Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok bright spark - why buy a 42psi pump that is going to max out straight away?

Why not be smart and get a 275lph @ 70psi pump and have peice of mind that the pump isn't going beyond its intended purpose?

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

ok bright spark - why buy a 42psi pump that is going to max out straight away?

Why not be smart and get a 275lph @ 70psi pump and have peice of mind that the pump isn't going beyond its intended purpose?

You buy the pump after looking at whether it's suitable for your application. If you only need 158lph at your desired boost level, the walbro can supply 204lph and the nismo can supply 300lph, why would you take the nismo at 3 times the price?

because the $200 255lph walboro is a 42psi pump is intended for NA applications....

So you want to put a NA fuel pump that can only handle low pressure into your turbo charged car?

A HP version of the Walboro is around the $280 - $300 mark, and is 255lph. AND you need to modify the f**k out of everything to get it to fit, and its even more of a pain in the ass when it doesn't touch the bottom of the tank.

The Nismo from Greenline is $330, is 275lph at 70psi, comes on its own bracket, has its own plug, and takes about 5 minutes to install. Oh, and it touches the bottom of the tank.

Now if you're going to go to all that trouble modifying brackets, soldering plugs and being just a general stuff around, just to save probably $50, for a pump that is about half the quality.

I'd rather Spend the extra $50, get a bigger pump, one that is designed buy manufacturer themselves (Nismo is in bed with Nissan) and something that is bullet proof.

Also, if you say "well not all of us can spare $50" then why did you buy a skyline and intend on modding it?

Edited by The Mafia

I'm not talking about the non-HP pump. I'm not even sure why that pump comes up in discussions, since it clearly was not made for turbo cars, and is marketed as being for relatively low-pressure NA applications. No-one should be putting one into a turbo skyline.

UAS in sydney sell the HP version for $240. Have you actually installed one of these? Sure the nismo is easier to install since you don't have to actually do anything, but I fitted the walbro myself and it was nowhere near the headache you're suggesting.

It's a matter of cutting the bottom plate off the stock bracket (normal wire cutters will do it), putting 2 clamps on to hold the walbro and using 2 crimp connectors to connect the wires. I'm not exaggerating how easy it was.

Also, my walbro sits lower in the tank than the stock pump.

Why do you say the walbro is lesser quality? The nismo is expensive so it must be made of unobtanium? Nismo are a bit of a jack of all trades, i'd say a manufacturer specialising in fuel pump/fuel delivery systems would have the know-how to build the highest quality pump.

Edited by govich

An N/A engine making 500 bhp will quite happily run at 8 psi with a carby (that's Low Pressure), and 38 psi with injectors (that's High Pressure). A turbo engine may need up to 72 psi to make its 500 bhp. So picking a fuel pump based on some non specific rating of "High Pressure" is useless if you are looking at a turbo application.

A fuel pump is simply an electric motor with a pump on the end of the output shaft. If you want more flow you use a bigger pump, if you want more pressure you use a larger electric motor. Pressure is directly related to the torque output of the electric motor, torque in an electric motor is directly proportional to the size of its rotor. There is no magic in electric motors, if you want more pressure you need a physically bigger motor.

Before I get into the graphs, it is worth mentioning that manufacturer's fuel pump ratings are usually done at 12 volts (battery voltage), whereas the running voltage (alternator ouput) is commonly 13.8 volts. Hence testing is often done at both voltages.

Keeping the above in mind, please tell me how anybody would think that the Walbro can get anywhere near the Bosch looking at the following picture;

boschpump.jpg

Now take a look at the flow charts noting how the Wablro drops off in flow as the pressure rises;

flowtest-walbro.gif

Do the comparison, a STANDARD R33GTR pump flows 235 l/h at 25psi compared to 210 l/h at 25 psi for the Walbro

flowtest-nissan.gif

That's the data, you make you own judgement. In case you were still wondering what I use, the race cars all have Bosch fuel pumps and the road cars have standard GTR pumps.

Cheers

Gary

That's the data, you make you own judgement. In case you were still wondering what I use, the race cars all have Bosch fuel pumps and the road cars have standard GTR pumps.

Cheers

Gary

Interesting that the stock GTR pump flows more than the walbro.

This still doesn't change the fact that if you want to run sane turbos on a (street) RB25, the walbro will perform well. It will theoretically flow enough to max out 550cc/min injectors up to about 25psi boost pressure at 13.5V (from the first graph).

