Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just recived my greenslip renewal notice for 2008 including the new MCIS levis (medicare and injury services levis)

nrma want $615.83

aami want $609.00

i usually pay $330 approx

i have a no accident history,29yo,automatic,garaged good area,60% N.C.B,etc etc

what gives?

aami said its because its an import,but i have never had this high a premium on my r32gts-turbo manual......

thats over 1K including rego and pink slip...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204790-2008-greenslip-price-increase/
Share on other sites

Just recived my greenslip renewal notice for 2008 including the new MCIS levis (medicare and injury services levis)

nrma want $615.83

aami want $609.00

i usually pay $330 approx

i have a no accident history,29yo,automatic,garaged good area,60% N.C.B,etc etc

what gives?

aami said its because its an import,but i have never had this high a premium on my r32gts-turbo manual......

thats over 1K including rego and pink slip...

thats quite strange , i had registered an evo8 in november last year, greenslip thru aami for $430

ive recently moved all the insurance for work cars over to QBE. give them a go

thats quite strange , i had registered an evo8 in november last year, greenslip thru aami for $430

ive recently moved all the insurance for work cars over to QBE. give them a go

yeah that was last year

i tried qbe but there online qoute system doesnt work.

Mines coming up so I doublechecked and it was actually down on last year.

With AAMI - $321 and my R33 is $328.

Somethings amiss with yours.

Insurance however with Shannons went up $200 with full NCB to $1800.

Strange, Just registered mine in december for $600 and Im Manual, Turbo, 22, male and live in a very bad area.. Go figure..

My insurance is 2890.. :P

I'm surprised at $2300 for the V35 coupe. And that was in Parramatta bro!!

Mines coming up so I doublechecked and it was actually down on last year.

With AAMI - $321 and my R33 is $328.

Somethings amiss with yours.

Insurance however with Shannons went up $200 with full NCB to $1800.

hey skizo,

are you sure you can definatley get that price,or was it an online quote?

i did several online and got 3 quotes for approx 300 and 4 quotes for 600+

as soon as i ring them up to confirm the $300 quotes i get 'im sorry but as its an import it will be 600''

with all the insurers online qoute systems its impossible to select our model because its an import........

I had to pay it yesterday and I rang them up to confirm and it was $321. But I do have a sedan. I called them up when I got the car initially as that model wasn't in the online system yet.

I just tried to get an online quote from AAMI and something strange - I couldn't get a quote for any skylines!

I called up again today(no wait time, love it), just to doublecheck and the lady was very nice and explained to me everything. I am covered no worries eveything matches up. I asked for a quote on a 350GT Auto coupe. With all my details it was $328. I explained to her that you guys were getting quotes double that figure and she said the only variable that would affect the cost by that much is if the car was registered for work use.

She also said AAMI has some sort of relationship with Shannons as well as me having 2 cars with them, so I get a little bit of a discount there as well. But not that much. She also said, whether it's an import or not doesn't matter as much when it comes to CTP because the government sets rough price guidelines(it is a government initiative after all) which means they can't vary the prices as much as Full Comp.

:laugh:

  • 1 year later...

I just got my greenslip (NSW) renewal from QBE and it's $623. I'm 28 also live in a good area and have max NCB. Car's a 98 Skyline (turbo/manual) and I just got a quote from Allianz over the phone for $639, wtf ?

I mentioned to the lady that you got quoted $331 and she said she can't tell why that is without looking at your quote to see what the difference is. I even mentioned that your car is an older model .. Any chance you can provide me with your Allianz quote # ? If not I understand.

Since when is CTP so friggin expensive ??? It's my first time renewing CTP on the skyline and all previous cars were never more than $400. $630 for greenslip is a bloody joke!!!

Just putting my 2 cents in

26 yr, v35 2003, "just car insurance" $1464 (sister company of Shanons)

and i live in the getto of Geraldton WA

Edited by v35_Pau

we're talking about greenslip insurance (CTP/compulsory third party) which is needed to renew car rego, not the normal comprehensive insurance which comes on TOP. Maybe there's no CTP in WA or it might be included in your normal insurance like in the ACT.

Edited by Delta Force

Move to W.A. fellas... The government here was not stupid enough to privatize motor vehicle insurance, so you pay one price for greenslip + rego from the DPI (RTA equivalent).

Just got my renewal from the Gov, Will cost me $433.50 to Rego & insure my turbo skyline for 12 months. No 'pinkslip' inspection required unless rego lapses for more than three months.

Just before i left NSW i regoed my skyline then to the tune of about $1400 (610~ for greeny, 500~ for RTA & another ~300 for dodgy brothers blue slip)

Told many a horror story to Western Australians about the cost of Rego in NSW :):P

Just bought an 04 V35 350GT from a QLD'er, putting it into NSW $1300+ later...it's officially a NSW registered car. Greenslip itself was $356, not too shabby. Previous car, HSV R8 Clubsport, only $30 cheaper in terms of greenslip ...price you pay to have such a car :P

Edited by V35 350GT
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...