Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been searching the past few days on the most common mods for M35's. So far ive come up wth these. There are a decent selection of parts to choose from, but obviously not as much as your more common imports.

1. Intercooler kits:

Blitz - no

HKS - no

ARC - available but bloody expensive

Trust - V and R-Spec kits available.

2. Exhausts

Blitz - no

HKS - yes, Demoda

Trust - no

Fujitsubo - yes, few models available

Kakimoto - yes, Hyper Mega N1+

Tanabe - yes

3. Intake kits

Blitz - yes, Sonic Power

HKS - only for VQ35DE motor

Trust - yes, Airinx

4. Coilovers

HKS - yes, Hipermax LS+

Cusco - yes, Zero 1, Zero 2

Tein - yes, Basic Wagon, GT Wagon, Super Wagon

Tanabe - yes

Aragosta - yes but hugely expensive

JIC - yes

GReddy - no

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've got someone reputable in Sydney that does exhaust systems for the M35 Stagea. Good price as well as good quality...also sounds good. Lot cheaper than Trust ect...

Have you got any prices on the coil over's or intercooler's?

Might also mention these:

Front (approx $300-350)and rear(approx $140 to $180) bars:

post-37023-1202710528_thumb.jpg

post-37023-1202710541_thumb.jpg

post-37023-1202710557_thumb.jpg

Nice one! I'd be keen for one of those front strut braces.

And how does the exhaust sound? Did you notice any performance gains by putting that on?

cheers

Oh yeah, coilovers start from about $1400 for the Tanabes and they can go right up to 4-5 grand for the Aragostas.

The intercooler kits from Trust is about $1150 upwards.

Edited by mxfly
Nice one! I'd be keen for one of those front strut braces.

And how does the exhaust sound? Did you notice any performance gains by putting that on?

cheers

Oh yeah, coilovers start from about $1400 for the Tanabes and they can go right up to 4-5 grand for the Aragostas.

The intercooler kits from Trust is about $1150 upwards.

Exhaust note is great...slight motor idle sound off stall travelling...RB26 sound mixed with a V6 instead of straight 6. I found a slight pickup improvement without a good filter...then I put a good filter on and removed the inspection cover on the airbox and it picked up everywhere....feels like a different car now....makes a nice growl from standing start.

Exhaust note is great...slight motor idle sound off stall travelling...RB26 sound mixed with a V6 instead of straight 6. I found a slight pickup improvement without a good filter...then I put a good filter on and removed the inspection cover on the airbox and it picked up everywhere....feels like a different car now....makes a nice growl from standing start.

I am getting some information on Bilstein coilovers for the NM35. Thay are available, just trying to verify first if the valve rates are any good. I also should have some information on new swaybars soon also.

I found with the inspection cover off the airbox economy is a bit worse. Trying back on now to see there is any improvement plus a little more down low grunt.

Are you going to the meet on Thursday? Sounds like there is plenty of info to swap.

I am getting some information on Bilstein coilovers for the NM35. Thay are available, just trying to verify first if the valve rates are any good. I also should have some information on new swaybars soon also.

I found with the inspection cover off the airbox economy is a bit worse. Trying back on now to see there is any improvement plus a little more down low grunt.

Are you going to the meet on Thursday? Sounds like there is plenty of info to swap.

Be interested in the price for the Bilstein setup....they were a bit to expensive for my last car.

I am pretty sure I am going on Thursday. Permission was granted....not that I had to ask in the first place...sort of....lol!

I find the ARX feels a bit too floaty of me, especially when i've come from imports that have much firmer ride. So a nice set of Teins would be ideal, not sure which model but something that's a bit firmer than stock but not too stiff. And an EDFC would be nice to have to control the dampers remotely.

I had Bilsteins on my last car and didnt like them. Was way too harsh. Perhaps it wasnt the ideal coils for street use.

I find the ARX feels a bit too floaty of me, especially when i've come from imports that have much firmer ride. So a nice set of Teins would be ideal, not sure which model but something that's a bit firmer than stock but not too stiff. And an EDFC would be nice to have to control the dampers remotely.

I had Bilsteins on my last car and didnt like them. Was way too harsh. Perhaps it wasnt the ideal coils for street use.

Most of the coil overs I have found so far are only for the non ARX model. ie, they are a lower ride height. I would like to keep the ride height and get better handleing which I am told is possible. The problem with the Bilsteins is that they are only made for the Jap market and what I am trying to find out is if the valving is set by Japan or Germany. If Jap, they are likely to be very stiff, if German they should be a lot better.

Suspension-wise, SydneyKid often recommends that a new and uprated set of sway bars can easily make the biggest improvement to the handling of a car.

He is the man making them for my car...... :(

  • 2 weeks later...
Um, i'm not sure if you guys know this, but the M35 doesn't have coilovers on the rear, the spring and shock are separate...

We know, just easier to type that than 2 different types of suspension.

Cheers

Andy

  • 3 months later...
  • 6 months later...
I've got someone reputable in Sydney that does exhaust systems for the M35 Stagea. Good price as well as good quality...also sounds good. Lot cheaper than Trust ect...

Have you got any prices on the coil over's or intercooler's?

Might also mention these:

Front (approx $300-350)and rear(approx $140 to $180) bars:

Who in sydney done the exhaust?

Who in sydney done the exhaust?

You will find that most of the guys here that have M35's are located in the Sydney area.

I believe Jetwreck has a custom 3"

NRVOUS has a custom dump/front pipe with a Fujitsubo rear pipe. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4253896

mxfly, I believe, has the same as NRVOUS

KNG35M has a custom

.... off the top of my head, I am sure there are more. Try sending them a PM (I presume you want to see the exhausts)

Edited by iamhe77

melb guys - for suspension try damien at suspension city 41 provost st nth melb ,039329-5133 , cheap bilsteins , cheaper than the aust distributor

can organise all info about spring rates , bound & rebound of springs and dampning rates of the shocks, regards alan. :)

Edited by sleeper393
You will find that most of the guys here that have M35's are located in the Sydney area.

I believe Jetwreck has a custom 3"

NRVOUS has a custom dump/front pipe with a Fujitsubo rear pipe. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4253896

mxfly, I believe, has the same as NRVOUS

KNG35M has a custom

.... off the top of my head, I am sure there are more. Try sending them a PM (I presume you want to see the exhausts)

I spoke with the guys from liverpool exhausts recently and they sked me to bring the car back so they can jig up a complete full system as they have had a few enquiries. I've just had a friend who's purchased a BLK ARX with some Jap coilovers (looks tuff) & he's keen for a full system so I might get the guys at Liverpool to do a full system for him and we'll have a price range to work off.

They would also be cool with a group buy discount for SAU members if the numbers stacked up; so if there is more of you out there considering dumps or fullsystems for NM35's then we can initiate a xmas special.

Cheers

TT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...