Jump to content
SAU Community

[group Buy] Acpt Carbon Fibre Tailshafts Any Model! $1400us


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 717
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There is a sample on the GTR UK site...in short loud :(

I'd be interested in a 4inch Ti exhaust. From memory the Big Trust Ti is a track exhaust so it has no facility for a cat. You'd have to cut it down and put a flange on. Dont Sunline make a 4inch Ti with cat?

Going to TAS in January but a cat back inst really carry on...even in business lol

I am in for a 4'' Ti exhaust of any brand but I reckon Amuse could do the R1000 in 100mm inlet for us if we get the numbers.

:P

I have an Amuse R1 (R1000 is the R1 + front pipes) and it is pretty bloody loud.

I certainly would NOT put it on a daily driver :)

Hello everyone,

Was ment to be happening this week. i did get an email from Sts, about needing more money since the Aud/Usd has fallen out since the order was placed..

this however i think should only be paid on the Last deposit i made, $10480 there was around a 7-10c drop which i think makes up 700 or so dollars.. Sts said he was to do some calculations.

if we should be even paying this at all. since they (Sts) stepped in and changed it to Aud. and i was quoted 1400Aud per shaft..

tho at the end of the day. we're still getting a huge discount on what we have bought, so whatever way this swings, i dont mind.

The shafts were ment to be ready now and shipping this week.. tho i have not herd anything as of yet, it is a bit slow back and forth with Me to Sts to the Us.

If anyone can find out, how were we looking around mid june for the usd/aud conversion??

Will keep everyone posted in what becomes of this..

Andrew

Edited by Angus Smart
and i was quoted 1400Aud per shaft..

You answered your own question. You were quoted $1400AUD so that's the price. It is not your problem the dollar moved. It is the supplier's responsibility to allow for currency movements, anticipate movement given the length of time needed to make the shafts, and if necessary absorb losses in their margins. I'm sure if the dollar went up we wouldn't be getting a further discounted price.

willo is right, they made an agreement of $1400AUD per shaft and that was the major incentive in creating this group buy. Can't change the price after receival of initial funds then try to whore money due to change in exchange rate. Could of gone either way for them, they could of lost money if our dollar got stronger than june'july figures and i would guarantee that they would not reimburse our funds if that happened. You stick to your guns! $1400AUD was the agreement and thats what it should be kept at. The agreement time was made at that time (June) at the agreed value of $1400AUD no echange rate calculations were incorporated therefor the inception of the contract stands at that value, especially if you paid a deposit of acceptance of the offer in the agreement which is obviously apparent, as you sent the deposits in that month.

Edited by Dr R

Also, if another company has come in to play with trying to control figures and demand extra funds, it is the responsibility of the initial agreeing party with the initial offer of $1400AUD to pay the difference, not the consumer...

Yeah this is what i figure, fair enough if we were dealing direct with acpt i probably would have done the same thing myself. tho i am sure i would have sent the final deposit alot quicker than the time stuffing about with the Aussie distributor.

i will see what i can do.. i dont really want to have to pay more since it isnt really my problem since they stepped in.

Hi Andrew.

That is correct $1,400.00 in Australian dollars delivered, not US Dollars. I can arrange for these to be delivered individually to each buyer.

We need 5 to get that price, but 7 is even better. If we had 10, I could ask for a bit more to be shaved off.

thats a cutting from the original email.

That's absolute bullsh1t.

Either they :

1. honour the quoted price and deliver the goods, or

2. you can escalate to the ACCC (if you can be bothered), or

3. they can refund my money and be stuck with multiple carbon shafts

Either way, I'm either going to get my shaft for the quoted price, or my money back.

I don't play well when held to ransom like this :3some:

I agree,

so i really have 13 people who were quoted 1400, and will only pay 1400. there was no mention about currency rates in any of the emails.

i've not had a reply from him yet so i am still waiting.

BTW...

Thanks HEAPS for organising this group buy Andrew.

I've been on your end of many, many situations like this when organising group purchases and it certainly is no fun when things don't go smoothly. I think we all understand that none of the delays or this latest................ speed bump is your fault.

Thanks again mate! :)

Yeah tiz a bit shit really... wasnt the only thing i have been waiting to get charged for from the us, ordered my bolts etc for engine rebuild a month or so ago, and still waiting to be charged.. wish they did it a while ago... but oh well!

\

this i am sure we wont have to pay since we were never told about exchange rates.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...