Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Spotted yesterday at Autobarn, Elizabeth- bergundy R33 coupe and a yellow R34 with the plates 5ltrEtr or something along those lines.

And today at MOB, Vu, Krishy, Anthony, Ruby, Lex, Kellie, Troy, Aleks, Rodney, Dion, Think thats everyone? And a few Stags on the way home, possible Ben and Nene in the white 260 on Main North.

I was there dont think i met ya im brendan was in the grey jumper had the grey stagea

spotted white r35 parked in the rain at a pub all by its lonesome, felt sorry for the poor lil thing.

it needed me to take it with me and give it a good home :)

tuff as 1st 1 ive seen on the street.

its a pretty sereal feeling ay? when i saw the first 35 id seen i was just like woh wait wtf.

its a pretty sereal feeling ay? when i saw the first 35 id seen i was just like woh wait wtf.

i was like that kinda looks like a skyline up there............no..............no it cant be...........i think it is.............HOLY SH*T!!!

Edited by Inline 6

Spotted silver 33 with an ace of spades on the bonnet... awful looking side swipe the whole way down the left side.. owchie. Also saw 'HSV Eater'. Both at Munno Para this morning/afternoon while i was unsuccessfully lining up for ACDC tickets.

I was there dont think i met ya im brendan was in the grey jumper had the grey stagea

You must be the one I keep seeing near my work.

I've got a stock slammed S2. Work at reynella mazda.

congratulations to the tosser in the black 32 at springbank waters, you wonder why the cops have a problem with us!!!!!!!!!!! burn out through the carpark, burnout leaving the carpark then a high speed pass at probably twice the the speed limit (70km zone) only to return to the carpark. get a commonwhore and join ragerz, you'll fit right in. end rant.

lots of cars do burnouts mate... its not good for us no but the rest of us need to make sure we keep ourselves inline... have you ever been over the limit lol? dont think anybody on this forum has never sped unless they aint got a car :) and im not agreeing with the 32's actions im just saying next time report him if you want to do something about it ay...

I havnt even tried doing burnouts hehe srs

celsior ripped mad skids.

on private property.i]

good to see someone understands we in a public forum :D

i think burnouts are boring no matter what after the 1st min, i mean what changes? o wait what's he gonna do, o its another loop. obviously it has the power to keep a burnout going thats been well established after 10seconds, skill invovled lil to none any spaz can hold the accelarater pedal down. extra lame points are awarded if the car has bike tyres and only 1 wheel spinning.

why dont they just make a machine that spins a pole with rubber glued on to it and shove that angainst some tarmac, takes the car right out of the equation. mini burnouts could be done from modified electric drills

however they still impress the 10yr olds that only understand noise and a lil bit of smoke coming out (whether it be engine or wheels)

Edited by Inline 6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...