Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just replaced the factory headunit in my 32 GT-R.

The whole process took me about 1.5 hours but this included a lot of stopping to take photos.

To complete this job, you'll need the following:

1x Phillips Head Screwdriver

1x Flat Screwdriver

1x AP348A "Nissan Double Diversity" Antenna Adaptor Lead (Make Sure this is the 348A, not the 348B lead). Autobarn had this in stock.

1x New head unit

1x Nissan 87-94 Wiring Harness (ordered through Autobarn, took 2 days to arrive)

I used the APP0121 harness because I was connecting to a stereo with an ISO connector. If you go to the Aerpro website and choose Nissan, 1989, and Patrol GQ (same harness as skyline), they have harness to fit alpine, kenwood, sony, jvc, pioneer, clarion, panasonic etc. directly to the factory plugs. If your new stereo came with a harness attached, you can use the AP7551 instead and just wire it to the one supplied with the stereo. It is a lot easier and more professional than hacking off the factory plugs and trying to solder behind the dash.

The AP348A antenna adaptor is to connect an aftermarket headunit to the factory antenna,

The AP348B antenna adaptor is to use the factory headunit with an aftermarket antenna (why would you want to do this?).

Autobarn had both in stock and I picked up the wrong one first time around. Make sure it says AP348A on the top right of the box.

gallery_46113_2344_92284.jpg

Next thing you'll need is an R32 with a Factory Stereo.

gallery_46113_2344_239.jpg

First thing you need to do is remove the Ashtray.. Just open the lid and pull.

gallery_46113_2344_22117.jpg

Next thing to do is to undo the two screws holding in the console.

gallery_46113_2344_33093.jpg

Next step is to unclip the console trim, it has a few places it's clipped down. I found that if you get a screwdriver under the back, you can get your fingers in and lift around the rest of it.

gallery_46113_2344_36672.jpg

Keep working around the clips on the whole plastic trim.

gallery_46113_2344_69600.jpg

It was about here I realised the gear boot is connected to the trim, Also remove the gearknob. Mine just unscrewed, I assume they're all the same.

gallery_46113_2344_3613.jpg

When the trim comes away, be careful as there are still wires connected to the Cigarette lighter socket. By the looks of mine, someone has stolen power from here for another turbo-related accessory that's mounted under the dash.

gallery_46113_2344_38118.jpg

To remove these wires, just pull both plugs off (Carefully). There is a two-wire plug (+ve & earth) for the lighter and a single wire for the light in the socket.

gallery_46113_2344_49202.jpg

It's important to be careful removing these wires as the single-pin one for the light is fragile and may break.

gallery_46113_2344_75994.jpg

This is the back of the Lighter socket with the light pin missing.

gallery_46113_2344_12923.jpg

With the trim removed, you can now undo the 4 screws holding in the DIN cage.

gallery_46113_2344_69495.jpg

At this point, the trim over the Aircon controls came off, so I put it to one side while I played with the stereo.

gallery_46113_2344_2733.jpg

You can now pull out the cage, be careful not to stretch the wires behind too far, the top mounts of the cage had to be carefully eased past the centre gauge cluster to avoid damaging things.

gallery_46113_2344_86077.jpg

Now that the cage is free, you can remove the stereo by removing the 4 screws holding it to the cage. There is 2 on either side.

gallery_46113_2344_77843.jpg

When all 4 screws are removed, the headunit should drop free of the cage.

gallery_46113_2344_12443.jpg

Continued in next post...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204874-r32-gtr-headunit-replacement/
Share on other sites

You can put the cage back into the dash while you do the stereo wiring. The factory stereo in the GT-R has 3 connectors, two white-ish coloured ones that are used for power / speakers and one black one that is used to connect to the dash radio controls. There is also an antenna connection on the back of the stereo.

gallery_46113_2344_21360.jpg

Back of the old factory stereo with the plugs removed.

gallery_46113_2344_57078.jpg

The Nissan areial plug has 2 pins on it, it also has a clip on the side that you have to squeeze to remove the plug.

