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I just ran a bleed valve with my gate.

Ideally your gate spring should be as close to the boost you want, and then you dont need a EBC at all as the wastegate is doing it job correctly by regulating the boost off the spring.

If you have a 10psi spring, and run 20psi boost, your going to have it gate creeping in almost every gear

Sorry but this just isn't the case. While I agree it is a good idea to run as close a spring as your desired boost level, your comment implies that the gate won't open at all until the spring pressure boost level is reached. This isn't how it works in reality.

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Sorry but this just isn't the case. While I agree it is a good idea to run as close a spring as your desired boost level, your comment implies that the gate won't open at all until the spring pressure boost level is reached. This isn't how it works in reality.

Thats exactly what i was thinking. I thought the job of the ebc was to keep the gate closed until it reaches the boost pressure you want and then open it up.

BTW is the eboost2 dual solenoid?

Mike.

Thats exactly what i was thinking. I thought the job of the ebc was to keep the gate closed until it reaches the boost pressure you want and then open it up.

BTW is the eboost2 dual solenoid?

Mike.

That's not exactly how you'd set it up in the real world but you're on the right track. In general most people set the Gate Pressure value a couple of pound below the Set Point (boost level) they're after. I'm speaking 'Turbosmart-speak' but you get the idea. Not opening the gate until you get to your desired final boost level can create spiking as the gate opens too late to control the rapidly rising boost level. In a perfect world the situation you describe would be the idea though.

eBoost2 uses a single solenoid. I have superior boost control since using an eBoost2 than when I ran a Blitz Dual SBC although the difference is probably in the settings. Don't get caught up in the whole two solenoids deal.

im pretty sure 220kw is never goin to get u into the high 12's, im pretty sure u will need at least 300kw with some nice semi slicks to pull somethin in the 12's with a 33. unless u gut ur car. my car made 209rwkw, i got a 2.01 60ft time with 265/35/18 federal 595 tyres and still only managed to get a 14.01. i could of probably got a 13.9 or a lil lower with the stock rims with some nice street tyres.

im pretty sure 220kw is never goin to get u into the high 12's, im pretty sure u will need at least 300kw with some nice semi slicks to pull somethin in the 12's with a 33. unless u gut ur car. my car made 209rwkw, i got a 2.01 60ft time with 265/35/18 federal 595 tyres and still only managed to get a 14.01. i could of probably got a 13.9 or a lil lower with the stock rims with some nice street tyres.

what MPH did you run this time at?

thats more like our skylines times, however for 210rwkw i would expect a better time. Depends on your MPH though?

im pretty sure 220kw is never goin to get u into the high 12's, im pretty sure u will need at least 300kw with some nice semi slicks to pull somethin in the 12's with a 33.

Nope. R33 GTST, full weight 3240lbs (1472kg), five-speed manual, std turbo and normal mods, just like most on the road.

190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.81 60', 12.799 @ 108mph, regular shitty old Falken Ziex rubbish

190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.73 60', 12.666 @ 107mph, Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials (drag radials)

Nope. R33 GTST, full weight 3240lbs (1472kg), five-speed manual, std turbo and normal mods, just like most on the road.

190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.81 60', 12.799 @ 108mph, regular shitty old Falken Ziex rubbish

190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.73 60', 12.666 @ 107mph, Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials (drag radials)

I have no idea how you guys get those kinds of times, but they sound extremely unrealistic most places. I reckon a high 13 at ~103mph with 190-195rwkw and maybe a low 13 with MickyT drag radials would be a decent target with a decent driver etc in any tracks/dynos I have come to know.

1.81 60ft on shitty road tires just messes with my head - I have no idea what you did there. Are you running 90:10s etc?

I have no idea how you guys get those kinds of times, but they sound extremely unrealistic most places. I reckon a high 13 at ~103mph with 190-195rwkw and maybe a low 13 with MickyT drag radials would be a decent target with a decent driver etc in any tracks/dynos I have come to know.

1.81 60ft on shitty road tires just messes with my head - I have no idea what you did there. Are you running 90:10s etc?

They're as realistic as the timeslip they're printed on, mate. They don't 'sound' like anything because they're a fact of life. I was running the same mph and exactly the same setup but 14.3's once upon a time - it's all about practice. I must have 5 or 600 timeslips from this car in boxes and folders lying around the place so don't write-off the benefit of getting to know your car and trying things.

The suspension is the full Whiteline kit - hard as buggery and zero adjustment to help launching.

the boy is correct, keep a good eye on that clutch, you are running it at its upper power limit.

Have had them fitted to many a customer car making mid 200kw, ask much more of them and they turn.

Jim berry Race Clutch........

i doubt it. i should be able to realise if its slipping. it puts the power down in every gear. im thinking its got more to do with it dropping a bit of boost going into 3rd gear.

I actually brought the clutch off andrew and he told me it would be fine for 270rwkw.

