Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice work, I intend on making on of these, my question is ; What else from around the house can I use to heat the perspex

$15 heat gun from bunnings, otherwise blowtorch & wrap the perspex in tinfoil to stop it burning

  • 2 weeks later...

toddlls idea isnt bad, but I found it was much easier seeing where the perspex was that I was melting.

BTW, I tried a normal hair drier and it didnt work :)

honestly, at bunnings I bought a cheapy heatgun for $12-15 bucks and it worked a charm. within 30 seconds it was almost like honey.

Gl with it.

Adam

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

your welcome guys,

also turael, i'll try to get some pics up over the next few days, cant believe its been in there for almost 2 years! But i can tell u now, run over it with a wet cloth and dry... still looks like the day i made it.... and I will prove very soon.... Not to mention i have taken it out to work on things and rested tools on it heaps of times!

Not a bad idea, the Perspex looks good. I made my own also, although I went a different way. Is yours actually fastened to the body? or just sort of slots into place?.

either way looks good, Top job.

I must say after 2 years it still looks great!

I was thinking of making a hole in the top and make a fibreglass tube from the snorkel into the top.

Will post pics when I'm done!

  • 4 weeks later...

OK first up i gotta say that the heatshield looks awesome.

BUT... I have to ask...

You used perspex to make it from (I guess it's good coz you can still see the pod somewhat), and you used a "heat gun" to shape the "heatshield"....in other words since perspex changes shape with heat, how hot does the engine bay have to get before it melts??

very hot dude, like yeh if u placed the pespex on the exhaust manifold it would melt... but if you look it up on wiki:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly(methyl_methacrylate) its melting point is 130-140 degs celcius

and the heat gun was direct heat, whereas you'll find the heatsheilds normally just suffer from indirect heat like heatsoak from a hot motor...

Adam >_<

  • 2 weeks later...

Im keen on doing something like this for summer, oh and wicked job btw.

Does anyone know of a more heat resistant material to use? maybe some aluminium sheet metal with heat sinks around lol.. a little over the top?

Also have you had any problems with police? or is it perfectly legal?

thanks.

If anyone has some air temperature sensing equipment I could borrow to give some results, or if someone can point me in the direction of where to buy one within the $200ish mark i'll get some results.

I bought a fairly cheap 'automotive' multimeter from dick smith ot radio parts a while back which also came with a K type thermocouple or what ever they are called. You can plug it in and run the wire to the air box etc. Unfortunately you don't get two sensors two compare at one time but you do get a multimeter out of it too. Maybe one of your mates wants one too and then you'd have two readings?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...