Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cusco used to do a fixed length upper front suspension arm for the Gt-R (Amongst others) Are they still available as I am after some, preferably in a -10mm length or less at a pinch. For a 32 model.

I looked but there does not appear to be anyone listing them presently.

And yes I have seen the adjustable ones. Also the Whiteline gear.

post-5134-1202190204_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204629-cusco-suspension-arms/
Share on other sites

man you are lucky. I came home to find a bit of parquetry floor lifting from all the moisture we've had. so I grabbed a set of turbos to weigh it down. that wasn't enough so I grabbed a pile of goods masters (I have a lot) and right on top was the 2007 cusco one!

Cusco BNR32 GTR front upper control arm. fixed length, -10mm = 231 479 AD

AC is -5mm

AB is standard

AA is + 5mm

now post me those bonnet liner clips!

you're kidding richard, bonnet liner clips? we removed 2 liners last week - how many do you need.

+1 for bryy's question - why not adjustables?

1 would be sufficient, 2 would be gravy. I'll even promise not to tax your beers next time we are at dinner (providing of course fatz doesn't tax mine)...

and to answer the other questions my guess is he's run out of adjustment with whatever arms he's using now. I know my midori type ones touched in the middle with only about 2.5neg (could mod them for more). the noltec ones I have now are good, but again, they are as short as they go and give me 3 neg. again, could probably mod them for more if need be. but I guess if you are happy with a certain set-up then fixed is the go.

anyway, you are a gingerbeer, just cut and weld the ones you have now you lazy bastard.

right - but a better way to manage front camber is longer lower control arms, not shorter upper control arms, less reduction of track that way. Not normally a problem but if standard style ones are too long....

Hmm, this went ape shit in my absence.

1. Baron I sent you a packet of clips (or was that chips?) before Christmas, but didn't re-check the address before I posted it. If Druncan can't find any I will have another go (after checking the address).

2. Rain? What the fk is rain?

3. I don't like the adjustable arms because I worry that in a moment of kerb hopping excess the rather insipid clamping bolts (that dictate the length) will give up their unequal struggle.

4. Yes I have run out of adjustment on my Whiteline ones. The outer adjuster is wound all the way in & I even had made an offset pin for the inner arm.

5. Duncan, what do you recommend for the longer, lower arm?

6. 32 & 33 arms are fundamentally different.

very succintly put.

there are a few people making front LCAs for R32s. ikeya springs to mind, but to be honest their arms don't impress me nearly as much as cusco ones. if cusco make a front LCA for R32 then buy that for sure. looks like I'll have to unweight the floor again briefly tonight. nagisa auto make them too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...