Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've done a few searches, and I've had a read through this thread about body roll: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...ice-t77262.html

Basically, I want to start improving the handling of my R33, reducing some body roll. And I'm on a fairly tight budget (lol, don't they all say that). This car is a street driven daily driver for 99% of the time, so I'm thinking a combination of swaybars and (down the track when I've saved up) upgraded shocks/springs should give me the desired result.

Currently, the car is bog standard in the handling department, other than front and rear strut braces. Power-wise, I'd say it's around the 160-170rwkw mark, with plans to go as high as 200rwkw.

What would you guys suggest?

Edited by bnew
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204672-my-first-suspension-mod/
Share on other sites

If you check out the group buy section with the r33 suspension from Gary - sydney kid - theres some good info and parts there.

I did springs and shocks first

then sway bars and front caster

then f n r camber and rear subframe align kit

If I could do it again - Id go the sway bars first!

I did sway bars. (Whiteline)

Then springs/dampers/caster/camber. (Whiteline/Bilstein)

Then more camber. (Home made stuff)

Then more springs. (Eibach/Bilstein)

Then more sway bars.(Cusco)

And I haven't finished yet.

Best advice is to think carefully about where you want to end up & listen to some of the good advice you will get on this forums. But in doing so recognise that what some people like may not suit you and what suits some circumstances may not suit yours.

If you can do some research on how everything works & what changes have what effects you will be much better placed to understand peoples advice. I mean I have seen some shops recommend 10 & 8 kg/mm spring rates for the street for an R33.....so you can't take it all on trust.

Thanks guys, appreciate the advice. I want to try and avoid being someone who spends all their time and effort making my car go faster, without making it turn and stop better :banana:

Agreed about research- my initial first thought was due to research on SAU, on other sites and talking to people I know that have experience in this area. Can never be too well informed.

Swaybars are the best 1st suspension mod, you will feel the difference immediately.

I have a set of whitline swaybars and they transformed the handling of the car.

Also put whiteline springs and koni yellow shocks, which gave the car a nice drop and handles extremely well with no body roll at all.

I would suggest checking the condition of your bushes first, particularly front castor bushes. If these are worn or in poor condition I woudl replace those first. Then purchase the swaybars.

Yeah, was thinking of doing something like that too actually. Is there anyone on here that sells complete bushes sets? I had a look in the for sale section but I couldn't really see any.

EDIT: Never mind, Ministry of Bass to the rescue :(

Edited by bnew
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...