Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a few things i was hoping some of you might be able to help me on. My rb20 in my silvia is only getting roughly 330klms out of a tank. The tank size is 55L. This was with relatively easy driving etc. Also, the cars idle rises and falls dramatically sometimes at idle. Does anybody have any ideas what i should be looking for as to fixing this problem? All the rb has done to it is a k & n air filter which came off the old engine that was in it. Thanks for your help.

Jase

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20762-rb20-probs/
Share on other sites

Check the idle control valve, or whatever its called, on the back of the plenum. Pull it off and hit it with carby cleaner. They tend to clog up a bit and cause a fluctuating idle.

That economy is pretty bad, I get min 400kms per tank local driving with filter, exhaust, intercooler, boost controller and i don't really drive slow. Up to 530km on longer distance driving.

This is generally taking 53-55L when i fill it up. RB20T aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20762-rb20-probs/#findComment-437744
Share on other sites

I would almost bet my left whatever that its your oxygen sensor. I had the same problem with my car, disconnect it and see if it idles better. When i got a new one, the idle was perfect and a big difference in fuel economy (I had to disconnect the faulty one till i found the new one)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20762-rb20-probs/#findComment-438853
Share on other sites

I think the problem has been solved. My ignition timing so was retarded it wasn't funny. Now it seems to be very conservative on the petrol and is going heaps harder!! Still have the occasional up and down idle tho so i will take that valve off and give it a clean. For all your rb20det people, i peaked power at 7200rpm, does this sound normal??? The dyno i was on was a bit out of whack too cuz i only got 73kw's at the wheels!!! hehe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20762-rb20-probs/#findComment-439254
Share on other sites

Yeah, I had the same problem after my conversion. While doing the conversion, in an effort to work out why I wasn't getting ignition, I mucked around with the crank angle sensor and when I finally got it going, it was retarded so on idle, it would nearly cut out then rise then nearly cut out again, one of the first things I checked was the CAS and this solved the problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20762-rb20-probs/#findComment-447281
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...