Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

today I finished making heat shield box for my Pod filter using heat shield matterial from clark rubber ($16 for a meter), ita very doggy job but i think it does what it meant to do.

Anyway now I need to make a cold air inlet. the only place i can think of is just directly under the pod as you can see in the pic. there are no room through headllights. thinking of cutting a hole under the pod and maybe pit a pvc pipe?

Now how can I cut this meatl? tired with a hexo blade but cant, how do you guys do it?

is there any other way to get cold air or is this the best way

(I did search in DIY section, and found two topics, but doesnt help me, )

may be I can get a standerd air snorkel and fit it to my box? as well as cutting a hole in that place too...........

Cheers guys, and thanks in advance :P

search tags added by eug 21.02.08

search tags: cai custom air intake feed pod filter temperature snorkel

post-33178-1203428139_thumb.jpg

post-33178-1203428218_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206863-best-place-for-cold-air-inlet/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

^^ Did you R33 come with an air feed which just sits under the bonnet? If it did, put it back on to feed air to the pod and where you have circled, YES thats where you can make a hole, thats only if there is nothing underneath.

Cuz you car is N/A you do not have an intercooler to cool the air. So you will have to feed as much cold air as posible.

^^ Did you R33 come with an air feed which just sits under the bonnet? If it did, put it back on to feed air to the pod and where you have circled, YES thats where you can make a hole, thats only if there is nothing underneath.

Cuz you car is N/A you do not have an intercooler to cool the air. So you will have to feed as much cold air as posible.

No, it didnt come with a air feed when i bought it. so how can I cut a hole in there....? with what.........shuld i drill it or any other way?

Cheers

yea mate, that is the exact place that i have mine in atm, as i have a free air duct because i fitted a fmic.

it works perfectly, and can easily fit a 3'' pipe to the front grill to get all that cool air..

all i can recommend is to get say about a 52-60mm hole cutter, hook that up to a drill and drill away.

its a good idea man, but make sure u have a pipe going to it eh.

Use a small electric saw. The plastic might be a bit hard but you can also try and drill through it... you know the drill bit you use to drill through wooden doors to install door locks... look like a circler piece thingy...LOL damn it only if I knew the name.

nope..

If you want a job done properly.. get the right tool..

Theres a tool what has a drill bit.. fits into an en electric drill chuck and in the middle of the drill bit there is a cirlular saw kind of thing that drills a larger round hole..

So the idea is that the drill bit drills the pilot hole.. and you continue pushing down till it reaches the "crown" of the circular saw kind of thing..

I have seen these in 3"

You can also find them without the drill bit.. just throw it into th chuck of an electrill and its a large circular disk with a saw blade..

Hope it makes sence..

Just run down to a hardware store.. and explain it to them... you may do a beter job than me :P

you know the drill bit you use to drill through wooden doors to install door locks... look like a circler piece thingy...LOL damn it only if I knew the name.

Lol.. sorry.. didnt see this post.. but yes.. thats whats you want..

Edited by GTS4WD

its REALLY important that you get one thats designed for metal not wood

i had a look at the one i had and thought it would do the job.

no. it wont.

made a mess of both the drill bit and the cut out

went sweet once i got the right drill bit.

oh and make sure you put some sort of filter over each end of the pipe (i used fly wire)

because the inlet is really close to the ground in the front bar you get a lot of crap flying up there

and thats not what you want..

nope..

If you want a job done properly.. get the right tool..

Theres a tool what has a drill bit.. fits into an en electric drill chuck and in the middle of the drill bit there is a cirlular saw kind of thing that drills a larger round hole..

So the idea is that the drill bit drills the pilot hole.. and you continue pushing down till it reaches the "crown" of the circular saw kind of thing..

I have seen these in 3"

You can also find them without the drill bit.. just throw it into th chuck of an electrill and its a large circular disk with a saw blade..

Hope it makes sence..

Just run down to a hardware store.. and explain it to them... you may do a beter job than me :(

Lol.. sorry.. didnt see this post.. but yes.. thats whats you want..

