Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, There are plenty of threads on tiens but there dosen't seem to be a definitive answer on the difference between aus and jap spec coil overs!

So does anyone know for sure? and can people who actually have the jap spec models in their cars comment on the ride quality because I have a set on hold and am unsure wether to continue with the purchase or redirect and get the aus specs?

I'm sure a lot of people would be interested to know the difference (firm facts! not speculation) and owners personal testomonies (not i know someone)

Any info would be great to help me make my decision :D

Edited by ellie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207661-jap-spec-super-street-tiens/
Share on other sites

i had the aus spec and have been in a car with jap spec. Basically the jap spec has higher spring rates and is firmer then the aus spec ones. if you don't mind a pretty stiff ride go for the jap spec but if you want something a little "softer" then go aus spec.

i had the aus spec and have been in a car with jap spec. Basically the jap spec has higher spring rates and is firmer then the aus spec ones. if you don't mind a pretty stiff ride go for the jap spec but if you want something a little "softer" then go aus spec.

I have the jap specs in my car and cant complain. especially with the electronic controller. drove from sunny coast to canberra just after new years for summernats and that was a bit unpleasant (my back was still sore for 2 or 3 days after we got back) but drive to brissy n back fairly often and theyre fine for that. if most of your driving is highway id probably go the aussie ones but if not go the jap spec for sure.

R32/33/34 Skylines are not intended to be limos, Nissan sets them up with sports oriented suspension from the factory. The standard spring rates are around 3 kg/mm. Knowing the local conditions, aftermarket Australian spring makers upgrade that by 20-25% to allow for some lowering. Hence it is rare to see a Whiteline, Lovells, Kings etc spring rates over 4 kg/mm. So compare that with what you are getting with the Jap spec and make up your own mind what they will be like.

Don't fool yourself into believing that, in order to handle well, a Skyline has to be hard in the suspension. That's simply not the case, you can have ride comfort and great handling at the same time.

Cheers

Gary

I will add its piss easy to get good handling. Hell, i reckon i can get a car to handle well with some basic mods and moderate spend.

If you want grip and croner speed then farked if i know how to do that other then hand over foldign stuff to someone that knows what they are doing :)

Generally, ppl equate slightly firmer suspension wit better "handling" (different to grip) as the car is pointier/dartier.

i'll add you should ditch the super streets and go check out SydneyKids group buy suspension kits :)

Stick to the topic please! There are countless threads that turn into "Sydneykids group buy is the only good set up on a skyline" beat ups. Then people argue back and forth and so on! so, with the up most respect, lets skip all that this time and keep to the topic at hand.

Disclaimer: No disrespect to SK's set up! i have been a passenger and driven his set up many times and it is fantastic! :) I actually have all of his set up, minus springs and struts!

So . . . . .To reiterate: I would really appreciate peoples first hand experiences with them and any technical info?

For example: aus spec are 5kg/mm front and 4kg/mm rear with softened valving but all I can find on jap spec are they are 4kg/mm both front and rear! So how can the jap specs be so much harsher unless the valving is much more aggressive? 4 & 4 info found from nengun, slide, fulcrum etc.

I had intended to pm you troy about what coilovers you have decided to run in your car as i intend on road/motorkhana worthy suspension! I am well aware that stiff doesn't always mean great handling and that precise initial handling response doesn't always mean grip and in turn out right speed. I just wanted to get a thread where someone (me) could reference some specs and first hand accounts on jap spec super street tiens.

I appologise if my intial post was to vague.

I am running Tein RA shocks. I have not bothered to check my spring rate, so cant comment on those as the shocks were revalved with new springs put in them. I am happy with them, but i bet that with a bit more time, development = money they could be better again. But im happy with them as they are at present so will wait until my driving catches the speed of the car before chasing car setup any more.

I chose the RA as you can buy them in good condition for reasonable dollars (approx $1000-1100 delivered) You can get them cheaper if you hunt around and waste many hours of your life on yahoo etc. I purchased my RAs new with no springs etc so worked out well.

