Jump to content
SAU Community

Hoping For Some Advice

SandalsBoy

By SandalsBoy,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

SandalsBoy Enthusiast

SandalsBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

CAR: 89 R32 GTR.

Problem:

The bell shaped metal housing that is attached to the firewall and to the piping for the clutch fluid reservoir has torn and all fluid clutch fluid leaked out. tear is pretty severe, much like a can being opened, inside i see a coil/spring of some description wrapped around a large metalic line or bar.

Obviously the clutch doesnt really disengage anymore and the pedal feel is far from normal, having very little resistance for the first half when depressed, then having a very firm spot which when depressed further causes a "ping" sound and the pedal to skip/drop a few centimeters before becoming firm again.

Questions:

1. Has a fluid leak caused the tear or has the tear caused the fluid leak? (fluid levels were fine 2 weeks ago when last checked)

2. How hard is it to get this fixed? Costs estimate?

3. What is function of the bell housing?

Any help would be much appreicated and apologies for the noobness of my descriptions. Thanks in advance.

Edited by SandalsBoy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204771-hoping-for-some-advice/
Share on other sites
SandalsBoy Enthusiast

SandalsBoy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
x2 need a pic? not sure if you are descripbing the master cylinder, brake booster or the recess in the firewall? or something else altogether?

Here it is. Hope this angle will be what you need. Thanks guys. Appreicate you taking the time to read.

dscn1191pi2.jpg

Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted

Picture aint working for me, but it sounds like the clutch master cylinder which is an easy fix.

Two bolts fix it the to firewall, one bolt to back of clutch pedal in the pedal box (this ones fiddly), and one hydralic line to clutch slave cylinder - thats for an Rb30 anyhow. Bleeding the clutch afterwards will be the most fun part of the job.

Paid $40 for mine, will be a bit more for a skyline

SandalsBoy Enthusiast

SandalsBoy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Picture aint working for me, but it sounds like the clutch master cylinder which is an easy fix.

Two bolts fix it the to firewall, one bolt to back of clutch pedal in the pedal box (this ones fiddly), and one hydralic line to clutch slave cylinder - thats for an Rb30 anyhow. Bleeding the clutch afterwards will be the most fun part of the job.

Paid $40 for mine, will be a bit more for a skyline

Thanks for the reply mate. Sounds less serious than it looks. Can anyone who can see the picture verify that this is what has happened?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

that's the clutch booster, not the clutch master cylinder that has broken - no idea how you've managed that (you might want to take a pic of the pedal and bracket inside the car too, it might have broken first.

its a bit of a pain to change but you should be able to pick one up second hand they are pretty reliable.

If you go to wreckers you might need to tell them its the clutch booster twice - I think its a bit unusual to have vacuum boost for the clutch, most cars only have it for the brakes. Might as well do the master cylinder at the same time they are pretty cheap.

SandalsBoy Enthusiast

SandalsBoy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
that's the clutch booster, not the clutch master cylinder that has broken - no idea how you've managed that (you might want to take a pic of the pedal and bracket inside the car too, it might have broken first.

its a bit of a pain to change but you should be able to pick one up second hand they are pretty reliable.

If you go to wreckers you might need to tell them its the clutch booster twice - I think its a bit unusual to have vacuum boost for the clutch, most cars only have it for the brakes. Might as well do the master cylinder at the same time they are pretty cheap.

Thanks Duncan, appreicate the advice :P

SandalsBoy Enthusiast

SandalsBoy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yah, its unbelievable. I hadn't even known a clutch have a booster - Haa :P

Hrmm any theories about how this could happen? Wouldnt want to replace it then have it reoccur. Prefer to find the cause of the problem rather than just fix the symptoms.

Bare in mind that all the clutch fluid has leaked out also... not sure if makes a difference.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

well I was wondering what the pedal looks like, the clutch bracket itself can break which means you might have been pushing at a wierd angle = broken booster. But I've never seen this before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • MBS206
      remote oil cooler hose size, 8,10 or an12?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      remote oil cooler hose size, 8,10 or an12?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
×
×
  • Create New...