Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

since setting up everthing i needed manifold/turbo wise my next step was to choose a good wastegate.

i was wondering out of the pack turbosmart seem to be the cheapest (due to it being a aust product maybe?) but i was wondering out of all of em tial, hks, turbosmart ect ect, are there really any differences? do they make different sounds? (yes i plan to atmo) and how do screamer pipes affect them? sizes available and good performance?

i believe i would be oping for a 44mm but feel free to correct me if im wrong.

the setup will be a 25/30 rebuild with a gt3540

cheers

Edited by R34NRG
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/
Share on other sites

I was advised to get TiAl and only TiAl.

Got a 44mm TiAl gate to go on my 25/30 with the same turbo :/

Edit: got my gate off a guy on ebay from the US for a reasonable price.

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3637849
Share on other sites

Part of your decision will come down to available space to fit the gate. The Tial gates are generally of a more compact design than the turbosmart items. The turbosmart pro-gate is 48mm and is a sizeable gate compared to the Tial 44.

Your getting a 6Boost mani aren't you? I know Kyle recommends the Tials due to their compact design which generally allows the gate to be mounted straight off the manifold for better boost control rather than having a 90 degree bend off the manifold to the gate.

Edited by juggernaut1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3637941
Share on other sites

A wastegate is a wastegate if you ask me

Different brands are different sizes, thats about all there is to it.

I ran a Turbosmart 45mm gate (obsolete to the 48mm) without issue, and i know plenty of other people that use Tial, Turbosmart, HKS without any issues.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3637960
Share on other sites

i still cant get my head around what size to buy?

I have a 38mm TIAL I got cheap off the forum to run with my 3540 powered RB30DET but am unsure if it will be a suitable size for my application

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3638063
Share on other sites

yeah I have read that a couple of times now, still dont completely understand it but im getting there.

what I would like to know is how having a gate that is too small going to effect performance?

From what i can see it will cause over boosting as there is physically too much exhaust gas to fit through the small gate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3638173
Share on other sites

I dont really care I just need to get the car to the exhaust shop then to the tuner to slap a run in tune in it

once the motor is run in and the wallet has had some time to recover I will buy what ever sized gate i need to run ~20psi at this stage I just need it running

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3638215
Share on other sites

i still cant get my head around what size to buy?

I have a 38mm TIAL I got cheap off the forum to run with my 3540 powered RB30DET but am unsure if it will be a suitable size for my application

38 way too small, im using a 47mm on our car and it is marginal.

if you on a budget i would only ever consider tial, ive used turbsmart and they fine but are just way too bulky ..

Best bet if you r budget is a bit bigger to use brands like hks, sard (my favorite) greddy etc as they are nice and compact and flow extremely well... i used a Blitz D47D on cats car as i wanted a small gate (close too being to small as possible to aid rapid boost control) and the D47D has twin screamers and flows extremely well.

post-34927-1202712284_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3638233
Share on other sites

Its strange how they sound so different. Two cars i have been in that ran a Turbosmart Gate both sounded similar, whilst the Greddy Type R does seem to have a distinctive sound as well. But that could have a lot to do with manifold design as well

yeah, even though it isnt a consideration the turbosmart gates seem to sound like ass, i remember swapping out my SARD gate (damaged diaphragm for a turbosmart one way back for some testing on the series 6 and well yeah... regret is one word for it. They do however work well for their cost and we use a few (more 38mm than 44's) as many cannot afford anything else but whenever possible i try to swing em across to TIAL as they are easier to live with size wise.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3638548
Share on other sites

I used the formula for getting my wg size and it was 40mm, tial had one listed, but I couldn't find a business that would supply one. Couldn't find another company that made one that size. I eventually found a second hand HKS 40mm with a creased diaphragm for $200 and then fixed it up [anodised, high temp coated and new diaphragm etc], seems to work well. I settled on an 18psi spring, but I've got a 14 as well and might try it one day.

You'll have to use the formula and see what size, then decide what boost you want it to work at and the spring rate etc. Its the only way to get it right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3638837
Share on other sites

The turbosmart gate (45mm) that i had, was the best sounding external i've heard to date... and Troy yours would be second on the list without a doubt.

RB20 and your manifold combo has a different sound to it.

More to do with manifold and the way the screamer is (size, angle of cut) than anything else IMO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/205485-ext-wastegates/#findComment-3638856
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...