Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan

Model: 1992 R32 Series II Gts-t

Milage: 159,000km *Mostly Freeway Km *

Transmission: 5 spd Manual

Colour: Gunmetal, Paint has an Excellent Shine!!!!

Location: Western Sydney

Currently registered? 10 months rego!!!! Registration til Mid November

Price: $12,000 o.n.o

Contact: Matt on 0404028383 or [email protected]

Comments / Modifications:

GTR Wing and Skirts

Apexi Carbon Fibre (YES REAL!!!) Strut Brace

Motor is in standard condition (Perfect Compression, Excellent Fuel Economy (Avg 430km per tank!)

Splitfire Coil Packs

Turbosmart Bleed Valve

HKS Pod

HKS Exhaust from Cat

High Flow Cat

Gearbox was rebuilt about 2 years ago, still nice and tight

Exedy HD Organic Clutch fitted

Slotted DBA Front Rotors w/ Carbon Brake pads

Suspension redone, including replacing all bushes with nolathane

17x8.5 and 17x9" Enkei Lightweight Japanese rims. These are forged and monoblock construction. Very light! Good tyres still on board

8 Point Imobilizer with Remote Entry and Keypad for extra saftey!

Clarion MP3/CD Player with Response Splits up front and Fusion 6.5"s in the rear

Timing Belt, Belt Pully and Roller were all changed at 100,000. Replaced with Gates Racing Kit

I've kept this car fairly standard except for a few tweaks to improve the handling and braking of the car. I've avoided modifying the engine as the car is fast enough for a little fun, and I'd prefer the car not to break down all the time like some other modified cars I know. The car has been looked after by me, A skyline enthusiant, Always serviced, and kept in either a garage or a carport for most of it's life. This R32 even has all the Air Vents intact!!!! :banana:

I'm Regretfully selling my R32. Apparently it's time for a 4 door car... :ermm: I've owned this car for 3 years and besides the usual wear and tear this car has never caused me a drama. If your looking for a nice car that won't cost a lot to maintain and will always be there for you, this is the right car for you! Also, it's good condition would be a good start for somebody looking for a fresh car to build up on. This car is in a whole lot better condition than most 32's getting around!

I've taken the car WSID Twice, It's best time was a 14.01 (I think) Very good time for a stardard motor!! The car has demonstrated it's excellent handling at a couple of skid pan days. The car has never been taken out on a real track though.

The only negetive aspects of the car are the front bar has a crack down the bottom, which can be plastic welded. I never got around to it as I was always contemplating fitting a GTR Bar. There is a little bit of rust in the bonnet, under where the GTR Wing bolts down on one side. Apart from that... it's beautiful!

The car has been Dyno'ed and gave out 143KW at the rear wheels.

PM, Email, or Call me to arrange an inspection, act fast though as clean cars like this don't come up every day! My number is 0404028383, I'm lcated out towards Penrith.

Images:

post-13-1202272907_thumb.jpg

post-13-1202273043_thumb.jpg

post-13-1202273194_thumb.jpg

post-13-1202273251_thumb.jpg

post-13-1202273576_thumb.jpg

post-13-1202273824_thumb.jpg

Edited by MaTBoY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204793-fs-1992-r32-gtst-t-sydney/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...