Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys/gals.

I've got an R33 with an optima yellow top battery. Due to a bvggered turbo, the car has been sitting there for about 1.5 months. I thought it would be ok to leave a deep cycle battery that long between starts but obviously not.

I got my brother to try and give me a jump start but when I tried starting the car, all I heard was a really fast and loud "ticka-ticka-ticka" sound and it wouldn't start. I think that was the Mongoose alarm chuckin' a spaz.

A tow truck is coming next week to pick up the car and take it to the mechanic to be fixed, but I'll need the battery alive so I can start the car and drive it up onto his truck (the car can move short distances but the mechanic said to rev it as little as possible when moving it around, so I can't take it for a proper drive like you normally do after a jump start).

So, two questions:

1) Is there any chance my battery is completely dead? Hope not... it was fr1gg1n expensive!! Can optimas be run so flat that they are useless? or are they harder to kill?

2) How the heck do I get the battery alive enough to drive it onto the tow truck when it arrives, without having to ring the NRMA and wait around for them (and the tow truck possibly arrive before the NRMA).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206213-optima-battery-went-flat/
Share on other sites

Optimas are usually pretty hardy. We've had one in car that's only been started probably once every six months and it's usually ine. That 'ticka-ticka' sound is the immobiliser kicking in because there's not enough juice from the jump start to get things going. When you start the donor car, wait a few min before you attempt to jump your car.

Easiest solution is to pop into the shops and pick up a cheap battery charger. You can get them for around $20 and it will charge it up so you can start the car.

Fair enough. Was just worried that my coupla hundred dollar battery was a dodo. I've charged it up now though, and leaving it disconnected til they come to get the car. I got a few chugs from the starter motor when it was half charged (got nothing before), so I think it'll be fine.

Thanks

yes these batteries can die I had a red top one i just threw out after only 2 years - couldn't be bothered trying for warranty, they will just say I let it go flat for too long at some point.

you should be able to charge it a coupple of times from completely flat as the idea is that the gel helps to prevent sulphation by cracking when i9t goes flat and releasing more electrolyte.

Just check that it holds the charge.

mine lost the charge after 1 day and dropped to 5v instead of 12v so I threw it away - there goes $750 :rofl:

Now that I think about it maybe I should have tried discharging it first?

the ticking noise is not your alarm or immobiliser trying to "kick in".

get someone to charge your battery then try again.

then ticking noise happens when ur battery is less that 11v.

from memory i think u need minimum 11v to kick over the engine.

u can charge ur battery by connecting the jumper leads to a car which is at idle and leave it connected for about 15minutes. then disconnect and try to start.

DO NOT HAVE BOTH CARS RUNNING AT THE SAME TIME WITH THE LEADS CONNECTED.

or your going to run the risk of blowing ur cpu.

if you want to be safe, just dc ur battery. take it to a battery place and they will charge it for about $10.

Edited by lighty01
DO NOT HAVE BOTH CARS RUNNING AT THE SAME TIME WITH THE LEADS CONNECTED.

or your going to run the risk of blowing ur cpu.

if you want to be safe, just dc ur battery. take it to a battery place and they will charge it for about $10.

Really?

I know jump starting some cars is not safe but is this the case with Skylines?

Um lighty01, don't like reading threads all the way through? I already charged it.

You're best recharging with one of those cable sets which say they are safe for ECU, as mine does. I DC'ed the battery anyway as I charged mine from an AC charger. Only took two evenings (disconnected during the day so the car could remain closed) of charging to come good.

Anyway, after charging the battery and leaving it DC for about a week, it turned over first time and is now on it's merry way off to my mechanic. Optima rocks! Thanks to those who helped.

  • 1 month later...

I have a yellow top battery that has gone flat after sitting there for months. How long did it take you to charge it and what sort of charger did you use?

I left it charging for around 6 hours and it still didn't start the car, it did feel like it picked up a bit more charge but not enough. Should I try and charge it for a long time or should I assume it's dead?

Um lighty01, don't like reading threads all the way through? I already charged it.

You're best recharging with one of those cable sets which say they are safe for ECU, as mine does. I DC'ed the battery anyway as I charged mine from an AC charger. Only took two evenings (disconnected during the day so the car could remain closed) of charging to come good.

Anyway, after charging the battery and leaving it DC for about a week, it turned over first time and is now on it's merry way off to my mechanic. Optima rocks! Thanks to those who helped.

  • 1 month later...

ok oh...cheers...

coz im going on holiday for just ova week...

and the last time i wen on holiday for about that length..

she was sound a sleep..

so i had give a rac a buzz...lol..to jump me..

coz i couldnt find my old leads...cant rember wat Wattage they wer though...

but is ok now..got some 400W jumper leads :D

never jump-starter here b4, thats y i asked....

but should be thick enough to get juice to my baby..

thanks again

For a Yellow-top drycell you dont need to worry if you flatten it completely, they are designed to discharge completely without killing the battery.

Charge it up for 18 - 20 hours on a trickle-charger, and she will be fine.

If the car's going flat after such a short time, there is something taking more than normal charge.

As for the ticking, it's the solenoid int he starter trying to engage the throw-cog onto the flywheel before attempting to turn the engine over, it's simple a flat battery or not enough amps from the jumper leads, common with cheap $20 leads from el-cheapo stores.

Get a GOOD set of leads, or a proper Jump Start pack and use that for jumping cars.

I got a cheapo $40 jump start pack in the thought it would fire up my Soarer back a few months ago, but when I tried it recently, it merely ticked like a flat battery, completely useless for anything except a torch on the side of it.

B.

  • 2 months later...

can anyone recommend a place in sydney preferrably west for me to take my dead batter and charge it? and also if the headlights and cd players work does that mean battery isn't dead? or does it need more power to kick the engine over? cuz mine dont start but lights work :s

Wow back from the dead... basically... what turbo brian said... and if the battery is THAT dead, you won't get it started from a jump start (btw, my mechanic has told me that jumpstars can kill turbo controllers and such, so I don't recommend it). If it's really dead, you need to disconnect it from the car and charge it using a trickle charger as said before, for most likely a few days. Usually they have a read-out of power levels. I waitied until it was at about 80-90%.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...