Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

spotted at old school n new age show: ruby, me, damo, luke, troy, steve, abe, vu, james, krishy, alex, carl, dan, shane, anthony and the dude that owns the r31....i 4got ur name soz! My bad!!

Spotted you too Cara

and the rest of the crew/gang/possie/cara's bitches

cops were busy at lofty picking on commodores :D

nothin wrong with that??? :D

Spotted you too Cara

and the rest of the crew/gang/possie/cara's bitches

whos the bitch krishy. your the one with the defect.

that is just proof that u been treated like a bitch.

bend ova and take it krishy ah ha ah ha.

Wow, Steve and Nathan got it on didn't they? :D Told ya it prob wasn't him Steve. And Nathan, you do need to learn people skills :P

spotted ruby popping numerous flames... might wanna have that looked at. :P

Whatever do you mean? :)

spotted at old school n new age show: ruby, me, damo, luke, troy, steve, abe, vu, james, krishy, alex, carl, dan, shane, anthony and the dude that owns the r31....i 4got ur name soz! My bad!!

Woohoo! My name was first :P

Spotted them all too. And some AWD drifting? :D

Edited by RubyRS4
spotted at old school n new age show: ruby, me, damo, luke, troy, steve, abe, vu, james, krishy, alex, carl, dan, shane, anthony and the dude that owns the r31....i 4got ur name soz! My bad!!

Do i need to say i spotted them too?...well i did, then i spotted a few of them again on the drive to aldinga and sellicks.

yeah i wasn't too tactful was just sure it was him

There are so many learners riding those green 250s now. Finding nathan is like a needle in a hay stack ... unless you go looking for him at the BP :thumbsup:

There are so many learners riding those green 250s now. Finding nathan is like a needle in a hay stack ... unless you go looking for him at the BP :thumbsup:

shhh dont tell people where the super awesome happy fun times hang out is lol

and steve if you didnt call other people names then i wouldnt have got fired up, so dont tell me i shouldnt have written that, maybe think bout urself first coz u brought it all on u.

seen a maroon 33 boostin it through the new tunnels on south road, geez the road is still dusty lol

The little 250 kwaka is shit :thanks: ... but sshh we won't let Nathan know.

Point has been made guys, and somewhat of apologies for behaviour passed .. lets leave it now shall we? :D

Show the love :thumbsup:

sigh yes i called his bike shit because I don't believe a 250 deserves the name ninja if it had been called a KX250r no problems or ZR250r but ZX should remain for the larger stroked sportsbike

call me funny if you will

never did i direct names at Nathan

spotted all you guys down at the show yesserday...i had the gunmetal 31 over the other side with the grand auto wreckers boys...well done on the prize!!!

ahhh, that would be Anthony Norris......good mate that worked with me at Adelaide Engine years ago

spotted a hot a black r34 and a silver r34 tonight

in murray bridge spotted a candy apple red r33 with veilside kit........very very very nice.......rims let it down tho

also in the bridge a gunmetal grey 33

spotted a hot a black r34 and a silver r34 tonight

in murray bridge spotted a candy apple red r33 with veilside kit........very very very nice.......rims let it down tho

also in the bridge a gunmetal grey 33

spotted both those 33s last nite in the 'bridge whilst on a grog run :(

spotted all you guys down at the show yesserday...i had the gunmetal 31 over the other side with the grand auto wreckers boys...well done on the prize!!!

Been ages since I dropped in on the Norris brothers. Must get down there again one day.

Spotted their display, but didn't see neither brother.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...