gallery_46113_2344_28500.jpg

The Double diversity adapter (Aerpro AP348A) has a socket for the 2 pins, it also has a clip on the side to match up with the one on the aerial lead.

gallery_46113_2344_10923.jpg

When they're pushed together, the clip locks them.

gallery_46113_2344_25403.jpg

Next you need the Aerpro APP0121 (Nissan - ISO adapter) or silimar. I only used this because the headunit I was installing had an ISO connector. Plus I didn't want to cut any wires if I didn't have to. This new loom connects directly to the Nissan stereo plugs. The black connector to the remote dash buttons is not used.

gallery_46113_2344_25998.jpg

New headunit with adapter harness ready to plug in.

gallery_46113_2344_16254.jpg

Harness and aerial plugged into the new head unit.

gallery_46113_2344_33353.jpg

It's at this point that I usually test a new stereo before screwing anything back together, saves a lot of work if you've done something wrong.... It powered up and there was static in the speakers (No radio reception in the garage I park in) so I assume it's all working.

gallery_46113_2344_55645.jpg

The new headunit can now be attached to the factory DIN cage with the same screws that came out of the stock one. As there were multiple holes to choose from, I picked the one that made the front of the face line up as closely as possible with the aircon controls. There was only one screw hole that lined up on each side, so only one screw per side is used to attach the headunit.

gallery_46113_2344_24672.jpg

The cage can now be re-inserted into the dash, carefully making sure that the top of the brackets doesn't damage the gauge cluster.

gallery_46113_2344_68996.jpg

The 4 screws that hold the cage can now be put back.

gallery_46113_2344_85207.jpg

When i was inserting the cage, it got caught on the drivers side dash. It wouldn't go in and it took me ages to figure out why.

gallery_46113_2344_76885.jpg

Replace the trim over the Aircon controls. With this in place, i couldn't get the surround on the new stereo. I'll have to cut it down at a later stage. Luckily the headunit doesn't look too bad without the surround.

gallery_46113_2344_50374.jpg

Next you can put back on the console panel and replace the screws in the ashtray opening.

gallery_46113_2344_17386.jpg

And finally you can re-attach the gearknob and put the ashtray back in.

gallery_46113_2344_83519.jpg

All Done!

I know there are a few other DIY's and howto's for R32 radio replacements, I had trouble figuring out a few bits from the descriptions I read. I hope the pictures help someone else!

  • 2 months later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 3 months later...

sorry dig up an old thread but does this work on just gtr's or will it go into a gtst?

just want to clarify before i order one as it seems much better than hacking the old wiring to pieces

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

great site in general for wiring if you don't have stock wiring still (ie: someone else has butchered it before you)....

and for nissan's specifically

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

don't foget to give 12V to the aerial also, it's a single plug with a black/red stripe wire - your radio reception will be arse without it!

  • 6 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 6 months later...

A very useful guide. Thanks. I would add a few things having just tried to install an Alpine deck into my R32 GT-R

Contrary to what Aerpro may claim, their harness system is not plug and play. I found that I need to move at least one of the pins on the Aerpro Nissan harness and a number of things were missing from Aerpro's Alpine harness. I needed a crimping tool and some plugs to connect a few wires (12v battery line and the 12v antenna from memory). I ended up buying a third spare harness that I cut apart for the pins. It would have been simpler to just wire it straight in, but I do like the convenience of being able to unplug the new head unit easily (and being able to stick the original back in if I need to). For what its worth, I found that the Install Doctor wiring guide linked earlier had all the pin placements right, but some of the wire colours wrong.

The other irritation is that my Alpine unit is ever so slightly smaller than the OEM unit, so there is now a small gap between the cluster surround and the headunit. Has anyone found a solution for this? I searched the forums and the only decent suggestion was some black foam. Has anyone tried DIN spacers like so?:

http://www.dnaaudio.com.au/dtr-600-din-trim-rings-set-of-4

Thanks again for the guide.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 7 years later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...