I really don't understand why everyone feels compelled to have fuel pumps capable of flowing 200+lph at very high boost pressures (>30psi) in their RB25-powered whatever that will never see above 16-18psi (generalising to the majority of examples here, obviously there are extreme examples that need the flow).

Maybe it's just all the engineering lectures (and experience) steering me towards picking something that suits the application rather than allows ridiculous safety margins.

PS. I disagree with your physical size comment. There is more to an electric motor than "the size of the rotor" - number of windings, magnet strength (material density) etc. I would be willing to bet that there are fuel pumps around that are physically bigger than the walbro (as it is pretty damn small) with lesser flow capabilities. Even the stock R33 GTS25t pump is noticeably bigger.

Edited by govich
Maybe it's just all the engineering lectures (and experience) steering me towards picking something that suits the application rather than allows ridiculous safety margins.

Thats right, your engineering logic has no place here. This is import tuning, you fit wot has the biggest following and the most google hits :ninja:

There is more to an electric motor than "the size of the rotor" - number of windings, magnet strength (material density) etc. I would be willing to bet that there are fuel pumps around that are physically bigger than the walbro (as it is pretty damn small) with lesser flow capabilities. Even the stock R33 GTS25t pump is noticeably bigger.

But how likely are you to find a setup that is smaller and higher flowing? I'm imagining the windings of a 1000hp Paxton and it looks comparatively 45% larger for its higher flow (044 being 550-600hp'ish)

Edited by GeeTR
Thats right, your engineering logic has no place here. This is import tuning, you fit wot has the biggest following and the most google hits :(

But how likely are you to find a setup that is smaller and higher flowing? I'm imagining the windings of a 1000hp Paxton and it looks comparatively 45% larger for its higher flow (044 being 550-600hp'ish)

Well i gave an example, the stock R33 GTS pump is noticeably bigger than the higher flowing walbro GSS342. Having worked at repco and seen a lot of the fuel pumps they retail for everyday cars, i have to say that a large number are about the same or slightly bigger than the walbro (and flow less - generalising here and not considering pressures - because NA falcodores and corollas don't need the flow).

I'm sure Bosch could condense their pumps into smaller packaging if they tried, with the possibility of using electromagnets etc but that's a line of thinking i'm sure noone cares about :ninja: it would also hike up cost..

Edited by govich

After watching this thread for a lil bit I had just bought a walbro pump due to the signifigant saving, but my pride and joy is not worth risking on a maxed out fuel pump so im getting a Tomei pump instead, Will this outflow 555cc injectors @ 250rwkw?

After watching this thread for a lil bit I had just bought a walbro pump due to the signifigant saving, but my pride and joy is not worth risking on a maxed out fuel pump so im getting a Tomei pump instead, Will this outflow 555cc injectors @ 250rwkw?

550 injectors will be at approx 60% duty at 250 kws running a decent pump.

Hi all , I was at EvoM net yesterday and I noticed that David Burshur has come up with a twin drop in tank pump assembly for the Lancer Evo rev heads . I'm not 100% sure but the way he talks it sounds like his Burshur Racing has found a way to get more from those Walbro 255 pumps in turbo apps .

Do those Walbro pumps have some internal high pressure relief valve by any chance ? I suppose if they did and BR found a way to cork it it may be the cheapie option for a new pump or pumps .

Also BTW their assembly includes a spiffy right angled bulkhead fitting to get the second pumps seperate wiring through the assemblys steel lid . I'd be interested to know what it is because with that it would be easy to run a secondary pump in a Skyline . Also the system has a "Y" piece above the two pumps outlet feeding a single outlet . What they do is wire relays to bring the second pump online in times of high demand . The downside is what if the wiring/relay failed and the secondaryt didn't start ? Bang ?

I'll see Iif I can find the pic , cheers A .

After a bit of searching I found a couple of links to interesting pump stuff . Hope they work - links .

Firstly under this heading - What your Evo needsfor a fuel system, facts .

http://wwwforums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=245064

Fuel Pump Upgrade Guide

http://mkiv.com/techarticles/fuel_pumps_test_2/index.html

Chinese Copies on E Bay .

http://www.fuel-pumps.net/walbro-forgeries.html

If these links don't work could someone more computer literate than me please help out .

Interesting reads , cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...