Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Quite a reasonable outcome. Torque curve below 4500rpm would be more pleasing if it was filled out a bit more.

Stock 25DET turbo fitted? What boost level?

Sounds like the exhaust is relatively de-restricted too; noise levels not over the top?

There's a little bit of literature out there about high compression and forced aspiration that guides on effective static compression. Basic outcome is that there is a boost level at which your 10:1 engine will see a rapid increase in "effective" compression and head towards/over the detonation threshold. Be careful if you want to push further.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3626779
Share on other sites

Quite a reasonable outcome. Torque curve below 4500rpm would be more pleasing if it was filled out a bit more.

Stock 25DET turbo fitted? What boost level?

Sounds like the exhaust is relatively de-restricted too; noise levels not over the top?

There's a little bit of literature out there about high compression and forced aspiration that guides on effective static compression. Basic outcome is that there is a boost level at which your 10:1 engine will see a rapid increase in "effective" compression and head towards/over the detonation threshold. Be careful if you want to push further.

8.5psi but i've added a turbo elbow downpipe,tubular manifold and splitfire coilpacks and thats it i'm hoping i have not got to lower the boost as it will raise up
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3626797
Share on other sites

thats pretty respectable.

im a bit picky. but i would try to get that torque curve smoothed out.

p.s. bloody good work on the intake manifold. never thought of doing that. saves $1000+ when u dont need a greddy plenum

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3627494
Share on other sites

thats pretty respectable.

im a bit picky. but i would try to get that torque curve smoothed out.

yeah but remmeber this is a dynapack dyno which gives different looking graphs, more emphasised than DD they are more sensitive... in a good way. Hence why i ordered one :ermm:

p.s. bloody good work on the intake manifold. never thought of doing that. saves $1000+ when u dont need a greddy plenum

:banana:

yeah its actually not great, in this application it will suffice but we flow tested and thermo-coupled a couple and there is a huge variance in flow to cyls 1 thru 6... a big differrence. there is just no real way of doing it properly, without going to another top half or complete plenum.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3628039
Share on other sites

thats pretty respectable.

im a bit picky. but i would try to get that torque curve smoothed out.

p.s. bloody good work on the intake manifold. never thought of doing that. saves $1000+ when u dont need a greddy plenum

:D

i doubt that torque curve could get much better. Most of the de+t setups have all the timing ripped out down low to help it stop pinging when its coming onto boost because of the cr.

Not a bad result though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3628862
Share on other sites

yeah but remmeber this is a dynapack dyno which gives different looking graphs, more emphasised than DD they are more sensitive... in a good way. Hence why i ordered one :D

yeah its actually not great, in this application it will suffice but we flow tested a couple and there is a huge variance in flow to cyls 1 thru 6... a big differrence. there is just no real way of doing it properly, without going to another top half or complete plenum.

theres lots of these plenums over here with no probs,and theres no way you would get as much power from it as you would a greddy one because its only got a standard throttle body,i have got a greddy type one but theres no point in using it until i lower the cr or blow it up and put a rb25det engine in it or if i smash the car i'll just buy a gtst and swap the bits over and in the meantime its all fun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3629120
Share on other sites

Looks dodgy to me. Still using the stock intake runners, which are designed to take the feed from the middle of the plenum.

when under boost the whole plenum is pressurised and not all intake valves open at once these intake runners are designed to suck not have air forced in them,i've heard on a forum somewhere theres been tests on these mods and the greddy one only took over at high bhp can't remember what the figure was or where it was but this engine will never get great figures with a high cr,ah and it costs nothing to do if you know a welder

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3629121
Share on other sites

Check out this little guide

post-19642-1202336625_thumb.jpg

High compression forced aspiration cars are a little (lot) more fussy when it comes to making them detonation proof. That high effective static compression ratio indicator shows that a 10:1 engine will probably take a LOT less timing across the entire range of on-boost load. So in some respects what's being gained through the compression is being lost through comparatively retarded timing when looking at the 9:1 DET spec.

i doubt that torque curve could get much better. Most of the de+t setups have all the timing ripped out down low to help it stop pinging when its coming onto boost because of the cr.

