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Hey everyone,

I'm about to do my first track-day with driver dynamics and I am not too sure about my brake pads on my R33 GTR.

Currently the rear pads are pretty worn in and I have no idea what brake pads its been running since it came from Japan.

It has been advised that I should get some track-day pads for this like: HAWK HT-10, and change the fluid over on the brake's.

It might be a good opportunity to put in the Aus. braided brake lines and remove the Japanese ones too :rofl:

EDIT: found recommended pads sticky, I'm considering the QFM A1.RM.

Should I buy a dedicated track-day pad that I put on and use for track days only? And then remove afterwards again?

Do track-pads need to be bedded in before use? Or can I just use them on the day?

Also do I get some standard DOT4 brake fluid?

I'm not going to be attending track days that often but I don't want to end up into a wall at Sandown because of brake fade.

The brakes appear to be standard with a larger front rotor (I think).

Thanks,

Gareth

Ive always used benedicts ultimates for street and track and never had issues, just alot of brake dust. Had brake fade because the standard fluid boiled. Now have some good dot 5 and havent had an issue.

If your not doing track days all the time, some benedicts, ferodo or similar will be good enough and decent for the pricing.

braided lines will help, but change the pads and the lines first, then bleed brakes and put the dot 5 in :(

If you're willing to swap pads out before a track day and pop your streeters back in afterwards, then do so. It'll cost you less in the long run if you do enough track days to justify it.

Street pads tend to overheat and break down really quickly on the track, killing their life, and track pads are expensive to just commute on and tend to have bad feel and squeal when cold, require activation heat to start working, and cost more.

If you're willing to go as far as working on the brakes, its also quite easy to replace your rotors at the same time so I'd suggest running track rotors too.

Project Mu type NR pads ive found are good for a run around the track.Rated to 850 deg C.

For every day driving i use Project Mu B spec pads.

EDIT:No im not a rep for Project Mu :)

EDIT: found recommended pads sticky, I'm considering the QFM A1.RM.

Yep, they would be the go! They're VERY similar to Race Brakes RB74, they're still useable on the street, whilst good for 780 degrees, which is more than enough for most track days. And cheap at $110 per set.

Also do I get some standard DOT4 brake fluid?

Depends on how much you want to spend and how serious you want to be. Regularly changed Dot 4 fluid should be fine, or else this is what we use and recommends for high performance applications:

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/gsl-ra...rake-fluid.html

If you're running street tyres you should be able to get away with a decent set of street/track pads, IE DS2500 or those QFMs....

If you're running semis then i'd suggest running track pads for trackdays. IE DS3000 or Hawk HT10 etc...

As for fluid, Get some of that Motul RBF600 (5.1), it's cheap enough to use, about 25 bucks at a motorbike store

Thanks for the info, I will have a look around at getting some QFM A1.RM pads or similar. The GTR is running the standard brembo's does anyone know the normal price for these?

There is a groupbuy going on somewhere on here, about $110 a set - bloody cheap!

Depends if he's got the Nissan or Brembo Brakes. If its the Brembo's, then they're $145 a set, and won't be available through the Group Buy as they're exclusive to GSL RallySport...

Also $110-$120 is pretty standard for the A1RM, I really don't know why that's a group buy thread as their isn't any discount for quantities and its not being done like a group buy.

lol as long as you dont go for the PMU D1 pads lol alot of good pads out there but find something with a large heatrange to cover street and track work :(

  • 2 weeks later...

now i've got some conflicting info here.

A1RM = 580 degrees, at the MOST!

Source = guy who developed the pads

He said the A1RM's are NO WHERE NEAR 780 degree's. And considering QFM doesn't have a website, and development as has stopped, i don't know how to check this. And given the price of A1RM's vs RB74's (bout $150 front OR rear, near'ish $300 total) it would explain why the A1RM's are a lot cheaper.

yet, everywhere i google, it comes up with A1RM=780 degree's???? sooooo confused..... the dude who made them, and everyone selling them.....

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