Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes camber is the key, I have camber on the rears but only due to the lowering, how quickly do you go through tyres, I was basically planning on getting smaller tyres.

I have not hit front or rears except for big mups since rolling the rears and taking the liners off the front and bending the tabs up.

How much were your adjustale camber arms ? for the rears

Nice car to mate, does anyone know if you need to cover the small wiring under the left hand front liners ?

Nice car to mate.

I am going to take the rims off this weekend and put the stockers back on, then leave them off until i get a good solution.

Just not sure what that is these are my options I think:

1-Camber with exisiting rear tyres but they will wear out quickly

2-Smaller tyres 235 or 245.

3-Both of the above

4-Buy a Nissan pulsar and have an easy automotove life lol

Edited by Mark0

not reading whole thread so dont know if this has been said or if u sorted it. Get castor rods and put more castor on. That will move your front tyres forward. Making for better handling and no scrubbing. And get coilovers if u dont have them, car might not aborb bumps so much and wont scrub casue will be stiffer

I have the white line camber kit on mine ( front & rear) didn't need to go adjustable camber arms. Depends on how much you drive. if you do about 15000k's a year then that should be ok, my car is only a weekend warrior so doesn't bother me. i wouldn't worry about it rubbing the guard liner so much, they are flexible and won't do any damage to the tyres.

Having castor on the front will help turn in, however your front tyres will rub under full lock. i just got a heat gun and moulded the liner (when its hot) to accommodate for the rubbing & worked a treat

Yer I have tein Super Street coil overs, Think I will go changing the tyres options, Camber arms fitted will cost me about 395 but I think I would need a lot of camber to get them under my gaurds, thus increasing tyre wear pretty badly

I am still undsecided what to do, is the law on the wheel under the rime that it needs to be under the top of the guard only ? My mate at Bearepairs said the law now is that the tyre needs to be under the guard not the rim, either way I might post a pic of the amount it sticks out and see if you guys think that camber is the way to go or if ity would require to much camber.

How quickly do you go through a set of rear tyres n1

  • 5 years later...

if its only the plastics cut them back, i did that for mine (r33 GTST)... better

flairing and pumping of guards are expensive, rolling of the guards just end up a mess, you will end up in tears

i've just lowered my coilovers (90mm ground to chassis) but the front tyres are scrubbing the guards, do the plastic linings of the guards do much or will it not matter if i take them off?

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm pretty much the same, I have 17x10 RPF1's +18 and 275/40/17's on the back and the inner guard lip does cut into the side wall of the tyre if i have passengers in the back or hard cornering at the track.

Recommendation Sydney Area :- "Sydney Guard Rolling"

Proprietor :- Nelson

Work Done :- Flaring/Pumping/Rolling

Convenience:- Mobile Service

Contact :- 0432109331

Referred to Me By:- Wholesale Suspension

My Story:- My 'new' EVO has had new 8.75" wide rims with new RE002 rubber put on > scrubbing at the rears with the guard lips cutting into the tyres' side walls whenever I have passengers.

Nelson got to my place by 3.50pm and worked on these guards by attaching a hub bracket and carefully applying a roller.

He was very very patient due to his concern over the likelihood of cracking paint (due to previous nicki applied).

Nelson worked on it till sundown > no cracked paint > cost was $150 > terry - happy

Recommendation Sydney Area :- "Sydney Guard Rolling"

Proprietor :- Nelson

Work Done :- Flaring/Pumping/Rolling

Convenience:- Mobile Service

Contact :- 0432109331

Referred to Me By:- Wholesale Suspension

My Story:- My 'new' EVO has had new 8.75" wide rims with new RE002 rubber put on > scrubbing at the rears with the guard lips cutting into the tyres' side walls whenever I have passengers.

Nelson got to my place by 3.50pm and worked on these guards by attaching a hub bracket and carefully applying a roller.

He was very very patient due to his concern over the likelihood of cracking paint (due to previous nicki applied).

Nelson worked on it till sundown > no cracked paint > cost was $150 > terry - happy

That's definitely some useful information there. This is someone who takes pride in his work and it shows. Thanks Terry for the info and hats off to Nelson :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...