Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im driving my parents car at the moment and im looking at a non turbo r33 for $7,500

it has a decent sized scratch/dent on the front left pannel going onto the door. kinda looks like freddy krueger got to it but im not to fussed about it.

things id like to know is are they expensive to keep on the road?

are they reliable

and any things i should know before buying a non turbo r33?

i am aware that being a 2.5 ltr car will mean more money out of my pocket but ever since i was like 8 i wanted a skyline

and now when i can get enough money i want to get the new GT-R but thats another topic

cheers in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205198-skyline-suitable-for-1st-car/
Share on other sites

I wouldnt recommend one as a first car, but if you end up getting it, PLEASE attend some driver training courses before taking it on the streets ;)

Confidence doesnt equal skill ( i say that in the nicest way possible)

I wouldnt recommend one as a first car, but if you end up getting it, PLEASE attend some driver training courses before taking it on the streets ;)

Confidence doesnt equal skill ( i say that in the nicest way possible)

agreed. on the other hand for 7k you will be gettin a really nice car, electric everything, climate control, comfort, reliability. much better than any vl-vn calais etc

formal driver training isnt necessary man.

only 120-140hp. nothin fancy.

just take it easy, and maybe take it to a track day or skid pan a few times.

Edited by r33cruiser

My first car was a non turbo R33,

just take it easy in the wet, even a n/a can get twitchy in the rain

Expensive insurance, if you can't afford comprehensive then I'd forget about driving one

it will use more fuel compared to say a lancer or corolla, but being an n/a it will survive on 95 petrol so it could even itself out.

Do your homework, if it's got a mega scratch on one side that's probably not the only thing wrong with it.

If you want a skyline, get one! With the supply of fuel going the way it is we'll probably be driving around fred flintstone style in the next couple of decades :cheers:

yabadabadoo

Good luck!

Edited by Yo-Yo

Irrelevant of what others have said i feel an NA skyline is a great first car (it was mine :D).

It teaches you how to appreciate and treat cars instead of if you got a corolla crapbox.

Just be more careful when its wet

my dad used to be a mechanic so he will be able to tell me if anything is wrong with it and how much it will cost.

yeah the comprehensive insurance is like $3k for me so ill be doing the monthly payments =D

Its OK as a first car but considering full comp is 3K...thats not realistic unless you have plenty of $$ to play with..add to that fuel, rego, maintainence, parts etc...your running costs will soon exceed your purchase price..

I got myself a turbo 180sx on my L's, everyone thought I was crazy and would stack it. I proved them wrong, didn't have a single accident in it. If you are sensible it is fine, an n/a you won't have much to worry about. Forget about full cover on insurance, it's not worth it.

taz2008: like i said, if you're sensible on the road then you will be fine, just make sure you dont give it much in the wet and stuff like that, or it WILL step out on you.

The only thing I want to say is that cops sometimes target p platers driving skylines. Seeing as you're only going to have 4 points it wont take much to lose them. Maybe you want have any problems.. Just something to consider.

I wouldnt be paying 3k for comprehensive. Your going to end up paying your car's price twice over while your still on your P's then if you do stack it - excess on top of that so whats the point?

Instead you should just cover yourself with third party and put the extra amount of money you "would" be paying with full comp into a seperate bank account and saving. Then if you do stack you will have enough money to fix your car or if your lucky and never have an accident you will have saved yourself 7k plus added interest if its in a good saving account.

The only NA skyline I'd get is an Aus R31.

there are so many other BETTER cars for beginners.

I would much prefer a Corolla sx or gti, Pulsar SSS, swift gti over an NA R33, R32.

or since your old mans a mechanic, why not get an old school escort and build it with him?

little hatch fwd's are perfect for beginners.

not only is it harder to get in to trouble, they are cheaper to buy, they are cheaper to maintain, less on insurance, less on fuel, more rewarding to drive.

for $7500, you could get a REALLY good condition version of the above cars.

My opinion only of course.

The only NA skyline I'd get is an Aus R31.

there are so many other BETTER cars for beginners.

I would much prefer a Corolla sx or gti, Pulsar SSS, swift gti over an NA R33, R32.

or since your old mans a mechanic, why not get an old school escort and build it with him?

little hatch fwd's are perfect for beginners.

not only is it harder to get in to trouble, they are cheaper to buy, they are cheaper to maintain, less on insurance, less on fuel, more rewarding to drive.

for $7500, you could get a REALLY good condition version of the above cars.

My opinion only of course.

Good point.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...