Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got my r33 in june of last year, thought it was working sweet after getting it checked by a emchanic before buying it. Seems like it was the biggets mistake of my life because it just doesnt run properly and everything i do ends up solving one problem but creating another. Nothing has gone my way with this car i must be cursed or something.

For reference the car is a 1996 s2 r33 gtst. Only mods are apexi pod and just recently a trust pe2 catback.

Yesterday a mate and I adjusted 2 exhaust hangers to get the exhaust sitting in a better position since the lip on the mid muffler was hitting the tailshaft (not often at all, but often enough to warrant the adjustment).

Anyway after doing that we took it for a test drive and it was fine, i got back to my house and i started to hear a very high pitched whine, kinda quiet but noticeable. The car then started running "lumpy". For lack of a better term, ill just say it kinda sounds like a rexy when i rev it a little. Not good at all. The car shakes, feels and sounds really lumpy.

We then checked the plugs (which are like 4-5months old), regapped them to 0.8 from the previous 1.1mm because it was popping alot but nothing changed. Still sounds rough.

I REALLY wanted to do everything myself or with a mate to save money cant afford a good workshop right now. However if i or anyone else cant work it out i may just have to save a little and get it checked out.

Any ideas?

Edited by delljit
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208516-help-my-skyline-sounds-like-a-rexy/
Share on other sites

everything should be plugged in properly, the coilpacks looked fine too (no cracks etc)

we also didnt touch the coils/plugs until after the problem started, is it just a oincidence that it may have decided to shit itself then?

check for leaks,

mine had a leak between the engine and exhaust manifold cause the manifold bent. Sounded like a v8 haha, and shook etc.

And also ya said it ran sweet and only thing that you have done recently is exhaust.

So check around ya exhaust manifold, turbo, intercooler pipes, dump exhaust etc.

Make sure all bolts are tight and havent come loose.

I also had a fun time recently my plenum warped, so i know how it runs when theres a leak there too haha. #$%$#

check for leaks,

mine had a leak between the engine and exhaust manifold cause the manifold bent. Sounded like a v8 haha, and shook etc.

And also ya said it ran sweet and only thing that you have done recently is exhaust.

So check around ya exhaust manifold, turbo, intercooler pipes, dump exhaust etc.

Make sure all bolts are tight and havent come loose.

I also had a fun time recently my plenum warped, so i know how it runs when theres a leak there too haha. #$%$#

If thats the case i dont think i can check anything out myself.

Would i be doing any damage if i drove it to a workshop?

One last thing, when we took the plugs out they were black as a motherbollockser, im using ngk iridiums. Carefully cleaned them before regapping to .8 and putting them back in. Car still pops though.

you would be able to check all the bolts yourself on exhaust, turbo, intercooler pipes etc. not hard.

if it is an air leak, wouldnt suprise me that your spark plugs are clogged with shit if its running rich.

Also check ya oxygen sensor. I remember my plugs were screwed from running rich, and oxygen sensor wasnt working.

I could be way off from what the issue is, but there is no harm in checking those things first.

if its a exhaust leak, most likely its on the bottom back half like u did with the cat back.

jack the car up, and look under there. start the car up, and have a smell, and check for visual leaks.

then feel your way around the flanges to check for leaks. odds are that u have broken a sealed gasket when u twisted the exhaust.. no big deal.

finally. start the car, pop the bonnet and listen, if there is no loud exhaust noise u have not broken the seals in the bay... then check the rest of the exhaust underneath.. if it is louder than the noise from the muffler=exhaust leak

i fail to see how it could be anything else if u have only touched the exhaust!!

i checked for exhaust leaks with soapy water on the flanges under the car, everything seems airtight. guess im just gonna have to savea couple pay checks and take it somewhere good, im not really the mechanic-type as much as i'd like to be.

To check for exhaust leaks, whilst you're under the car, get a mate to completely block the exhaust tip or tips (unsure if you have more then one)

If the car is cold, he'll manage to do it with his hand. but most of the time, use a rag.

You'll then hear the leaks ALOT clearer.

When I blew my flange between cat and dump pipe apart it sounded like a tractor... A quick tighten and a heap of exhaust cement, and it was perfect.

By twisting the exhaust, you've most likely broken an exhaust seal/gasket. It's easy to do, nothing major to worry about, just fix it now.

On a small leak I had, I also had the V8 sound as it wasn't a large leak.

if it sounds like a rexy then its not running on 6 cyl.

I would disconnect one coil pack at a time while its running and when you do if the car feels like it runs rougher when its unplugged then that coil pack is OK.

if you disconnect one and the engine does not change the way it runs at all then thats the cyl that your having the problem with.

Take that coil pack out and swap it with another cyl and then start the car and unplug the cyl that you put the coil pack into, if there is no change again then you know you have a dud coil pack.

I have some series 2 coil packs that i can sell if your interested.

ill give that a go after uni today in the arvo

so i basically have to do the following:

remove the pipes that are in the way

undo and remove the black cover

re-connect all the pipes

start car

disconnect 1 coil at a time, listening for a change in engine sound

if i find one that makes no change in engine sound, stop the car, swap it with another coil and see if the new cylinder is failing?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...