Yeah you get it LOL!

^ its called a hole saw

make sure you get the one that can cut through metal and dont use the wood one

Yeah thats the one. LOL!

Awesome idea.

Can someone post pics of the finished job so we can see what it's meant to look like?

Like, for example, how do you fit the cold air 'snorkel' running through the hole so it's sturdily attached to the car?

I'll be doing this when i get a front mount. Will be sweet with a cold air box :(

Edited by R338OY

Hi guys,

ok, i did drill it tiday..guess what...what a mess i made :D , went to supercheap and got hole saw bits, was told its for metal cutting, but it really didnt work tho, it won go thru metal only the drill bit, so what I drew a circle where I want it to be and using just a drill bit, drilled severla holes arround it, then cut with a tin snip hehehe OMG cant belive I put my babe thru that kinda pain...end result is so ugly.....So i dont think I got the right tools...next time hey.... ;)

now got a perfect pipe to put in, coming out of old camry, tomorrow will try to fit it in, but im not sure how to secue it in the hole....and same time thinking of putting an funnel(after cuuting the narrow end part) in front of the pipe to grab more air????.mmmmmmmmmmmm :)

will see how it goes tommow, will let you know..........

post-33178-1203508768_thumb.jpg

post-33178-1203508832_thumb.jpg

post-33178-1203508917_thumb.jpg

its REALLY important that you get one thats designed for metal not wood

Now I know what you mean hhehe.........gosh what a mess I mad hey

oh and make sure you put some sort of filter over each end of the pipe (i used fly wire)

because the inlet is really close to the ground in the front bar you get a lot of crap flying up there

and thats not what you want..

Ya I got already the fly screen thingy, gona fix it tomorrow

Take the time to tidy up that hole, you'll feel better for it!

Get yourself a couple of good quality metal files, you can pick them up at Bunnings or an engineering supplies shop - with the hole that bad you are probably going to want a coarse one to start off with and a smoother one to finish. Some sandpaper too for final prep.

Don't forget to rust proof it too... only costs $10-15 for a can. Recommend the brush on stuff over spray, no hassle with masking and easier to get a good couple of thick coats on.

You could even put a rubber boot around the hole - I used 6mm black vacuum hose on my intercooler hole, slit it open with a knife and siliconed it in. Looks like it was always meant to be there!!

Take the time to tidy up that hole, you'll feel better for it!

Get yourself a couple of good quality metal files, you can pick them up at Bunnings or an engineering supplies shop - with the hole that bad you are probably going to want a coarse one to start off with and a smoother one to finish. Some sandpaper too for final prep.

Don't forget to rust proof it too... only costs $10-15 for a can. Recommend the brush on stuff over spray, no hassle with masking and easier to get a good couple of thick coats on.

You could even put a rubber boot around the hole - I used 6mm black vacuum hose on my intercooler hole, slit it open with a knife and siliconed it in. Looks like it was always meant to be there!!

Ya Gotta do it to make it looks good, ooh no, now I feel so bad.. heheh........all of the above im sure can get from bunnings tomorrow...Cheers mate, lets see how I go with this HOLE :)

damn skykc!

good thread!

i've been trying to do this for a while now! me and my uncle designed a nice cover...

but i need a pipe feed....

so u got that pipe from a camry... HMMMMM

and was it hard to cut that hole?

Ya, I got this pipe from a old camry, its the one that connect from air filter to EFI. As for cuuting a hole I made a big mess as i was using the wrong hole saw. rmebr to get a one that designed for METAL cutting from bunnigs, its like 55-60mm drill bit like $18 I think.

the hole I cut was so ugly as you can see, today I grind it to smooth it out, and treated with rust proof paint (white king), applied two coatings. Still look so shit tho :/ , didnt try it with metal filler, cant bother too muvh, so get the rite tool ya, so u dont need to go thru tha pain I have been ya :rofl:

The desingn I ddi was so doggy, today i didt another one with aluminum .5mm sheet, so now I have aluminuium + heat shield,

will post some pic tomorrow....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...