Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thats funny. you bought a $$ car from a shop and they didn't bother putting in $20 worth of new spark plugs? remind me to buy a car there sometime

and the same bloke reckons you can get less than factory boost using a boost controller eh? the laws of physics must be different on the north shore

Another note. Spoke to Tony from North Shore Prestige where I got the car from. He suggested a few things to increase economy.

- change plugs

- clean injectors (if they do need cleaning but unlikely he said)

- clean the afm

- get an ebc so you can wind down the boost to say 5 pounds when you dont need the power.

- dont drive with a heavy foot, which im not anyway.

Y get an ebc to wind it down to 5 when that is stock boost under 4 grand. I use a switching system so I can run stock and switch to about 81/2, if the gauge is accurate, when I need some hustle off the lights or hitting Henri Robert on the way back from the coast.

I think the system I built cost about $30 for the two switches.

Sure an ebc gives a whole lot more range, but if you have a std turbo why blow it.

The best mod I have for a virtual stocker is a 3" JJ dump, 3" X Force Hi Flow cat, and 3" cat back. I still have another muffler and a Japanese EPA canon that keeps the car super quiet but the 3" system lets it breathe a lot better and you can really feel it

I have a DFA ready to install. I've had it for two years. But every time I go back thru all the threads etc., even SK's epistles

I am still not entirely convinced that a DFA will signifficantly reduce my fuel consumption because it has absolutely NO CONTROL over my right foot.

Even at 151.9 for Ultimate today I am still happy with the thrill that driving at 16/100 gives me in a very safe vehicle that has a capital cost of 15 grand.

thats funny. you bought a $$ car from a shop and they didn't bother putting in $20 worth of new spark plugs? remind me to buy a car there sometime

and the same bloke reckons you can get less than factory boost using a boost controller eh? the laws of physics must be different on the north shore

ROFLCOPTER!

Why don't they just buy a Prius?? LOL

Just came back from a run from the ACT to Sydney and back over the weekend (only the 2nd time in 2 and a bit years). Only engine mods are 3" Split Dump, 3" all the way through a hi flow Cat, two pass through mufflers and a high flow air filter. Oh, plus my connection with the battery terminals failed the other day whilst travelling at 80k's an hour (completely dead, no power at ALL, engine off, a long downhill run ahead - another story) which nicely reset the ECU after I had just had it serviced. It just required a quick fix of the battery terminal.

We headed up the road towards Sydney on the saturday. I filled up at Sutton Forrest, stopped at Sutherland, next day through to the North Shore, back through Sutherland, up towards Picton, back on the Freeway towards Canberra and home (love those freeway on ramps ;-> ). Managed to make it all the way home to my local servo, where I filled up. It was on the Orange light for a while, and took exactly 60 Litres to top up. 520k's.

Very happy with that. Got to get the audio system replaced though, although the sweet sound of the turbo partly on boost at the occasional cruise at around 3,200k's was a beautiful thing. :D

I've been consistently getting 11L/100km drving to and from work, which is a 120km a day. I'm impressed with it, since the factory figures are around 12L/100km. not too bad for a 12 year old car with over 200,000km on the clock I think. 161c/L for Ultimate is starting to hurt though, hopefully someone buys the old girl in the next month or so so i can get myself a little 4 cylinder runabout to save some money on.

interesting, the last time i posted here i was getting around 14.5L/100km, but ive done a few tanks on vortex and synergy 8000, and im getting 13.5 or less L/ 100kms probably because im taking a different route and avoiding the traffic. getting up at 6am gets old though :P

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...