Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey lads,

I've got some stickers on the boot and left and right fenders that i want to get rid of, they're kinda old looking.

What's the best/safest method to do this? I heard a blowdryer and some kind of solution will do it?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206310-removing-stickers/
Share on other sites

what i used on mine was a hair dryer, then the stickers came off easily, but had a little bit of a sticky residue left, and a guy told me to use 'wax and grease' remover, and it worked a treat and didnt heart the paint..

Hey lads,

I've got some stickers on the boot and left and right fenders that i want to get rid of, they're kinda old looking.

What's the best/safest method to do this? I heard a blowdryer and some kind of solution will do it?

Thanks in advance.

that's right, just use blow dryer and pry them off with your fingers or something that's solid but won't scratch the metal surface

sticky residue you can take off either with blow drying again and smudging it off slowly or methylated spirit

a citric based adhesive remover available from Bunnings. It smells like oranges and may even have orange something in the name can't remember but it is the best, completey non-toxic and won't damage anything... it so good it will remove windscreen sealants from stuff as well, no problem...

a citric based adhesive remover available from Bunnings. It smells like oranges and may even have orange something in the name can't remember but it is the best, completey non-toxic and won't damage anything... it so good it will remove windscreen sealants from stuff as well, no problem...

Listen to the man! Tried it to get the sticky stuff left over from my old service sticker off, worked a treat!!

A word of warning with citric adhesive remover- it marked my clearcoat.

Blowdryer worked good and the stickers are off, but i'm not using the adhesive remover for any more of the glue.

What about metho or wax & grease remover? Are they gentle on the clearcoat?

I'm not fussed about the paint, it looks as though a professional detailer can just polish it out :whistling:

Thats interesting that you say it damaged your clear coat cause it's just orange juice, that would mean you don't need brake fluid to stuff peoples paint jobs just some juice...

I've never heard of it damageing anything, in fact we use it to get adhesive off clients cars all the time...

  • 2 weeks later...
Thats interesting that you say it damaged your clear coat cause it's just orange juice, that would mean you don't need brake fluid to stuff peoples paint jobs just some juice...

I've never heard of it damageing anything, in fact we use it to get adhesive off clients cars all the time...

i have that problem....the stupid dumb japs left it on my car and never wiped it off....on my front left quarter i have drop spots......not happy....essentially took it back to the bare metal....oh well....as long as i seal it over for now it wont rust.....

as for the sticker removal....im gonna do that 2moz.........hair dryer and metho....and while im there...take off the other stickers on the inside of my windscreen.......

Metho is completley safe for car paint. i use it everyday on cars at work to prep for sticker application. not really ideal for removing the glue, bug and tar/citric based stuff is best. just roll the glue with your thumb and it should come off.

if you get the heat just right with your hairdryer u wont leave behind any glue anyways.

Edited by sivart

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...