Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

for some reason when i'm driving, windows up and everything. with the aircon on.. i can just smell petrol.... sometimes it drives me rather crazy.

Its not just pure petrol fumes.

My rear window wasn't sealed properly, so i thought it was that, so i sealed that and i still get the smell.

It really bugs me. Everyone complains?

Anyone know where i should be looking to be the source of it?

Thanks in advance.

start from one end of the car and work toward the other. Start at the tank and check every fuel line and right up to the filter and then the injectors.you may need to run the car to get it to smell...but it sounds like a fuel hose may be hardened and brittle thus not sealing properly

Check to see if the rubber strip on the rear edge of you hood is there, some guys remove it or put spacers under the hood hinges... it allows heat to be sucked from the engine bay . The lower pressure that sucks out the heat is also responsible for feeding the plenum just behind the back edge of the hood which in turn feeds the heater box and A/C. Try leaving your A/C on recirculate for a while.

does the exhaust tip finish well past the bottom edge of the rear bar?

I don't think it does.

Check to see if the rubber strip on the rear edge of you hood is there, some guys remove it or put spacers under the hood hinges... it allows heat to be sucked from the engine bay . The lower pressure that sucks out the heat is also responsible for feeding the plenum just behind the back edge of the hood which in turn feeds the heater box and A/C. Try leaving your A/C on recirculate for a while.

I will take a look tomorrow morning, not quite sure what rubber strip but will take a look. By hood, i take it you mean bonnet.

Yeah, i think i have to check around the a/c, but i haven't tried windows up with no a/c.

So you could be right, anything else that could be leaking around the a/c.. or that feeds into the vents?

i had this problem and found that it was to do with the little plastic bit that sits on top of the fuel tank. Its the one which has all 3 fuel hoses coming out off. I had 3 massive cracks in it , changed that and then no mre petrol smell

hey, r33 gtr done 160k, plus my wrx also done 160k, both had the exact same problem, windows up, air con on, raw petrol smell, check the fuel line around the fuel filter, open bonnet while at idle, give the car a few revs (when cold) should be able to see fuel mist.........

Edited by donkey

ijust pulled an r34 apart, and theres quite a few places you could get the petrol fumes, check it's more from the front or back of the car like in the engine bay ( injectors, fuel lines)

if you can smell it fairly strongly in the boot , i would then suggest it's coming from the fuel tank, one area it would leak fairly easily is the fuel lines out the top or connectors as suggested above, but there is also a big seal on the tank were all your fuel lines go in, if this is not positioned correctly fumes would be definately leaking into the cabin, this normally upset if somebody has fitted a hi flow intank fuel pump or repaired the fuel gauge sender etc.

cheers russ

also check your injectors. i just replaced two of mine due to small cracks in the body of the injector which caused a very slow leak and a very strong fuel smell.

:)

Look for fuel stains around your inlet manifold.. Many 32s are getting leaking injectors.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Look in the engine bay at your evap cannister and see if all the lines are plugged into it. Also check fuel return hose config. at petrol tank end.

I believe the AC air intake snorkel is on the passenger side of the firewall, have a look around that also

On one of my old cars, my ac intake was literally sucking the fumes straight out of the petrol tank via loose hose to charcoal cannister - mmmmm nice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...