Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Went to calder last friday for the 1st time and and ran my car a few times, was wondering what sort of times other similiar cars was getting as i was going up against 11 sec cars!

My car and Mods:

1993 R33 Gts-t (Auto)

Performance mods:

Apexi N1 catback Exhuast

R34 Side mount cooler

running 9 Psi

Tyres: 17 inch rims with 245 continental tyres (about 60% thread) 22 PSI

and everything else is pretty much stock. Not tuned or anything like that.

My best time was:

14.29 @ 157 km/h

most my times was between 14.3 and 14.6 - i had about 11 runs.

I found that the car would launch hard but then die in the last 100 meters :D

i would be very happy with that time.

our skylines up north just cant seem to push the same times. different track and maybe the prep will probably be part of the reason.

what 60ft time?

hmmm really? the weather could also play a part i guess....on friday (when i went) it wasnt too bad, track temp was about 24 degrees..

60ft time was: 2.11

660' - 9.12 @ 125 km/h

That's a good time.

Are you planning to go quicker?

ye id love to break into the 13 seconds... and then i will be happy.

My car is a daily driver, ive had it for about 5 years and i've done 110,000 km's on it since ive got it...

I rekon maybe with a FMIC, high flow cat + dump pipe i could improve the top end a bit and maybe break into the high 13's!

But at the same time, as it is now, its great for day to day street driving / over taking and quicker off the line than more modified / tuned manual R33's of some of my mates and i don't know if i want to lose that to gain a few milliseconds on the drag strip!

What was your 60ft times?

Their is some easy time to be made up at a reasonable cost.

1) Get yourself a pair of R32 GTR rims (or 300ZX rims) and buy a new pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street tyres. This will lower your 60ft time without a doubt and should cost under $700.

2) Get a 1 piece front/dump pipe along with a new hiflow cat to finish off your exhaust system. You will have more power right through the rev range which will result in a higher terminal speed (currently ~94mph) and should cost under $700 as well.

What was your 60ft times?

Their is some easy time to be made up at a reasonable cost.

1) Get yourself a pair of R32 GTR rims (or 300ZX rims) and buy a new pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street tyres. This will lower your 60ft time without a doubt and should cost under $700.

2) Get a 1 piece front/dump pipe along with a new hiflow cat to finish off your exhaust system. You will have more power right through the rev range which will result in a higher terminal speed (currently ~94mph) and should cost under $700 as well.

60ft time was 2.11

thanks for the tip! ye i'm def going to invest in making the exhaust to turbo back me thinks!

Justjap have a nice deal going for you:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/JJ...RB-t204414.html

So much cheaper than I first thought, wouldn't take more than an hours labour if it is a straight fit to your existing cat-back exhaust so you should be able to have it fitted for about $500 all up.

is it losing traction on launch?

being auto and stockish, I don't think it would.

anyway.

to get something like a 13.9 (in to the 13's as you're said).. get the exhaust finished (dump pipe and front pipe in one and a new large cat).

then get an SAFC and have it tuned.

Even the blue screen SAFC would get you a good increase in power, especially in the upper end.

the Blue screen ones would be below $300 now for sure.

dump/front pipe in one can be picked up for about $200 from a number of places brand new.

SAFC tune will probably set you back about $200.

all of that easily under $1K.

should push power to near 190rwkw.

should net you 13.xx

if you are losing traction on launch, then look in to tyres too.

I would also race with 16's instead of 17's.

I dare say that your 17's with tyres would weigh more than the stockers which weigh 16kg with tyres.

EDIT - don't replace the R34 SMIC with a FMIC.

you will lose the response that you love at the moment.

it is more than up to the task.

If the R34 SMIC doesn't have any ducting to it, I would look in to making one for it.

Water spray is another option but probably not needed.

Edited by GTST
What was your 60ft times?

Their is some easy time to be made up at a reasonable cost.

1) Get yourself a pair of R32 GTR rims (or 300ZX rims) and buy a new pair of Mickey Thompson ET Street tyres. This will lower your 60ft time without a doubt and should cost under $700.

2) Get a 1 piece front/dump pipe along with a new hiflow cat to finish off your exhaust system. You will have more power right through the rev range which will result in a higher terminal speed (currently ~94mph) and should cost under $700 as well.

his current mph is more like 97

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...