Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes, I'm new here and need some help with a little project. I'm putting a RB25DET into a UC Torana coupe. I'm not sure if that will get some peoples backs up, but here i am anyway.

Some of you peeps may have bought some parts from me on ebay. Anyway, i would love a picture of the inside of the fuse/relay box cover in the engine bay. I had one, but sold it. i thought I'd taken pics, but can't find them.

Car pictures.

dscf2184ux7.jpg

I thought I'd post a picture so you guys know that I'm not a dreaming or pulling your leg. I'm on a few other forums and i know how it work for noobs like me.. :(

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

f**k YES! lol you rock. That car would be a handful when it's running.

Heaps of people have told me that. The funny thing is that I've never been in a skyline or driven one. the closest was driving a stagea.

The orginal engine plan was a RB30 with a SC14 supercharger. i got the engine in and running while the paint was rough. After stripping the car down and getting it painted i decided to get cracking on rebuilding the rb30 motor and chasing up a 5 speed. After doing the math, it was cheaper to buy a complete half cut R33.

So i sold the RB30 with SC14 blower and many parts from the half cut i didn't need. I stll have heaps of parts left over that i need to sell. How does it work on this forum with selling stuff? Do you need a certain amount of posts first?

The aim is to get the car up and running asap. I done things to the motor like a new excedy heavy duty clucth, machine flywheel,new rear main seal,all new exhauxt studs and gasket.

Also it has new timing belt,seals and pulleys. i still have new belts and plugs to install.

It should be interesting to drive....I can't wait.

  • 3 months later...

So you're sticking an RB in a car which was single handedly responsible for a lot of mid-20's sin, depravity and probably at least responsible for about 3 reasons of "why I will go to hell"? :)

It was even that colour blue (well, that and primer) with a 308 piece of oil burning, GMH pushrod shit, iron boat anchor... Good job! :)

Edited by MK2
  • 2 weeks later...

Guy I know has a different model torana (dont know GM) with an RB30 Turbo from a VL he wants to put in it. I like the idea, will be a hell of a car!!

  • 2 months later...
ummm his 250 will NOT be faster than the car, no way in hell! those cibby 250's are good for about a 14 second quarter, I am sure the UC hatch with a rb25 will be well into the 12's

Now I'm scared. I ordered a reco 9 inch 3.55 lsd centre and I will be running 17" VY SS rims. I'm really pushing to get this car done by December. I'll see how I go..Mony being the biggest hurdle followed by time.

Looking good. A mate did a similar thing but a rb26 into a tarana. Aweosme fun to drive but easy to get into trouble with lots of power and next to no weight :D

As in sliding around trouble or red and blue disco lights trouble?

This car is being built for towing and just a good all rounder car to drive. I love to go a power cruise in it. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...