Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

there is something about 4 turbos & 16 cylinders :)

Just strap 4x Evos together. Cheaper and more powerful.

Plus it's 16-wheel drive. No cheese eating surrender monkey can do that with a VW :)

I think one of the problems is Ni that the P1 cars often end up racking up 50,000km's in 6 months and they are usually HARD km's - so I guess many of these classics just aren't up to that kind of abuse. They probably need something new they can buy and belt around for a few months and then flog off (hence the high car turn over).

Snowy gets 10 out of 10.

Being new (or near new), all our cars are covered by warranty and 24hr roadside assist. Something we NEED to have for 'just in case'.

Some of the other clubs around the world run both classic classics and modern classics - but it's not something we will do any time soon.

That said - Mustang wise, we can look at the new GT-500 Shelbys

Sam - we asked members if they wanted a 599 or LP640, and they chose the Ferrari.

That's not to say we wont get one though - just not right now.

They chose the 599 over the LP640...oh noes....although I guess the average age of most of the members answers the big why question :(

yes of course...

New GT500s are pretty dam hot too tho... same with the new camaro (when its released) and challenger SRT8 but im assuming it wont be viable as there isnt a RHD conversion available

my brother in law has a mighty boy ute if u wanna buy it for P1 l337ness... its pretty sick... red with a thick black stripe through the middle (side on not like racing stripes), polished beetle wheel caps with red steelies and whitewall tyres! Wont have to worry too much about petrol either it only uses about $15 worth for 2 weeks and seeing as the budget is only $500k im sure we can drop the price down for you james to around the $480 mark... mates rates

Interesting that you blokes all picked hot sport cars for the top 10.

I'd have thrown in a Mercedes-Benz ML63 AMG, a Maserati GranTurismo and maybe even a BMW X6 as a low points consuming weekday runaround.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...