | 218.3km | 12.254

26/10/02 | 97.7c/L | 47.41L | $46.32 | 384km | 12.346

29/10/02 | 93.7c/L | 47.29L | $44.31 | 395.0km | 11.972

All distances include heavy trafic, while the last entry included the cruise down the wollongong on the 27th.

What sort of figures are people getting with tuned Power FCs under similar conditions? I'm aiming at getting one in december after my final exam ever at uni (if I pass).

I have a air filter, exhaust, razo sticker, and standard boost.

Mark

sir ricelot you forgot to tell everyone you get those economy figures on *REGULAR UNLEADED*

*gasp*

i got 400 easily per tank, sometimes 500..........even got 700 once and i drive like a frigging maniac, go the s15s :D (this is on 12psi too)

you perth boys must remember that city driving in perth (or canberra etc) is about the same as highway driving in sydney, the same level of traffic stop start etc.

there is no comparison for peak hour traffic in sydney, unless you're comparing speeds with the push bike weaving thru traffic, in which he eaaaaaaaaaaasily wins........damn onarun and his bike.

  • 2 months later...

can i just add here, yes after 3 months...a powerfc has made no difference to fuel efficiency, however, i do have 500nm of torque over the whole rev range!? :P

for the sake of the original question asked....reset your ecu, try and use the same petrol brand, bp ultimate or whatever and manage your right foot....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...