Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, am after a new fuel pump..just wondering wat i should get??

common one i hear about is the bosch 040/044/023..

so wat is the ext. difference between the 3??

and which one is going to last?supply enough fuel etc..worth its valve..

or should i be looking at a nismo/walbro pump??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

Hey, am after a new fuel pump..just wondering wat i should get??

common one i hear about is the bosch 040/044/023..

so wat is the ext. difference between the 3??

and which one is going to last?supply enough fuel etc..worth its valve..

or should i be looking at a nismo/walbro pump??

The bosch 040 is a intake pump

The bosch 044 is a bigger version than the 040 but is an external type pump

The bosch 023 is pretty much the same as the 044 but the intake style (ie it has a open base for the pickup on the pump)

Personally i would stay away from walbro and just get a bosch (i have fitted a 023 to my bros car and works a treat), if you want to spend more on a direct replacement then get something along the lines of a nismo pump.

A bosch 023 will well and truely get you your 350rwhp

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/#findComment-3655458
Share on other sites

so the 023..is that internal??

sounds good..

but can i simply attach it to the cradle etc..

of do u gotta modify it heaps to make it fit??

so is the 023 a bigger fuel pump than the 044?

Edited by bumble_bee
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/#findComment-3664683
Share on other sites

Bosch 023 = Nismo pump... unsure if it plugs straight into position, or needs modificaqtion to fit (doing my research atm lol)

023 Flows 168 L/hr @ 5 bar (internal) L=169mm D=60mm

040 Flows 102 L/hr @ 6.5 bar (internal) L=169mm D=60mm

044 Flows 200 L/hr @ 5 bar (external) L=196mm D=60mm

Bosch pdf comparison fuelpumps.pdf

Bosch fuel pump website: http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/html/4560.htm

Hope all that helps :thumbsup:

Edited by infamous_t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/#findComment-3683089
Share on other sites

R34GTFOUR (see for sale thread) has a second hand 023 on R33 Bracket in Perth - buy? (edit)

If you're only after 350rwhp the simplest/cheapest would be a GTR pump (drop straight in).

or Antimatter (see for sale thread) had a second hand Tomei for sale that is the 276 l/hr drop in upgrade.

At 350 rwhp a 040 will be enough but needs a bit of fiddling about as does the 023 which will give you 276 l/hr (heaps)

$ vs stuff around.

Or go 044 with surge pot and pick up the advantages of a swirl pot and heaps of delivery but more $

Edited by WRRR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/#findComment-3684087
Share on other sites

The GTR pump is good but saying it is a drop straight in, is not quite right

THere's a bit of fiddling and choping and if you're not confident, you'll give up...or if you do get it in, you might get some noise from hitting the tank if you were a bit off.

But then, again, this applies to any of the Bosches too.

I'm not trying to paint a bad picture on the them, they're all good options but the only Drop In option is a Tomei or Nismo

Absolutely no fabrication needed whatsoever.

Evrything required is in the pack.

....and, apparently Walbros aren't up to the task, which gets mentioned quite alot and peeps still buy em cause they're cheap....

(i think their flow rates are true on a different amp/voltage of something...maybe 14volts? where the Nissan is 12volts?)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/#findComment-3685597
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

so with the tomei and nismo and gtr pumps..

are they a direct replacement of the stock pump..

lik can i just simply pull out the old stock cradle and drop the new one in...?

or do i got take the pump off and put the new one on..

but no modifications to cradle, lines etc.. is that correct???

unlike the 023 wer i have to modify..

i heard about changin the stock wiring too..is this also required wen fitting a new pump?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/#findComment-3738422
Share on other sites

genuine Walbro pumps are fine.

genuine bosch pumps are fine

i have fitted a couple of walbro's and a 040, when they are wired right they are good.

you can pick up a 040 for $190ish off ebay, couple of 2.5" hose clamps holding it in the stock cradle and cut the earth after the plug on the tank lid cover and wire/earth it to the body and you'll be set.

that will be fine till the power bug returns then it will serve as a lift pump ready for a surge and 044 inline :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/#findComment-3738436
Share on other sites

so with the tomei and nismo and gtr pumps..

are they a direct replacement of the stock pump..

lik can i just simply pull out the old stock cradle and drop the new one in...?

or do i got take the pump off and put the new one on..

but no modifications to cradle, lines etc.. is that correct???

unlike the 023 wer i have to modify..

i heard about changin the stock wiring too..is this also required wen fitting a new pump?

hey mate

i've just recently gone down this path.

i tried with an r32 GTR pump to put it into my r33 GTST...... lot of fiddling and i didnt get there (dunno if the r33 pumps are the same). I reckon if i had more time i could of got it to slide in.

Anyway i ended up buying the tomei fuel pump (comes complete with cradle thingy), this just comes straight out of the packet/box and slides straight into the factory guides. Tomei from what i hear is EXACTLY same as nismo.

Answer is: TOMEI/NISMO are direct replacement

Anything else requires fidling.....that's what i am able to put together (havent tried them all like all the bosch's....)

on the topic i've found that my tomei gives a slight hum in the cabin...its only very very slight....and i still like it. and then when you step on the peddle the hum steps up a pitch....kind of cool......but the sound is only just noticeable.

Thats another reason why i went tomei as with the other ones needing modifying you gotta be certain the pumps not lieing on the fuel tank wall -----> your "hum" becomes a "buz".

But price wise the tomei/nismo is a a bit more expensive than the others.....so comes down to your call.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/#findComment-3738447
Share on other sites

so do u get the upgraded wiring with the tomei pumps..lik do u got re-wire the new tomei pump..or do u get a harness that plugs straight-in??

so far that looks like the tomei pump is better pump to choose...

i heard of alot of people had to re-wire their car fuel pump wiring..well thats wat ive bein told by mates..

some reckon u dont have too..but yeah...coz of the voltage required by the new pump..some evan using relays..

is this required aswel???

(sorry if someone has already asked these questions)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206666-r33-fuel-pump/#findComment-3740920
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...