Will probably change cams and get a boost controller for it to see if i can bring the boost on a little earlier.

Mike.

Lol i wouldnt call a the falkens shitty if they are getting you a 1.8 60ft!!!!!

Do you guys run on prepped tracks (with the glue to help launches?)

Our tracks up here are far below par of that down south and therefore i think thats why our times suffer alot more then down south. Add in the heat etc, QLD sucks!

Lol i wouldnt call a the falkens shitty if they are getting you a 1.8 60ft!!!!!

Do you guys run on prepped tracks (with the glue to help launches?)

Our tracks up here are far below par of that down south and therefore i think thats why our times suffer alot more then down south. Add in the heat etc, QLD sucks!

1.8 sucks compared to low 1.6's, man. That's half a second in the deep end.

The track is glued but it really makes stuff all difference with poor tyres. It's all about practice. Everyone seems to think that just because their car makes XXXhp that they should be able to run XX seconds all day. It's just not so.

However as mentioned earlier, I personally have an internal wastegate - the reason I had not bothered with any other kind of boost control is that I thought the gate should close enough to do its job. Apparently I was well wrong, Cubes runs a similar internal gate setup and gets similar - before it reaches its sprung pressure it creeps open and slows the rate it builds the last few psi quite severly.

i meant external gate :P

internal gates are a different story

im pretty sure 220kw is never goin to get u into the high 12's, im pretty sure u will need at least 300kw with some nice semi slicks to pull somethin in the 12's with a 33. unless u gut ur car. my car made 209rwkw, i got a 2.01 60ft time with 265/35/18 federal 595 tyres and still only managed to get a 14.01. i could of probably got a 13.9 or a lil lower with the stock rims with some nice street tyres.

well i don't have as much experience as 2rismo and i'm a pretty average driver, i've been to like 3 different dyno days with my current setup and it showed figures from 220-230rwkw.

check my sig for mid to high 12's

i reckon if you got yourself a set of nice light 16" rims you'll be pulling better times those 18" wheels are HEAVY AS.

1.8 sucks compared to low 1.6's, man. That's half a second in the deep end.

The track is glued but it really makes stuff all difference with poor tyres. It's all about practice. Everyone seems to think that just because their car makes XXXhp that they should be able to run XX seconds all day. It's just not so.

Yeh i know that, just wondering how you guys do it. Thats a cracker launch for up here, basically thats all the GTRs can pull with a great launch and hardly any spinnage. Up here those times just arent possible :blush:

Its just practice mate... I was doing 1.9 60ft's on 225 street tyres... so not large width by any means.

Its just knowing how much throttle, when and how to play the clutch... its like a balancing act between how much clutch/throttle.

As you dont just dial in 7000rpm and let the clutch go, you wont go anywhere :blush:

thats just the thing, with the correct tyre and pressure, you should be able to just dump it. thats how you get 1.7 & 1.6 sixty foot times. this is also y u break rear drive shafts. you should not be able to turn the tyres. when u start breaking driveline components, u know u are getting traction.

Its just practice mate... I was doing 1.9 60ft's on 225 street tyres... so not large width by any means.

Its just knowing how much throttle, when and how to play the clutch... its like a balancing act between how much clutch/throttle.

As you dont just dial in 7000rpm and let the clutch go, you wont go anywhere :D

Yeh i know its a balancing act. The funny thing is (and stupidly) as soon as the light drops I loose all of my planning and end up stuffing the launch haha. Ive only raced probably 15 times though, in two different cars. It will come to me, just gotta practice and be patient. I still havnt seen anyone get under 2 seconds on street tires! thats impressive!

Nismoid if your ever in Qld its your job to get my car to do at least a 2 second flat 60 lol!

Edited by Granthem
I have no idea how you guys get those kinds of times, but they sound extremely unrealistic most places. I reckon a high 13 at ~103mph with 190-195rwkw and maybe a low 13 with MickyT drag radials would be a decent target with a decent driver etc in any tracks/dynos I have come to know.

1.81 60ft on shitty road tires just messes with my head - I have no idea what you did there. Are you running 90:10s etc?

190-195rwkw doesnt equate to 103mph. You should be at least around the 106-107mph mark.

190-195rwkw doesnt equate to 103mph. You should be at least around the 106-107mph mark.

Yes it does. Depending on the track and dyno, I've got an pretty damn good "hit rate" on predicting ETs and trap speeds here. You guys just have weird reading dynos :ninja:

thats just the thing, with the correct tyre and pressure, you should be able to just dump it. thats how you get 1.7 & 1.6 sixty foot times. this is also y u break rear drive shafts. you should not be able to turn the tyres. when u start breaking driveline components, u know u are getting traction.

Well yeah i agree, on sticky tyres your going to get 1.6's, that's expected and big RPM launches.

If your using dedicated street rubber that isn't gonna happen and its a very fine line i found to get a sub 2 sec 60ft.

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