That's what it is all about. :D

and in the meantime its all fun

I agree, and while it may lack a bit of the bling etc, if it works effectively and you suffer no driveability or reliability at this level of tune then run with that manifold setup. Not how I would do it, but that's just my view.

this engine will never get great figures with a high cr,ah and it costs nothing to do if you know a welder

FWIW, below is a graph of my DET with light mods and small-spec high flow. 300hp, with boost peaking at 13psi and tapering to 12psi. If you have 10 minutes, plot the points from one graph to another (yeah, I know, not directly comparable...) but you can pretty much see the difference. Same sort of max power number, but the 9:1 engine has bucketloads more from 3200-5800 where you drive it.

post-19642-1202336677_thumb.jpg

That is a function of the mass flow capacity of the turbocharger at differing pressure ratios - the high comp engine just won't let you pump too much in before it reacts with knock. :)

Hope that adds constructively to your setup and understanding differences.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3629243
Share on other sites

Check out this little guide

post-19642-1202336625_thumb.jpg

High compression forced aspiration cars are a little (lot) more fussy when it comes to making them detonation proof. That high effective static compression ratio indicator shows that a 10:1 engine will probably take a LOT less timing across the entire range of on-boost load. So in some respects what's being gained through the compression is being lost through comparatively retarded timing when looking at the 9:1 DET spec.

That's what it is all about. :no:

I agree, and while it may lack a bit of the bling etc, if it works effectively and you suffer no driveability or reliability at this level of tune then run with that manifold setup. Not how I would do it, but that's just my view.

FWIW, below is a graph of my DET with light mods and small-spec high flow. 300hp, with boost peaking at 13psi and tapering to 12psi. If you have 10 minutes, plot the points from one graph to another (yeah, I know, not directly comparable...) but you can pretty much see the difference. Same sort of max power number, but the 9:1 engine has bucketloads more from 3200-5800 where you drive it.

post-19642-1202336677_thumb.jpg

That is a function of the mass flow capacity of the turbocharger at differing pressure ratios - the high comp engine just won't let you pump too much in before it reacts with knock. :)

Hope that adds constructively to your setup and understanding differences.

is that bhp at the hubs or the fly,and i see what you mean about the graph and thanks but i'm still going to see if it'll go to 12psi and in the meantime i'm looking at buying a gtst engine to rebuild,and whats your opinion on water injection,thanks john
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3631658
Share on other sites

With a hood water/meth injection system, 12 psi should be a really good thing, better than a DET with the same setup. The dyno graph comparison only shows half the story, as your motor should make more torque than the DET when not at full throttle, and return better equivalent fuel economy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3631668
Share on other sites

Agreed. WI would be very highly desirable (essential) if you want to run to higher boost levels and keep the thing away from knock. That then places a big demand on system reliability, and fail-safe protection. Some systems offer flow blockage indicators and boost control interface to help keep things safe if you do encounter water flow failure.

The off-boost torque, and potential fuel economy difference is definitely a +ve for this configuration, but it's worth grasping the whole picture for high comp + forced aspiration. You might make another 20 or 30 rwhp with higher boost, but pushing it towards the edge of sensible limits. Getting really good results beyond that 300hp is going to take some thought and careful tuning. I've looked very carefully at the 25DE piston design, and my opinion is that there are some little sharp edges around those valve cut-outs that are not knock-friendly.

The other issue I'd be aware of is what Nissan did NOT put into the DE - oil squirters under the piston, and the dinky oil heater/cooler. They obviously felt it necessary to do something to remove heat from the piston crowns in the DET version in the name of reliability. WI would take care of that to some extent, but just be wary if you pushed the DE+T too hard, too long. Very good streetable combination, but you'd need to know where its weaknesses are when leaning on it for more.

Edit: that dyno sheet shows power at the wheels.

Edited by Dale FZ1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3631851
Share on other sites

when under boost the whole plenum is pressurised and not all intake valves open at once these intake runners are designed to suck not have air forced in them,i've heard on a forum somewhere theres been tests on these mods and the greddy one only took over at high bhp can't remember what the figure was or where it was but this engine will never get great figures with a high cr,ah and it costs nothing to do if you know a welder

It doesn't "look" like it would flow evenly. Don't have any evidence to back it up.

It would be good if it does because I've been looking for a cheap set-up with shorter intercooler piping.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3632388
Share on other sites

It doesn't "look" like it would flow evenly. Don't have any evidence to back it up.

It would be good if it does because I've been looking for a cheap set-up with shorter intercooler piping.

nothing to back it up but theres a few over here been running them for years with no probs and a greddy one looks like its got less volume in it,theres no doubt the greddy is better mainly because you can fit a bigger throttle body

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3634095
Share on other sites

Plenum's with I6's are bout flow equality, not outright MASS, IMO

The fact ppl are using modded stocky's to make a lot of power and reliably is simply an indicator to me they're loosing a deal of power having to tame fuel & ignition to suit the lowest cylinders det threshold.

As URAS said, with these modded stock manifolds, you really would need to trim each cylinder with thermo couples / WB sensor... to get the best from it.

High comp and boosted setups require v.good manipulation of cyl pressures, assuming you dont cheat and use WI hahahaha jk.

Good result John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204739-rb25det-dyno/#findComment-3634143
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...