Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yer. Im a bit lost now. Should I still get the 265/35/18 front and back this week.

Or should I look into the rims size and all that some more??

And how come Supadan's tyre sizes have never given him this problem? Is his rolling diameter the same on all four corners??

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yer. Im a bit lost now. Should I still get the 265/35/18 front and back this week.

Or should I look into the rims size and all that some more??

And how come Supadan's tyre sizes have never given him this problem? Is his rolling diameter the same on all four corners??

Why don't you just do what has been suggested, pull the fuse on the 4wd system then go for a drive. This will tell you if it is the problem or not. :D

As a rule you should use the same tyres front and rear on a GT-R. There is no good reason, none at all, for using different sizes.

As for Supadan well chances are his ATTESSA clutch is fkd. Like a lot of old GT-R's.

Thats nearly the same as what deadlygtr32 had!!!! Thats a bit confusing...

deadly had 245/40, supadan has 235/40. It seems to be enough to make no difference to ATTESSA.

Still, you can save a lot of grief by fitting the same size tyres on the same size rims on all 4 corners.

  • 2 months later...

hey guys...

further to this topic.

after changing my tyres...n got the 4wd switch back on

it started running properly...however after going past 4-5k revs...theres a slight jolt which probably only the driver will feel..and the torque readings on the guage r quite bizzare at times on 1st n 2nd gear.

and also when trying to reverse... the car is getting stuck (locking up) and not moving back...its like something is lockin front wheels from reversing...and this only happenz when im reversing by steering left or right...it reverses in a straight line fine!! The oil is at the right level in my front diff and transfer case!!

my mechanic rekons the front diff transfer case is fu*kd...And even if it is...did it get stuffed because of my tires being the wrong rolling diameter etc..

what you guys rekon?

Thanks for your help!!!

and also when trying to reverse... the car is getting stuck (locking up) and not moving back...its like something is lockin front wheels from reversing...and this only happenz when im reversing by steering left or right...it reverses in a straight line fine!! The oil is at the right level in my front diff and transfer case!!
I had a similar thing happen in my GTS4. I can't remember exactly what it was caused by. It was either some sort of fault in the TPS, or it was a poor connection on the alternator.

The ATTESA also activates because it senses some sort of G-force, either through acceleration or cornering. The sensors are located under the centre armrest / glovebox.

so u rekon the front diff is not stuffed??

And also i forgot to mention...when takin conors and accelerating..the car jerks and makes a slight knockin noise..which is coming from the front wheels..

I just want to know that if my original problem of running the car wid inccorrect rolling diameter tyres etc...has caused this problem.

I don't think the original problem has damaged the diff. The R32 seems to be fairly forgiving in this respect. (But, I'm no expert)

The knocking might be something like a failing CV joint. Have you checked all the suspension bushes?

When the ATTESSA pump was replaced, did they bleed the system correctly? And the correct fluid level in the reservoir is checked with IGN = ON.

On a slightly different tack, how old is the battery? Because Skylines are notoriously sensitive to crappy battery voltages (from crappy old batteries).

Yea iit was bled properly with all correct fluid levels etc.

And the battery is fairly new..only a 5 months old.

its just not only knocking...the car jerks aswell...

my mechanics checked the cv joints boots etc etc..and theyre all fine!!!

The only reason im thinkin that my original problem could stuff up the front diff/transfer is from anotha topic i waz reading under "Drivetrain and Transmission" form with title ""R32 Gtr Front Diff Torque"". Sounds very similar to mine, and mentions in there that by drivin with incorrect rolling diamter can stuff up the transfer case as the it is running all the time, when its not meant to.. and doin so constantly overheats and wears out the clutch plates in the transfer case.

I had some issues with my ATTESSA system.

Turns out the front diff was stuffed.

As were the propshaft uni joints.

And the clutch pack.

And a heap of bearings.

Cost: $3k+ to fix it properly.

Availability of parts: Ex Japan at two weeks (average) except you need two goes because the ATTESSA clutch pack needs a final shim which Nissan Australia don't stock.

First thing to do is to disengage the AWD system & see if this changes the problem.

but the bottom line is you need to take it to a mechanic & get it up on a hoist.

Check the front diff for oil condition & backlash.

Check the front drive shafts & particularly the CV joints. Also the wheel bearings etc.

Check the propshaft.

For my 10 cents worth if the above shows nothing then it sounds like an issue in the transfer case. Which is a pain in the arse to find & fix. Take it to a good/informed/intelligent mechanic & don't expect a cheap bill.

holy F*CK...ok thanks for all that info djr81.

But can you tell me if all the above uve stated can or couldv been caused by my orginal issue of this topic..of drivin on tyres with a different rolling diameter... i need to confirm that. thanks.

I would highly doubt that different wheel/tyre size could damage any of the mentioned driveline components. Check for metal on the magnetic drain plugs. That will tell a pretty good story of the condition.

In my experience, stick with the same size wheels/tyres on a gtr. Although i have heard of people doing that purposly, something about giving more front torque earlier?!?

It will give more front tourque earlier but as the transfer case isnt desighned to work for prolonged periods of time it overheats and wears out. It can happen fairly fast to if its only a small % of power going to the front and not 50/50 as the clutches in the transfer case are sliping to achive that, with 50/50 they would be locked together and not wearing as much

The transfer case has a total of seven clutch plates in it plus the equivalent number of stator plates. When put back together there is supposed to be a small 0.2 mm to 0.5mm clearance when measured as per the manual. When they wear, however, this number can get to over 1mm or worse. This obviously affects the functioning of the 4WD system. You can't tell (other than by seeing how much the car oversteers) how bad it is without pulling the whole gearbox/transfer case apart.

The point I was making was start at the outside at the front & work in. So check brakes, wheel bearings, cv joints, diff etc etc. Go through the system & eliminate the parts from being an issue. Then do the gearbox/transfer case. This is the bit that costs.

thats what im scared off... The costs. The deal is that when I got tyres to start with. The tyre shop made me put on those tyres even though i told em to put the same tyres as back to the front. And they said it was unroadworthy etc etc. because the tyres were 265's.

From then on the joltin started and since then the 4wd got fu48kd UP!!!! and i changed the 4wd pump and all.. and made up change my rear tyres. The tyre ppl covered all my expenses, coz it was theyre fault. For the 2 new dunlop tyres and 4wd pump and labour.

Now I want to get them to cover my costs for this transfer case or diff, whatever the problem is of my 4WD....But i Need hard prrooof that they're tyre f*k*rz did stuff up my 4wd. To get all my costs covered.

Cheers

It will give more front tourque earlier but as the transfer case isnt desighned to work for prolonged periods of time it overheats and wears out. It can happen fairly fast to if its only a small % of power going to the front and not 50/50 as the clutches in the transfer case are sliping to achive that, with 50/50 they would be locked together and not wearing as much

Yeah i figured it probably would trick the system into thinking there was traction loss in the front.

The Attessa Ets system does work gradually, its designed to operate in a progressive manner. Its not all or nothing. Its anything from no front torque to upto 50% front torque. So what your saying doesnt sound right to me.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...