Other reasons for chosing the RAs was that they are a nice alloy body with adjustable height platforms so i could easily throw a range of springs at it. The main reason is that for the dollars i was able to get an adjustable height alloy shock body with adjustable damping/rebound....which is readily able to be revalved/rebuilt by a Melbourne workshop who works on my car...so hoped to let his knowledge of Skylines and these shocks short cut my quest for the optimum setup on my car.

So, that is the RA, which are basically the same as the Tein RE shocks. Looking at results people i know have got out of the Flex and Super Streets with std valving just new springs, then i have to say if you can get them at the right dollars you need to have a hard look at them.

The newer Monoflex and Aus Super Street would naturally be better again then the older Flex so woudl be interesting to see how a friend woudl go in his car that currently runs Flex?!?!?!

I think at the end of the day you can get very good results from a number of shocks provided the alignment is right, ride heights are right and the shock is running a sensible spring rate that suits the valving.

So many ways to skin a cat....i think with suspension its easy to spend lots of money for small percentage improvement in performance, i mean im not interested in spending double the money to gain 0.5 seconds over a single lap. Over a race distance it may be different with regards to how the tyres last and shocks perform with regards to consistancy...but its just not worth it as i only get 2-3 flat laps before temps on my std motor become a concern or i back off as i hide from the EPA guy for noise :down:

cheers for the reply Troy, good info!

I had thought about going the flex route but was being realistic with my intended use and decided to scale it back a bit! I have riden in a couple of aus spec cars (both with no other suspension mods) and found them to be a really nice compliant ride. The R33 felt way too soft even after corner wieghting etc. and the silvia felt much better than standard gear but felt almost like the valving didn't match the spring rates?

It was a comfy ride and absorbed shocks very well but felt as if the rebound was way to soft causing an almost bouncey feel in reaction to a shock.

(I am very aware that a skyline and a silvia are worlds away in suspension characteristics and these are only my oppinions!)

I understand it is a physical impossibility with in the realm of a forum to explain how firm a ride the jap specs are. I was really more interested in how people actually felt about them by the seat of their pants?

Enjoyable? Too firm? good shock and spring rate match etc.

Cheers for your replies

I have had the jap spec "super streets" in my 34 for more than a year now and can't be happier with it...I've had super rock hard jap coilovers before and I can tell you these are nothing like that at all...slightly firmer ride but still maintaining comfort and handling...

I have recommended these to a few other 34 members and they have had positive experiences as well.

Only difference between the jap and aus spec "super streets" is the valving and also you get the warranty from the aus spec ones...other than that they are identical in spring rates.

Don't get confused by the amount of ppl on here quoting "jap spec teins" as opposed to "jap spec tein super streets" its like comparing apples to oranges.

i will add my 2cents :D

im running tein circuit master Type RS, with 10kg F/R spring rate. i currently have the damper and rebound both set to soft. Atm i'm back to daily driving my r33 and find the ride to be firm but still comfortable, on the odd occasion i go over a large bump in the road it is hard.

My father drives the car and has commented that the ride is alot better compare to my old setup (d2 with very large spring rate above 14kg) and that he doesn't mind driving the car now because it is comfortable :(

don't know if this help you but i through i add my opinion :(

I was actually informed today by a friend of mine that his S15 that i had a couple of rides in actually had the jap specs in it so from my memory = They were much better matched and road really nicely. Got a little bit dicked around on delivery but should arrive tommorrow or the next day at the latest!

will post if anyone cares too know?

I'm finding mine. . . .NOT F#@KING HERE YET! I was told that they would arrive on the 26th-27th and have practically been met with a wall of silence and 3 failed promised delivery dates since then by a trader off this forum who shall remain nameless at this stage! Supposedly I will be getting them on monday arvo apparently and I haven't forgotten this thread and will post my findings once I've had a little time with them!

I'll also have to get some scales off a mate and set up the corner wieghts before I get a complete view of how they perform for the relatively mild cost

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...